ICON XD Forged Tie Rods

[swooshdave]

How many that are replacing with this new ICON tie rod will also install the steering rack sleeve/bushing?

That would be a pretty strong combo.

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[Dusty at ICON]

Hey @Dusty at ICON

Any info available on recommended frequency for pushing a little grease into the Zirk?

I assume these are pre-greased and don’t need any prior to installation. Is that correct?

any specific grease recommended?
(I typically use the Super Lube synthetic)

thanks!

Grease every 5K miles for normal use. If you regularly do oil changes every 5K rather than waiting for the oil life monitor in the computer, you could just make this part of your regular maintenance routine. For lots of unusual use such as lots of mud, salt, sand, etc. you should cut it down to 3K intervals. Or throw a pump or two in there after a trail ride that is particularly muddy or sandy, or you came through water crossings. The recommended grease is any good heavy duty NLGI Grade 2 lithium or synthetic grease. Yes the tie rods come pre-greased but it certainly won't hurt to top it off after you first install them.

 

[Ramble_Offroad]

Grease every 5K miles for normal use. If you regularly do oil changes every 5K rather than waiting for the oil life monitor in the computer, you could just make this part of your regular maintenance routine. For lots of unusual use such as lots of mud, salt, sand, etc. you should cut it down to 3K intervals. Or throw a pump or two in there after a trail ride that is particularly muddy or sandy, or you came through water crossings. The recommended grease is any good heavy duty NLGI Grade 2 lithium or synthetic grease. Yes the tie rods come pre-greased but it certainly won't hurt to top it off after you first install them.

Thank you.

 

[rguest3]

The Icon Tie Rods have some sort of finish on them, but definitely not a long term solution.

I actually painted mine (outer arm) yesterday and will install them next week.

 

[Inlinejohn]

The Icon Tie Rods have some sort of finish on them, but definitely not a long term solution.

I actually painted mine (outer arm) yesterday and will install them next week.

pics please. What did you use? Why not paint inner?

 

[Cysquatch]

Finally an actual fix for the tie rod issue. Not a bandaid.

And actually cheaper than the Broncbuster braces!

 

[Inlinejohn]

@Dusty at ICON

What finish protection has been applied to the ICON tie rods?

 

[Dusty at ICON]

@Dusty at ICON

What finish protection has been applied to the ICON tie rods?

The inner tie rod is bare machined 4140 chromoly, which is somewhat rust resistant but can eventually form surface rust in corrosive environments. Periodic application of oil or wax should keep them shiny for the long term.

The outer is forged steel with a manganese phosphate coating. I wasn't familiar with that particular finish so I did a little bit of googling to educate myself about it. According to this page:

​

Manganese Phosphate is intended to produce highly corrosion resistant, non-metallic, manganese phosphate coatings on iron and steel surfaces. The coatings have great adherence and provide substantial protection from rust by bonding the final finish of stain, oil, wax or paint to the treated articles. The treatment produces a uniform coating and is especially suitable for rust proofing threaded pieces and articles with small holes or recesses. ​

As far as I know, we have not applied any sort of a "final finish" as stated in that article. Will it ever rust? My guess is it will eventually form surface rust, depending on the environment. Here in the southwest where we don't salt the roads, I won't be worrying about it much. But if you're concerned about it, painting them might be a good idea. It sounds like the manganese phosphate is a good surface for bonding with paints and other finishes. Or, as the article suggests, just wipe them periodically with wax or oil. Which is what I will be doing with mine, just hitting them with a rag with a bit of 3-in-1 whenever I grease the TRE's.

 

[Inlinejohn]

The inner tie rod is bare machined 4140 chromoly, which is somewhat rust resistant but can eventually form surface rust in corrosive environments. Periodic application of oil or wax should keep them shiny for the long term.

The outer is forged steel with a manganese phosphate coating. I wasn't familiar with that particular finish so I did a little bit of googling to educate myself about it. According to this page:

​

Manganese Phosphate is intended to produce highly corrosion resistant, non-metallic, manganese phosphate coatings on iron and steel surfaces. The coatings have great adherence and provide substantial protection from rust by bonding the final finish of stain, oil, wax or paint to the treated articles. The treatment produces a uniform coating and is especially suitable for rust proofing threaded pieces and articles with small holes or recesses. ​

As far as I know, we have not applied any sort of a "final finish" as stated in that article. Will it ever rust? My guess is will eventually form surface rust, depending on the environment. Here in the southwest where we don't salt the roads, I won't be worrying about it much. But if you're concerned about it, painting them might be a good idea. It sounds like the manganese phosphate is a good surface for bonding with paints and other finishes. Or, as the article suggests, just wipe them periodically with wax or oil. Which is what I will be doing with mine, just hitting them with a rag with a bit of 3-in-1 whenever I grease the TRE's.

Thanks Dusty and for doing a little research/education. Always a good idea. I think I might hit with some Rustoleum before I install

 

[Gettyup]

The inner tie rod is bare machined 4140 chromoly, which is somewhat rust resistant but can eventually form surface rust in corrosive environments. Periodic application of oil or wax should keep them shiny for the long term.

The outer is forged steel with a manganese phosphate coating. I wasn't familiar with that particular finish so I did a little bit of googling to educate myself about it. According to this page:

​

Manganese Phosphate is intended to produce highly corrosion resistant, non-metallic, manganese phosphate coatings on iron and steel surfaces. The coatings have great adherence and provide substantial protection from rust by bonding the final finish of stain, oil, wax or paint to the treated articles. The treatment produces a uniform coating and is especially suitable for rust proofing threaded pieces and articles with small holes or recesses. ​

As far as I know, we have not applied any sort of a "final finish" as stated in that article. Will it ever rust? My guess is it will eventually form surface rust, depending on the environment. Here in the southwest where we don't salt the roads, I won't be worrying about it much. But if you're concerned about it, painting them might be a good idea. It sounds like the manganese phosphate is a good surface for bonding with paints and other finishes. Or, as the article suggests, just wipe them periodically with wax or oil. Which is what I will be doing with mine, just hitting them with a rag with a bit of 3-in-1 whenever I grease the TRE's.

Thanks Dusty!

 

[Dmorty217]

Has anyone who received these had them powder coated fully or even just the section in question about rusting?

 

[Inlinejohn]

Has anyone who received these had them powder coated fully or even just the section in question about rusting?

Was planing to rattle can w Rustoleum. Don’t want to tear apart any bearings

 

[Dmorty217]

Was planing to rattle can w Rustoleum. Don’t want to tear apart any bearings

Didn’t think about having to tear the bearings apart to powder coat them. That could make that more difficult than I was anticipating

 

[Inlinejohn]

Didn’t think about having to tear the bearings apart to powder coat them. That could make that more difficult than I was anticipating

Powdercoating is powder applied, then baked in an oven. Not sure the bearings would like this

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