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BCKMRKR

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Nice - rough idea of the (highly skilled) labor hours?
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ArtHughes

ArtHughes

Badlands
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Art
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Badlands
Nice - rough idea of the (highly skilled) labor hours?
I didn't keep track of hours unfortunately, but it was built over about 2 months when time allowed. (nights and weekends mostly).
 

MNBigfoot

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The power gear under the deck is as follows:
  • Two 12v100ah Lithium Batteries
  • Victron 500A Shunt (for power monitoring)
  • Victon 12-12-30 Isolated DC to DC Charger
  • Victron MPPT 75 | 10 Solar Charge Controller
  • Renogy 2000W Sine Wave Inverter
  • Blue Sea Systems Fuse Blocks and Power Cutoff Switch
Not counting the audio upgrades, would you change any of the electrical components? Everything is basically running off stand-alone batteries, and not tied into the Broncos alternator/batteries?
 
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ArtHughes

ArtHughes

Badlands
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Not counting the audio upgrades, would you change any of the electrical components? Everything is basically running off stand-alone batteries, and not tied into the Broncos alternator/batteries?
As of now, everything is working perfectly so I wouldn't change anything. If that changes down the line ill be sure to post about it here. I have a lot of experience with the Victron gear and it has always worked well in really harsh environments. I really like the ecosystem they've created so their components all work seamlessly together.

The two lithium batteries are charged by the 30amp dc to dc charger, which is fed by the Bronco alternator once the vehicle battery is charged. This means that the battery bank gets topped off each day as i drive around. If i were going to be camped somewhere without moving for days at a time (which never seems to be the case for me), I can also plug in a solar panel to the truck to charge the battery bank that way.
 

604Bronco

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Badlands
Clubs
 
I don’t camp/overland, but this looks amazing - well done! Such a great level of detail was put into this.
 

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ArtHughes

ArtHughes

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I don’t camp/overland, but this looks amazing - well done! Such a great level of detail was put into this.
Thanks very much! The scope of the build definitely expanded a bit once I got into it, but that was half the fun.
 

BCKMRKR

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Agreed, this looks like a $200K+ Sprinter build like your cross-town neighbors Outside Van
 
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ArtHughes

ArtHughes

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Agreed, this looks like a $200K+ Sprinter build like your cross-town neighbors Outside Van
I'll have to check them out. Haven't seen their build. Sprinters certainly have a lot more room for activities, but can't climb like a Bronco 😅
 

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AttackGuy64

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Clubs
 
It was a combination of design in Solidworks and a ton of pen and paper design work. I have an 18"x24" CNC in my garage so I used that for all the small faceplate and hatches, but all the larger parts were drawn out and fabricated by hand with more common woodworking tools (table saw, router table, handheld router with templates I made, etc)

I appreciate the kind words. I would have shared more of the fabrication side of it, but this was my first post here on this forum and it was already incredibly long winded 😆
Wow, the quality shows in all the cuts. I assumed that it was 100% CNC. Great work.
 

Broncofly

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Here is a look at the camp platform and power system I built and installed in my 2023 4Dr Bronco Badlands w/ the Sasquatch Package. I have been planning this build since first reserving my Bronco (which was initially a 21 model year) with the goal of it being a go-anywhere nature photography vehicle. The main objectives were to create a flat sleeping surface that I could stretch out in (I’m 6’3”), add a large 12V/120V auxiliary power system, ensure that everything I built was rattle-free and silent off-road, and do this without making permanent modifications to the vehicle (meaning it all bolts in using stock anchor points).

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To do this, the driver side section of the rear seat was removed to allow for a perfectly flat platform from the cargo area up through to the driver’s seat. I made a subframe system out of ¾” Baltic birch plywood that ties into the 4 cargo bay tie down points in the rear, and into the anchor points used for the rear seat. The subframe in the rear was built at a slight angle to provide a level platform when the vehicle is level, since the OEM cargo floor is at an angle relative to the frame. This determined the angle for the entire platform.

Next was a 2 section deck platform made from ½” Baltic birch plywood that bolts to the new subframe. The front and rear sections were split so each can easily be removed (4 bolts per section) which gives quick access to all the power equipment and wiring built into the subframe. There are two storage hatches in the front section of the bay with magnetic doors for storage of camp gear (JetBoil, propane tanks, etc), and a flip out deck extension to give me extra headroom when setup for sleeping. The side of the platform accessed from the passenger door has a faceplate that houses the main battery disconnect switch for the dual batteries, and a small hatchet mount I made from hard white maple since my camp hatchet happened to fit perfectly in that space.

The rear deck has a large equipment bay for stereo gear since I replaced the lackluster factory system (I’ll cover that in another post, since this is already long-winded), and a hinged rear door, under which hangs a 2,000 watt sine wave inverter. This hinged panel gives me access to the factory storage bay in the cargo floor for the OEM jack, as well as the factory storage compartment where I keep all my vehicle recovery gear. I added an auxiliary control panel for the onboard air compressor that has the 3/8” air QD bulkhead and the power switch for the ARB Twin compressor. I built a composite mount system for the compressor and mounted it in the passenger side cargo area window behind the interior frame rail. This is wired to the auxiliary power system so I can run the compressor without the vehicle running. The primary purpose of the compressor is for airing up and down when off-road, but I use it every night for inflating the camp mattress as well. I built a 4-tire inflation manifold and hose kit to hook up to the rear of the platform for easy and mostly hands-off inflation.

I built an auxiliary control box that is installed in the rear cargo window frame behind the exposed vehicle frame structure. I matched the angle of the interior frame for an OEM look, and admittedly went a little crazy with the design and build of the enclosure. It’s built from ½” Baltic birch plywood, then shaped to match the interior contours. I had to create a baseplate that would give a flat mounting surface, which is attached to the rear roof bolt-down points. I CNC’d a carbon fiber faceplate that contains a Victron BMV 700 Battery Monitor w/ Bluetooth Module, Blue Sea Systems Power Switch, Renogy Inverter Control Panel, Interior LED Power Switch, High Current 12v Outputs, dual 120V outputs, three 12V accessory outlets, and 2 dual USB outlets. This panel location was chosen for easy access to all the system outputs from the tailgate and while I’m laying inside to sleep.

The power gear under the deck is as follows:
  • Two 12v100ah Lithium Batteries
  • Victron 500A Shunt (for power monitoring)
  • Victon 12-12-30 Isolated DC to DC Charger
  • Victron MPPT 75 | 10 Solar Charge Controller
  • Renogy 2000W Sine Wave Inverter
  • Blue Sea Systems Fuse Blocks and Power Cutoff Switches
  • AudioControl LC7i Active Line Converter
  • JL Audio XD-1000/5V2 5 Channel Amplifier
Above the deck is a 50 quart ICECO 12v Fridge, ARB Twin Air Compressor, interior weatherproof LED lighting on a remote dimmer, custom made fire extinguisher mount, and a custom camera mount plate for camera charging while driving. I also added an Outback Adventure Products TrailGater Tailgate Table, which has been an amazing addition.

The platform deck is finished with 2 coats of water based satin polyurethane, and the lower sections of the subframe that are visible are sprayed with a textured black satin paint to blend into the interior. I added 3 sections of adhesive rubber on the deck to provide grip that prevents gear from sliding, and US Cargo Control removable anchor points for gear tiedowns. I may eventually coat the deck with something like Line-X, but once I go that route there is no undoing it. My main concern with that is off gassing since I sleep inside, but I still may go that route in the future.

Overall, I’m really pleased with the results and the system has performed better than expected. I’ve had a bunch of extended trips with it all over the PNW and up through the Canadian Rockies and it’s been rock solid. There have been zero rattles and the added utility as a camper has given me access to areas I’d never reach otherwise.

There is a quick video walkthrough of it from when it was initially finished on instagram, https://www.instagram.com/arthughesphoto

I'd welcome any questions or feedback on the build.

-Art

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Subframe Power System.jpg


Inverter Mount.jpg


Stereo AMP-LOC Rack.jpg


Bronco Canadian Rockies Camp.jpg
Well done! Continue to rock!🙌🖖😎
 
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ArtHughes

ArtHughes

Badlands
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Wow, the quality shows in all the cuts. I assumed that it was 100% CNC. Great work.
Thanks man... with the right process and use of templates, and a lot of patience, you can get results that look identical to a cnc product with much more basic tools (handheld router and a flush trim bit).

Its often more rewarding than the cnc work i do, but I wouldn't trade having the cnc in the shop for anything 😆

20230912_120607.jpg
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