They don't apply it to rotating parts like the driveshaft or the shocks or exhaust, which is good.
I see on other forums some references to Noxudol 900 (what they apply to the frame) as "tar." The actual listed ingredients include waxes, solvents, and "bitumen," which in America is called asphalt, and not quite the same as tar...FWIW. The 900 sets up pretty quickly so the car can be driven immediately after.
I think the cavity wax they use is probably Noxudol 750. Supposedly similar viscosity to Fluid Film.
There are other variants, 300 and 700. From what I've read I might prefer those, but I don't think anybody around these parts (MD, VA, DC) applies them.
I'm wondering how Woolwax, Fluid Film, etc. compare to Noxudol 900 over the long haul in terms of all the pros/cons. I've read that Noxudol was spec'd for warranty service on Toyotas, but I'm sure that would be the 300/700 as the 900 can't be applied over rust.
I see on other forums some references to Noxudol 900 (what they apply to the frame) as "tar." The actual listed ingredients include waxes, solvents, and "bitumen," which in America is called asphalt, and not quite the same as tar...FWIW. The 900 sets up pretty quickly so the car can be driven immediately after.
I think the cavity wax they use is probably Noxudol 750. Supposedly similar viscosity to Fluid Film.
There are other variants, 300 and 700. From what I've read I might prefer those, but I don't think anybody around these parts (MD, VA, DC) applies them.
I'm wondering how Woolwax, Fluid Film, etc. compare to Noxudol 900 over the long haul in terms of all the pros/cons. I've read that Noxudol was spec'd for warranty service on Toyotas, but I'm sure that would be the 300/700 as the 900 can't be applied over rust.
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