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[How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub

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RagnarKon

RagnarKon

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Rag or anyone else, is it worth to swap the OEM sub to something else? I have the 7 speaker system as of a week ago and already changed the dashboard speakers. But was wondering if its worth the hassle to swap out the stock sub
In my opinion, only if you are willing to swap out the amplifier too.
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Karl_in_Chicago

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Thank you for that info. I’m not sure exactly what it means, but it gives me a topic to research online.
It’s all brand new to me, but with you and others reply’s il get it down to we’re it all makes sense in my head
Oh, OK, what I'm saying is that if you go BIGGER you may need more power. The stock setup (whether a functional factory install or user-remedied update of a factory delete) isn't what anyone would consider a "big" sub amp. Subs are not as nuanced as other speakers so, mostly, "improving" on the stock design means going bigger. Ignoring the obvious physical size limitations imposed by the stock location any substantially larger subwoofer (speaker) will typically require a more robust sub amp to properly power it. The stock wiring run by Ford to the stock subwoofer amp seems to be more than enough to handle the current required by that amp . A *larger* amp may require more power than what can be delivered via that circuit (as wired from the factory). There is a separate 12V feed nearby that *might* be able to satisfy a larger amp's needs, depending upon what they are. If not then a new power supply would need to be run from the vehicle's battery back to the amp location.

I raised this as a potential concern only because a number of people have commented that they aren't/weren't comfortable with "stereo stuff" but found the specific process of "re-contenting" the deleted sub - with the help of doc created on these forums by Ragnarok and others - easy enough to follow that they got it done. For some of those same folks if the ante is raised such that the tasks now involve futzing with power cabling they might choose to fold at that point. That's all.
 

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Oh, OK, what I'm saying is that if you go BIGGER you may need more power. The stock setup (whether a functional factory install or user-remedied update of a factory delete) isn't what anyone would consider a "big" sub amp. Subs are not as nuanced as other speakers so, mostly, "improving" on the stock design means going bigger. Ignoring the obvious physical size limitations imposed by the stock location any substantially larger subwoofer (speaker) will typically require a more robust sub amp to properly power it. The stock wiring run by Ford to the stock subwoofer amp seems to be more than enough to handle the current required by that amp . A *larger* amp may require more power than what can be delivered via that circuit (as wired from the factory). There is a separate 12V feed nearby that *might* be able to satisfy a larger amp's needs, depending upon what they are. If not then a new power supply would need to be run from the vehicle's battery back to the amp location.

I raised this as a potential concern only because a number of people have commented that they aren't/weren't comfortable with "stereo stuff" but found the specific process of "re-contenting" the deleted sub - with the help of doc created on these forums by Ragnarok and others - easy enough to follow that they got it done. For some of those same folks if the ante is raised such that the tasks now involve futzing with power cabling they might choose to fold at that point. That's all.
After reading your response above, It’s all making sense now.
Sounds like if I stick with the kicker speakers and sub option I will be fine with the amps that have been recommended already.
Otherwise if I do chose to complicated things for myself with other options il have to look into power supply options you mentioned.

thank you, this is truly helpful
 

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After reading your response above, It’s all making sense now.
Sounds like if I stick with the kicker speakers and sub option I will be fine with the amps that have been recommended already.
Otherwise if I do chose to complicated things for myself with other options il have to look into power supply options you mentioned.

thank you, this is truly helpful
did it today... https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/fake-sub-amp-now-what.80162/page-9#post-2037622
 

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@RagnarKon do you have additional pics of how everything is wired/connected? I bought the plugnplay kits as well and trying to understand all this before I start.

I guess that load resistor wires go into the connection into the 200.4 connection?

Where do the rca cables go to and from? I see the connections on the 500.1 but not sure where they go.
 
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@RagnarKon do you have additional pics of how everything is wired/connected? I bought the plugnplay kits as well and trying to understand all this before I start.

I guess that load resistor wires go into the connection into the 200.4 connection?

Where do the rca cables go to and from? I see the connections on the 500.1 but not sure where they go.
I don't know exactly which harness you got. If you snap some photos and post them I can mark it up for you.

The harness I got was the older style plugnplay harness, so if you purchased one of the newer ones it won't match up completely. I don't have any good photos, but I stole this from my amplifier install video and marked it up in case it is helpful:

Ford Bronco [How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub 1693752885042
 

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I don't know exactly which harness you got. If you snap some photos and post them I can mark it up for you.

The harness I got was the older style plugnplay harness, so if you purchased one of the newer ones it won't match up completely. I don't have any good photos, but I stole this from my amplifier install video and marked it up in case it is helpful:

Ford Bronco [How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub 1693752885042
Thanks for that. I’ll take some pics when I get back home.
Pretty sure mine is very similar to your setup.

I have a 2022 OBX with high package. Bought the pnp harness and 200.4 last year then just decided to do the sub amp combo since it needs it.
 

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Here’s what I have going on.

The two ?? Is what I am unsure about.

PNP included that wiring diagram and I’d imagine the LR wiring goes into that white connector on the bottom right that you screenshot?

IMG_4616.jpeg


IMG_4615.jpeg


IMG_4618.jpeg


IMG_4619.jpeg
 

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RagnarKon

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Here’s what I have going on.

The two ?? Is what I am unsure about.

PNP included that wiring diagram and I’d imagine the LR wiring goes into that white connector on the bottom right that you screenshot?

IMG_4616.jpeg


IMG_4615.jpeg


IMG_4618.jpeg


IMG_4619.jpeg
Okay so I think I have an idea what's going on. But quick clarifying question:

Was the first harness you have (that's currently plugged into the 200.4). Was that the older plugnplay harness specifically for the 200.4?? And now you're trying to add a 500.1 on top of that original harness??

And what Kit # is the second kit?
 

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Okay so I think I have an idea what's going on. But quick clarifying question:

Was the first harness you have (that's currently plugged into the 200.4). Was that the older plugnplay harness specifically for the 200.4?? And now you're trying to add a 500.1 on top of that original harness??

And what Kit # is the second kit?
Correct, I bet it probably is the older harness. When I talked to Joe I told him I had bought the 200.4 last year and wanted to add the 500.1 so let me know what to get. He didn’t give me a kit number, just sent an invoice for the 500.1 and power harness for the 200.4. I’m going to shoot him an email and see what we need to do to fix it.
 
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Correct, I bet it probably is the older harness. When I talked to Joe I told him I had bought the 200.4 last year and wanted to add the 500.1 so let me know what to get. He didn’t give me a kit number, just sent an invoice for the 500.1 and power harness for the 200.4. I’m going to shoot him an email and see what we need to do to fix it.
Gotcha, now this makes a whole lot more sense.

So this isn't what you need. You can easily make it work if you are willing to cut up and re-terminate a few a few things. But this isn't what you need.
 

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Gotcha, now this makes a whole lot more sense.

So this isn't what you need. You can easily make it work if you are willing to cut up and re-terminate a few a few things. But this isn't what you need.
I’d imagine splicing the LR cables into the front speaker wires on one of the harnesses?
 
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I’d imagine splicing the LR cables into the front speaker wires on one of the harnesses?
Yup. You'd splice LR into the same wires that feed the amplifier 1 input in the Kicker Key 200.4.
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