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stubbzilla

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I ran the power cable directly from the battery to the sub, the firewall has a few areas to run the cable through. Then as the cable is larger I used a size to match butt connector for the large cable and then just did I good job crimping the smaller wire to the sub. It worked fine and then to secure both ends used some liquid electrical tape off Amazon to seal both ends. Any other questions let me know and enjoy. The bronco now has a better sound system than our Harmon Kardon system in our BMW X5! Good luck
Thanks so much! Really appreciate the details will install next weekend and keep you posted thanks.
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jehines3

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Thanks! I'd be upset if I paid for the B&O upgrade and still needed to spend money for better audio.
I was bummed I paid for a Badlands and still had to upgrade the wheels. 😂

I’m still rocking a stock B&O but the wheels took to the shed in the first month.

Yes, the B&O is underwhelming. It’s more the sub rattle that sucks the joy out of it.
 

Awsum_Al

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@Awsum_Al - with those new settings - do you expect to need hi-pass filters/bass blockers for the rear pods?

I’m thinking of upgrading to 6.5” back there to balance things out now that the front is dialed in with better kickers.
The 6.5" KS speakers are good down to 40Hz, so I do not expect to need hi-pass filter. If I did need it I would probably use the built in settings to set those speakers to tweeter only.

I have been playing with the EQ settings and right now I am using 6, because I think it has a little more bass. Although, that is subjective. Right now speakers sound about equal, but I could definitely use more power to push the lows.
 

ILoveToDrive

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I finally got around to installing upgraded 4" speakers in front and rear and made a video that I hope will help others that want to do this as well. This project only costs about $120 so I think the resulting improvement in sound quality is well worth that investment.

I also recorded some before and after audio so that you can hear a 'side by side' comparison of:
1) stock speakers
2) upgraded Infinity Reference speakers
3) upgraded speakers plus the FORScan update (ACM module line 727-01-01 change 382B to read 3800)

Based on my testing, especially at lower volume, the FORScan mod definitely makes a difference. If you want to skip right to that part of the video, go to the 16:30 mark of the video

Thank you to forum members @Roll Sound and @ryannshit and @ASlaugh who all provided useful content that helped guide me

Here is the video:
HUGE shoutout to @BudgetBronco for the fantastic video tutorial! Best one I've seen in terms of laser focus on the task. Thanks!
 

ILoveToDrive

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I finally got around to installing upgraded 4" speakers in front and rear and made a video that I hope will help others that want to do this as well. This project only costs about $120 so I think the resulting improvement in sound quality is well worth that investment.

I also recorded some before and after audio so that you can hear a 'side by side' comparison of:
1) stock speakers
2) upgraded Infinity Reference speakers
3) upgraded speakers plus the FORScan update (ACM module line 727-01-01 change 382B to read 3800)

Based on my testing, especially at lower volume, the FORScan mod definitely makes a difference. If you want to skip right to that part of the video, go to the 16:30 mark of the video

Thank you to forum members @Roll Sound and @ryannshit and @ASlaugh who all provided useful content that helped guide me

Here is the video:
I installed the 4" Kickrs in the rear pods...https://a.co/d/9Y8VUOg ...and wrote the 3800 Forscan mod. Nothing else installed yet. The pods are pushing a ton of treble. I know everything will change once I throw in the sub and the fusion amp and the front top 4" Kickers, and run the appropriate Forscan mods. I assume running the Flatten EQ mod will also have an impact.
Any feedback or guidance is welcome. This is all new to me.
 

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Bmanati

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Ya that is fair, I am probably in the minority of cutting wires to save $20.

Forscan: I'm also cautious on using it to do wacky things like trying to add GOAT modes, but for this change, which only modifies the Audio Control Module, I personally felt confident of doing so without warranty concerns. In order to deny a warranty claim, Ford would have to justify that your module change contributed to the failure, so in the case of a 2.7 valve failure I think that would be a big leap.

Now if your radio on Sync system fried, that would be another matter. There is some risk for things like that.
If you adjust speaker settings in forscan, does that void the warranty?
 

redone17

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@Awsum_Al - thanks! Those settings cleared the DTC and it sounds amazing now that I installed 6.5” Memphis MJP6 in the IAG pods and re-ran the DSP. Super satisfied with this upgrade and total cost was $1200 .

- Dash - Infinity Reference REF-4032CFX 4” + 300hz Bass Blockers
- Kicker Panel + Pods - Memphis MJP6 6.5”
- Kicker Key 200.4 + PnP Harness + Power Adapter
 

gaaangs

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I have kickers in front and back, both with bass blockers. The front sound is MUCH louder when listening to music and using the fade to isolate the front and back. And idea why? Changes have been made.
sound.PNG
I did the flat EQ change as well. I feel like there is def more power to the pods speakers and they are louder. I had to put bass blockers on them.

That being said, they are def still not as loud as the fronts. I think that comes down to them not having the same power going to them. The front 4 in my system are in the key amp. I don't think the pods are wired to use that amp - different circuit. Might be as loud as they are going to go without an amp.
 

RagnarKon

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I did the flat EQ change as well. I feel like there is def more power to the pods speakers and they are louder. I had to put bass blockers on them.

That being said, they are def still not as loud as the fronts. I think that comes down to them not having the same power going to them. The front 4 in my system are in the key amp. I don't think the pods are wired to use that amp - different circuit. Might be as loud as they are going to go without an amp.
You gotta change the rear speaker configurations, as from the factory they are set to "tweeter".

Just posted a video on it.

Setting the correct speaker config will help a little bit more, but you are correct... at some point there is only so much the ACM can do and you have to install an amplifier.
 

gaaangs

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You gotta change the rear speaker configurations, as from the factory they are set to "tweeter".

Just posted a video on it.

Setting the correct speaker config will help a little bit more, but you are correct... at some point there is only so much the ACM can do and you have to install an amplifier.
I did the change to activate the 7 speaker sub in the back - I think this impacted the pod speakers as well. Is this the change your talking about? Or a different one?
 

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RagnarKon

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I did the change to activate the 7 speaker sub in the back - I think this impacted the pod speakers as well. Is this the change your talking about? Or a different one?
It covers everything you'd want to know about the Audio Control Module. Speaker configurations / EQ settings / etc. And yes, the subwoofer shares a setting with one of the rear pod speakers.

Specifically... by default the rear pod speakers is set to "Tweeter" because they are 4" speakers. If you change the setting to "Speaker" it'll send them more power. (Whether you'll actually notice a different or not is questionable, because the factory amp is limited.)
 

Karl_in_Chicago

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I did the flat EQ change as well. I feel like there is def more power to the pods speakers and they are louder. I had to put bass blockers on them.

That being said, they are def still not as loud as the fronts. I think that comes down to them not having the same power going to them. The front 4 in my system are in the key amp. I don't think the pods are wired to use that amp - different circuit. Might be as loud as they are going to go without an amp.
From where are your rear speakers drawing power if not from the aftermarket amp? Did you split the speaker-out wiring from the head unit so that only the fronts go to the amp while preserving the rears as-is? If so, why?
 

redone17

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It covers everything you'd want to know about the Audio Control Module. Speaker configurations / EQ settings / etc. And yes, the subwoofer shares a setting with one of the rear pod speakers.

Specifically... by default the rear pod speakers is set to "Tweeter" because they are 4" speakers. If you change the setting to "Speaker" it'll send them more power. (Whether you'll actually notice a different or not is questionable, because the factory amp is limited, and the factory 4" speakers are weak.)
Your video is on my to-do list - but, I already installed the amp - good to know there is that much more info provided in there.

On the Kicker Key itself there are two gains. The one on the right side of the switches would send more frequency to the rear? It was unclear to me what those two dials do.

I definitely notice a more full sound with the Forscan settings + 6.5” in the back. But, perhaps they’re a little underutilized.
 

fallguy

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I did the flat EQ change as well. I feel like there is def more power to the pods speakers and they are louder. I had to put bass blockers on them.

That being said, they are def still not as loud as the fronts. I think that comes down to them not having the same power going to them. The front 4 in my system are in the key amp. I don't think the pods are wired to use that amp - different circuit. Might be as loud as they are going to go without an amp.
I agree. I have thought about adding my rear speakers to my 700w amp I have for my sub. But it's tapped into the left kick panel speaker. I'd lose my fade. Doesn't matter too much I guess, but our son does ride in the back in a booster. 6.5 pod is right by his ear.
 

RagnarKon

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Your video is on my to-do list - but, I already installed the amp - good to know there is that much more info provided in there.

On the Kicker Key itself there are two gains. The one on the right side of the switches would send more frequency to the rear? It was unclear to me what those two dials do.

I definitely notice a more full sound with the Forscan settings + 6.5” in the back. But, perhaps they’re a little underutilized.
Yeah the Kicker Key effectively has two stereo amplifiers built into it. It depends on how you wire it obviously... BUT usually you would put the front two channels (the four speakers up front) on one amp, and the rear two channels (the two pods in the back) on the other amp.

Those gain potentiometers on the Kicker amp simply increases/decreases the overall volume. Doesn't do anything in regards to frequency. If you want more volume out of the rear pods you can simply increase the gain on the Kicker Key for the amplifier associated with rear two channels. And you should set the gain last—after both your Forscan mods and the Kicker auto setup.

Personally I have the gain for both amps (all four channels) set to their lowest setting so I don't blow out the kids sitting in the back seat. But if you don't usually have rear passengers... go crazy if you want more volume out of them. ;)
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