[How-To] FORScan Audio/Speaker Mods

[71to21-2DR]

@RagnarKon, or others...can you please verify something for me?

1. Added Focal 6.5 Speakers in kick panels and tweeters in the dash.
2. Added SSV Pods in the rear with 6.5 Focal Performance Coaxial.

No amp, no sub yet. Factor amp and sub are non-functional. When I made these changes, it seems like there is less power than the settings for the 4 inch speakers...

EQ Settings - ACM 727-01-02 CHANGED

• xxYY-xxxx-xxxx
  • 00 = EQ Off
  • 01 = EQ On (High-pass filter on the rear pods)

Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01

• xxYx-xxxx-xxxx - Driver Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers LEFT ALONE
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 1 - Tweeter
  • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • 3 - No Speaker (ACM disable)
• xxxY-xxxx-xxxx - Passenger Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers LEFT ALONE
  • 3 - Speaker
  • 7 - Tweeter
  • B - Speaker & Tweeter
  • F - No Speaker
• xxxx-Yxxx-xxxx - Passenger Rear Pod Speaker CHANGED
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 1 - Tweeter
  • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • 3 - No Speaker
• xxxx-xYxx-xxxx - Driver Rear Pod Speaker & Subwoofer CHANGED
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 2 - Speaker & Sub
  • 4 - Tweeter
  • 6 - Tweeter & Sub
  • 8 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • A - Speaker, Tweeter, & Sub
  • C - No speaker
  • E - Sub only

I did all this too. But with Kicker speakers And now it sounds better, with all of your settings

but now I want to hook up a 10 inch power sub down firing woofer do I hook it to the speaker outputs on the 200 kicker key?

And does it matter if I hook it to the door speaker outputs or the rear pods now, if the EQS off?

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[71to21-2DR]

Thanks!

Theoretically, you will get the most amount of dynamic range by setting it to Speaker/Tweeter. BUT, I was playing with it this past weekend, and I will say that I didn't really notice a difference. I suspect the 200.4 is masking any change that I would otherwise normally notice.

Feel free to play around with it though. @ILoveToDrive was playing around with it a few weeks ago and there was a noticeable difference to him between Speaker and the Speaker/Tweeter setting.

If you fade to rear, and change speaker to speaker/tweeter I notice a lot of difference. At least with the key 200.4 installed.

I was wondering… though..
If I add a powered sub to my 22’ base 6 speaker setup. Do I need to change from 8 to A? Even though Mine is a 6 speaker only setup?
And. Do I tap in to the speaker outputs on the Key 200. Amp?
Or the Head unit?
also… since the EQ is off now in Forscan, do I tap into the rear speaker wires on the Key amp?

Thanks
Getting a 10” PowerBass Down firing 175 watt powered sub FYI
Rick

 

[RagnarKon]

If I add a powered sub to my 22’ base 6 speaker setup. Do I need to change from 8 to A? Even though Mine is a 6 speaker only setup?

If you have a 2021-2022 changing it from an 8 to A doesn't do anything.

If you have a 2023 (and presumably later), changing it to A will turn on the subwoofer line-level output wires that pop out in the passenger-side rear panel, which makes adding a subwoofer VERY easy.

And. Do I tap in to the speaker outputs on the Key 200. Amp?
Or the Head unit?

The "right" way to do it would be to buy a line output converter like the AudioControl LC5i Pro. All four outputs from the head unit would be sent into the LC5i Pro. And the LC5i Pro would feed both the Kicker Key 200.4 and the subwoofer.

But obviously that adds cost. So the cheaper way would be just to splice into the into head unit's cabling that is feeding the Kicker Key 200.4. If you go that route, you may want to consider adding a AudioControl AC-LGD between the head unit and the subwoofer just to clean up the signal a bit.

You can also splice into the speaker cabling coming out of the Kicker Key 200.4, but then you have the Kicker amp impacting the overall signal. I personally wouldn't go that route, because every time you adjust the Kicker Key 200.4, you now will also have to adjust the subwoofer.

also… since the EQ is off now in Forscan, do I tap into the rear speaker wires on the Key amp?

If you do decide to tap into the speakers... in my opinion the kick panel speakers are significantly easier to get to than the rear pod speakers. But it doesn't really matter I suppose.

I will say that on many Fords, the warning chimes, phone calls, etc. are all played out of the front speakers only. Honestly I don't know if the same is true for the Bronco. But if you tap into the rear speakers your subwoofer may not play the lower frequencies related to phone calls/chimes/whatever.

 

[71to21-2DR]

If you have a 2021-2022 changing it from an 8 to A doesn't do anything.

If you have a 2023 (and presumably later), changing it to A will turn on the subwoofer line-level output wires that pop out in the passenger-side rear panel, which makes adding a subwoofer VERY easy.

The "right" way to do it would be to buy a line output converter like the AudioControl LC5i Pro. All four outputs from the head unit would be sent into the LC5i Pro. And the LC5i Pro would feed both the Kicker Key 200.4 and the subwoofer.

But obviously that adds cost. So the cheaper way would be just to splice into the into head unit's cabling that is feeding the Kicker Key 200.4. If you go that route, you may want to consider adding a AudioControl AC-LGD between the head unit and the subwoofer just to clean up the signal a bit.

You can also splice into the speaker cabling coming out of the Kicker Key 200.4, but then you have the Kicker amp impacting the overall signal. I personally wouldn't go that route, because every time you adjust the Kicker Key 200.4, you now will also have to adjust the subwoofer.

If you do decide to tap into the speakers... in my opinion the kick panel speakers are significantly easier to get to than the rear pod speakers. But it doesn't really matter I suppose.

I will say that on many Fords, the warning chimes, phone calls, etc. are all played out of the front speakers only. Honestly I don't know if the same is true for the Bronco. But if you tap into the rear speakers your subwoofer may not play the lower frequencies related to phone calls/chimes/whatever.

Thanks for answering my questions!

I think I’m gonna go to the route that you said with the AudioControl AC-LGD filter, but it looks like something I can add later real easy.
My 200 key amp is right below the steering wheel so I can just drop it down real easy.
so which lines should I tap into then on the inputs?
the amp 2 or amp 1
The amp I’m getting has the high pass wire plug also.
In addition to RCA jacks. FYI
Thanks so much!
This is the only thing I hate about my bronco is the crappy stereo system even with kicker speakers and Key amp. It still sounds funky to me getting my wife’s Tacoma with the JBL system and then I just want to keep her truck.!!! Lol!

 

[RagnarKon]

Thanks for answering my questions!

I think I’m gonna go to the route that you said with the filter, but it looks like something I can add later real easy.
My 200 key amp is right below the steering wheel so I can just drop it down real easy.
so which lines should I tap into then on the inputs?
the amp 2 or amp 1
The amp I’m getting has the high pass wire plug also.
In addition to RCA jacks. FYI
Thanks so much!
This is the only thing I hate about my bronco is the crappy stereo system even with kicker speakers in the Chi amp. It still sounds funky to me getting my wife’s Tacoma with the JBL system and then I just want to keep her truck.!!! Lol!

It depends how you wired it, but if you happened to use the Plug-n-Play kits... most of those use Amp 1 for the front speakers, and Amp 2 for the rear speakers. I would splice off of the front speakers personally.

 

[71to21-2DR]

It depends how you wired it, but if you happened to use the Plug-n-Play kits... most of those use Amp 1 for the front speakers, and Amp 2 for the rear speakers. I would splice off of the front speakers personally.

Yes PNP.
Older one( hot wire, wired in plug, not Battery.
I just wired it standard so it’s not by amped
4 in front on 1, pods on 2

 

[2022 base]

I read on another post that the "speaker/tweeter" setting is 2ohm...is that confirmed? I am adding a 5 channel amp looking for full range flat eq @4ohm output from the base audio system on all 4 channels. Would I set them all to "speaker" for that result?

thanks

 

[RagnarKon]

I read on another post that the "speaker/tweeter" setting is 2ohm...is that confirmed? I am adding a 5 channel amp looking for full range flat eq @4ohm output from the base audio system on all 4 channels. Would I set them all to "speaker" for that result?

thanks

Don't know for sure.

On Ford vehicles whenever you see a "Speaker/Tweeter" setup from the factory, it's almost always a speaker and a tweeter connected in parallel (2 ohm config). The "Speaker" config is usually just a mid-range speaker connected in a 4 ohm config.

Whether that setting actually changes the impedance of the channel output or not... can't say. I could certainly find out with the right equipment, but I don't own that equipment, and the local community college wouldn't let me take their gear off their property (and yes I asked).

 

[2022 base]

Don't know for sure.

On Ford vehicles whenever you see a "Speaker/Tweeter" setup from the factory, it's almost always a speaker and a tweeter connected in parallel (2 ohm config). The "Speaker" config is usually just a mid-range speaker connected in a 4 ohm config.

Whether that setting actually changes the impedance of the channel output or not... can't say. I could certainly find out with the right equipment, but I don't own that equipment, and the local community college wouldn't let me take their gear off their property (and yes I asked).

Thanks for the reply. I just want full range to the LOC inputs, not sure if it matters about the ohm. I can simply try both "speaker" and "speaker/tweeter" and check results.

 

[2022 base]

Question. I am trying to use forscan today to make changes to rear and when I change the values and write I get a warning message that check sum is not correct. Is that normal?

Update! It worked I have full range to rear out

 

[dadjoke]

Second Edit: I don't know why or what, but I work in IT so i know sometimes you just try again? That worked!

Now I get to troubleshoot why my BRAND NEW kicker is rumbling like it's blown

Question. I am trying to use forscan today to make changes to rear and when I change the values and write I get a warning message that check sum is not correct. Is that normal?

Update! It worked I have full range to rear out

Hey All, got the same error as this poster, but also...my volume knob now only says 18-phone and i have NO audio signal to speak of.

additionally, I don't seem to be able to reload the old information, it says it's already done- but the sound didnt come back on, still persistent issue with the 18-phone volume (thankfully nobody called me while i was in there)

I watched @RagnarKon 's video.....fifteen times? I did EXACTLY what was shown, and ended up with different results than...everyone? including that forscan cheat sheet?

I'm sick today so I shouldn't have gone near it, but i'm so close to having this stereo wrapped up...can anybody help with guidance?

Edit - was just adding full speaker sound to rear in the ACM module

 

[redone17]

I’ve been running the Memphis MJP6 in the kicker and rear for a while now and on some tracks I get a bit of a rattle/vibration from the rear set. I even take them out of the pods and the cone itself is just giving off this low quality distortion.

Re-run DSP? If so, should I run it with the rear gain at 0 or at the slightly adjusted state?

Is that my problem? Should the gain just remain at 0? I wanted to push a little extra to the rear soundscape.

Should I reset the Forscan settings to make it tweeter only? Seems like they will be underutilized.

300hz blockers? Wouldn’t that do the same thing as tweeter setting?

It’s been an on-going battle - sometimes it’s clear as day - but, some tracks - certain frequencies just get distorted. The same speakers in the kicker panel potentially have more bass going through them and sound fine.

I thought it was just some plastic rattle or the pod cover - but, it’s not.

Overall super happy with the warmth of the Memphis speakers.

Any advice from more experienced folks in audio sound is appreciated.

 

[marsdenmike]

Looking for some advice. I have read through this whole forum and found it very helpful as I am very new to any of this. I have a 2023 Heritage. My plan is...

Replace the dash and pod speakers with Kicker SK40 speakers
Keep the kick panel speakers as is.
Get a Ford fusion amp and a Kicker sub to replace the sup/amp delete

All the videos and writes ups about how to replace those speakers are pretty straightforward and helpful. My question is around the Forscan.

1. After I replace the dash speakers do I want to change that setting from speaker/tweeter to speaker or leave it alone?
2. For the pod speakers what is the best setting?
3. Do I turn the EQ on or off?
4. For the amp/sup I assume I will have to activate those?

 

[RagnarKon]

1. After I replace the dash speakers do I want to change that setting from speaker/tweeter to speaker or leave it alone?

Leave it alone.

2. For the pod speakers what is the best setting?

Set it to "Tweeter" since they are still 4-inch speakers. If you upgraded to 6.5-inch it should be set to "Speaker" or "Speaker/Tweeter"

3. Do I turn the EQ on or off?

If you are not installing an aftermarket amplifier, you should leave the EQ on.

4. For the amp/sup I assume I will have to activate those?

Yes

---

All of this really means you'll just have to change one setting (listed below). Red should be the factory setting, green should be the setting you change it to.

• xxxx-xYxx-xxxx - Driver Rear Pod Speaker & Subwoofer
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 2 - Speaker & Sub
  • 4 - Tweeter
  • 6 - Tweeter & Sub
  • 8 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • A - Speaker, Tweeter, & Sub
  • C - No speaker
  • E - Sub only

And to set expectation... the upgrade you have planned should give a small amount of low-end through the subwoofer, and the highs should be MUCH more clear than they are now. Some might say the highs are too high, but you'll have to see what you think when you get there.

 

[marsdenmike]

Leave it alone.

Set it to "Tweeter" since they are still 4-inch speakers. If you upgraded to 6.5-inch it should be set to "Speaker" or "Speaker/Tweeter"

If you are not installing an aftermarket amplifier, you should leave the EQ on.

Yes

---

All of this really means you'll just have to change one setting (listed below). Red should be the factory setting, green should be the setting you change it to.

• xxxx-xYxx-xxxx - Driver Rear Pod Speaker & Subwoofer
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 2 - Speaker & Sub
  • 4 - Tweeter
  • 6 - Tweeter & Sub
  • 8 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • A - Speaker, Tweeter, & Sub
  • C - No speaker
  • E - Sub only

And to set expectation... the upgrade you have planned should give a small amount of low-end through the subwoofer, and the highs should be MUCH more clear than they are now. Some might say the highs are too high, but you'll have to see what you think when you get there.

Thank you so much for this. Its exactly the advice I was looking for. Can I ask your opinion on the direction I am going? Im trying to strike the right balance and get the bank for my buck. All in this option will cost me under $500. Is it worth it for example to spend more money and get a better amp? Will the return on that investment be worth it?

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