Interior Camp Platform / Power System Build for 4Dr Bronco Badlands

[MNBigfoot]

Purpose built and Badass.

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[ArtHughes]

Very thoughtful build!
With that much space dedicated to the refrigator, where do you keep all your clothes, and cooking gear? Do you need to leave a bunch of stuff outside when you sleep?
THANKS! NICE WORK!

Thanks Bruno. Fortunately there are 3 open seats left so no need to leave gear outside. My cloths are in a large duffel bag that i just put in the front seat with my camera backpack when sleeping. Then I use two Rubbermaid 8 gal. Action Packer totes for cooking supplies and food. I also have a 5gallon Sceptre water jug inside too. I did make a small shelf insert that goes on the rear seat if i fold that down, which helps organize the interior even more during longer trips. I didnt have a photo for that in the post since i haven't finished it yet, but its been a great addition when needed.

I would like to add a roof rack at some point (likely a @TrailRax TRMR), a roof box and awning to be able to add even more capacity, but its almost perfect for a solo trip as it sits.

 

[TrailRax]

Thanks Bruno. Fortunately there are 3 open seats left so no need to leave gear outside. My cloths are in a large duffel bag that i just put in the front seat with my camera backpack when sleeping. Then I use two Rubbermaid 8 gal. Action Packer totes for cooking supplies and food. I also have a 5gallon Sceptre water jug inside too. I did make a small shelf insert that goes on the rear seat if i fold that down, which helps organize the interior even more during longer trips. I didnt have a photo for that in the post since i have finished it yet, but its been a great addition when needed.

I would like to add a roof rack at some point (likely a @TrailRax TRMR), a roof box and awning to be able to add even more capacity, but its almost perfect for a solo trip as it sits.

Love the idea! Great craftsmanship on this whole thing! Very well thought out. Bravo!

 

[JohnnyX]

Here is a look at the camp platform and power system I built and installed in my 2023 4Dr Bronco Badlands w/ the Sasquatch Package. I have been planning this build since first reserving my Bronco (which was initially a 21 model year) with the goal of it being a go-anywhere nature photography vehicle. The main objectives were to create a flat sleeping surface that I could stretch out in (I’m 6’3”), add a large 12V/120V auxiliary power system, ensure that everything I built was rattle-free and silent off-road, and do this without making permanent modifications to the vehicle (meaning it all bolts in using stock anchor points).

To do this, the driver side section of the rear seat was removed to allow for a perfectly flat platform from the cargo area up through to the driver’s seat. I made a subframe system out of ¾” Baltic birch plywood that ties into the 4 cargo bay tie down points in the rear, and into the anchor points used for the rear seat. The subframe in the rear was built at a slight angle to provide a level platform when the vehicle is level, since the OEM cargo floor is at an angle relative to the frame. This determined the angle for the entire platform.

Next was a 2 section deck platform made from ½” Baltic birch plywood that bolts to the new subframe. The front and rear sections were split so each can easily be removed (4 bolts per section) which gives quick access to all the power equipment and wiring built into the subframe. There are two storage hatches in the front section of the bay with magnetic doors for storage of camp gear (JetBoil, propane tanks, etc), and a flip out deck extension to give me extra headroom when setup for sleeping. The side of the platform accessed from the passenger door has a faceplate that houses the main battery disconnect switch for the dual batteries, and a small hatchet mount I made from hard white maple since my camp hatchet happened to fit perfectly in that space.

The rear deck has a large equipment bay for stereo gear since I replaced the lackluster factory system (I’ll cover that in another post, since this is already long-winded), and a hinged rear door, under which hangs a 2,000 watt sine wave inverter. This hinged panel gives me access to the factory storage bay in the cargo floor for the OEM jack, as well as the factory storage compartment where I keep all my vehicle recovery gear. I added an auxiliary control panel for the onboard air compressor that has the 3/8” air QD bulkhead and the power switch for the ARB Twin compressor. I built a composite mount system for the compressor and mounted it in the passenger side cargo area window behind the interior frame rail. This is wired to the auxiliary power system so I can run the compressor without the vehicle running. The primary purpose of the compressor is for airing up and down when off-road, but I use it every night for inflating the camp mattress as well. I built a 4-tire inflation manifold and hose kit to hook up to the rear of the platform for easy and mostly hands-off inflation.

I built an auxiliary control box that is installed in the rear cargo window frame behind the exposed vehicle frame structure. I matched the angle of the interior frame for an OEM look, and admittedly went a little crazy with the design and build of the enclosure. It’s built from ½” Baltic birch plywood, then shaped to match the interior contours. I had to create a baseplate that would give a flat mounting surface, which is attached to the rear roof bolt-down points. I CNC’d a carbon fiber faceplate that contains a Victron BMV 700 Battery Monitor w/ Bluetooth Module, Blue Sea Systems Power Switch, Renogy Inverter Control Panel, Interior LED Power Switch, High Current 12v Outputs, dual 120V outputs, three 12V accessory outlets, and 2 dual USB outlets. This panel location was chosen for easy access to all the system outputs from the tailgate and while I’m laying inside to sleep.

The power gear under the deck is as follows:

• Two 12v100ah Lithium Batteries
• Victron 500A Shunt (for power monitoring)
• Victon 12-12-30 Isolated DC to DC Charger
• Victron MPPT 75 | 10 Solar Charge Controller
• Renogy 2000W Sine Wave Inverter
• Blue Sea Systems Fuse Blocks and Power Cutoff Switches
• AudioControl LC7i Active Line Converter
• JL Audio XD-1000/5V2 5 Channel Amplifier

Above the deck is a 50 quart ICECO 12v Fridge, ARB Twin Air Compressor, interior weatherproof LED lighting on a remote dimmer, custom made fire extinguisher mount, and a custom camera mount plate for camera charging while driving. I also added an Outback Adventure Products TrailGater Tailgate Table, which has been an amazing addition.

The platform deck is finished with 2 coats of water based satin polyurethane, and the lower sections of the subframe that are visible are sprayed with a textured black satin paint to blend into the interior. I added 3 sections of adhesive rubber on the deck to provide grip that prevents gear from sliding, and US Cargo Control removable anchor points for gear tiedowns. I may eventually coat the deck with something like Line-X, but once I go that route there is no undoing it. My main concern with that is off gassing since I sleep inside, but I still may go that route in the future.

Overall, I’m really pleased with the results and the system has performed better than expected. I’ve had a bunch of extended trips with it all over the PNW and up through the Canadian Rockies and it’s been rock solid. There have been zero rattles and the added utility as a camper has given me access to areas I’d never reach otherwise.

There is a quick video walkthrough of it from when it was initially finished on instagram, https://www.instagram.com/arthughesphoto

I'd welcome any questions or feedback on the build.

-Art

Damn! Nice work.

 

[AttackGuy64]

What software did you use to design it? Do you still have the CAD files? I am very interested in seeing your CNC machine and all the cuts. Amazing work, sir.

 

[ArtHughes]

What software did you use to design it? Do you still have the CAD files? I am very interested in seeing your CNC machine and all the cuts. Amazing work, sir.

It was a combination of design in Solidworks and a ton of pen and paper design work. I have an 18"x24" CNC in my garage so I used that for all the small faceplate and hatches, but all the larger parts were drawn out and fabricated by hand with more common woodworking tools (table saw, router table, handheld router with templates I made, etc)

I appreciate the kind words. I would have shared more of the fabrication side of it, but this was my first post here on this forum and it was already incredibly long winded

 

[Roofus]

Unfortunately about as long as it took Ford to make it for you in the first place (and with the accompanying dealer markup)

Seriously though, I wish I had the time to do these for other Bronco owners but I just don't see that being possible at this time.

Any idea what the whole build-out cost you?

 

[ArtHughes]

Any idea what the whole build-out cost you?

It would be tough to figure out exactly since I've been hoarding components for a few years waiting for the truck, but certainly a fraction of what it would cost to have someone else make it. The costs for the parts list in the original post would be easy to add up, but the amount of hours in labor plus all of the wiring, terminations, stainless hardware, etc. would be tough to accurately account for. Some of the specialty tooling required would also add up quickly for anyone looking to do it without a solid workshop already built out.

Sorry I cant give a better answer without a detailed cost accounting that would probably really depress me on a Friday . Definitely a "buy once, cry once" approach to this vehicle setup.

 

[Bruno]

all the larger parts were drawn out and fabricated by hand with more common woodworking tools (table saw, router table, handheld router with templates I made, etc)

Why did you go with plywood as opposed to a lightweight composite?

 

[ArtHughes]

Why did you go with plywood as opposed to a lightweight composite?

What did you have in mind for a composite that size? Any sort of honeycomb or lightweight composite would be absurdly expensive and have a ton of other drawbacks for fabrication and day to day interaction. Quality Baltic birch ply is really difficult to beat for stability, strength and value, despite being expensive compared to your normal junk plywood you'd find at a big box store. Just find a quality hardwood supplier when sourcing material.

The weight of the platform and full subframe I built is less than the rear seat I removed, so the only weight increase over a stock vehicle is from the electrical components themselves. Even that is minimal since lithium batteries are less than half the weight of a traditional lead acid of similar capacity.

 

[Roofus]

.Sorry I cant give a better answer without a detailed cost accounting that would probably really depress me on a Friday . Definitely a "buy once, cry once" approach to this vehicle setup.

I get it. I’m probably $9k in for mods in just under 2 years already with about $6k planned this year for skids, steering rack, big brakes. Next year I’ll fully rebuild the suspension which will run $6-9k. Then I’ll stop. I promise.

 

[Bruno]

What did you have in mind for a composite that size? Any sort of honeycomb or lightweight composite would be absurdly expensive and have a ton of other drawbacks for fabrication and day to day interaction. Quality Baltic birch ply is really difficult to beat for stability, strength and value, despite being expensive compared to your normal junk plywood you'd find at a big box store. Just find a quality hardwood supplier when sourcing material.

The weight of the platform and full subframe I built is less than the rear seat I removed, so the only weight increase over a stock vehicle is from the electrical components themselves. Even that is minimal since lithium batteries are less than half the weight of a traditional lead acid of similar capacity.

What I had in mind was either something off the shelf, or fabing up some panels like Dans friend did. Pretty straightforward. I am not saying plywood is a bad choice, i understand the value to performance. Just generally curious why you went that route.
You would definately not need a steel frame like they are showing in this video (for exterior) - you could simply use more panels for the overall build, like you did with plywood

 

[ArtHughes]

What I had in mind was either something off the shelf, or fabing up some panels like Dans friend did. Pretty straightforward. I am not saying plywood is a bad choice, i understand the value to performance. Just generally curious why you went that route.
You would definately not need a steel frame like they are showing in this video (for exterior) - you could simply use more panels for the overall build, like you did with plywood

Ahh gotcha, thanks for the link. For an exterior camper shell, that makes way more sense. For a simple interior platform that I need to be able to climb all over, hardwood ply makes more sense for my use case.

I do have plans for a small off-grid trailer build within the next year or two (similar to what you see from Bean and Oregon Trail'R), and using panels like that for the exterior would be perfect. Definitely saving that youtube link

 

[TLO]

Nicely done!

Here is a look at the camp platform and power system I built and installed in my 2023 4Dr Bronco Badlands w/ the Sasquatch Package. I have been planning this build since first reserving my Bronco (which was initially a 21 model year) with the goal of it being a go-anywhere nature photography vehicle. The main objectives were to create a flat sleeping surface that I could stretch out in (I’m 6’3”), add a large 12V/120V auxiliary power system, ensure that everything I built was rattle-free and silent off-road, and do this without making permanent modifications to the vehicle (meaning it all bolts in using stock anchor points).

To do this, the driver side section of the rear seat was removed to allow for a perfectly flat platform from the cargo area up through to the driver’s seat. I made a subframe system out of ¾” Baltic birch plywood that ties into the 4 cargo bay tie down points in the rear, and into the anchor points used for the rear seat. The subframe in the rear was built at a slight angle to provide a level platform when the vehicle is level, since the OEM cargo floor is at an angle relative to the frame. This determined the angle for the entire platform.

Next was a 2 section deck platform made from ½” Baltic birch plywood that bolts to the new subframe. The front and rear sections were split so each can easily be removed (4 bolts per section) which gives quick access to all the power equipment and wiring built into the subframe. There are two storage hatches in the front section of the bay with magnetic doors for storage of camp gear (JetBoil, propane tanks, etc), and a flip out deck extension to give me extra headroom when setup for sleeping. The side of the platform accessed from the passenger door has a faceplate that houses the main battery disconnect switch for the dual batteries, and a small hatchet mount I made from hard white maple since my camp hatchet happened to fit perfectly in that space.

The rear deck has a large equipment bay for stereo gear since I replaced the lackluster factory system (I’ll cover that in another post, since this is already long-winded), and a hinged rear door, under which hangs a 2,000 watt sine wave inverter. This hinged panel gives me access to the factory storage bay in the cargo floor for the OEM jack, as well as the factory storage compartment where I keep all my vehicle recovery gear. I added an auxiliary control panel for the onboard air compressor that has the 3/8” air QD bulkhead and the power switch for the ARB Twin compressor. I built a composite mount system for the compressor and mounted it in the passenger side cargo area window behind the interior frame rail. This is wired to the auxiliary power system so I can run the compressor without the vehicle running. The primary purpose of the compressor is for airing up and down when off-road, but I use it every night for inflating the camp mattress as well. I built a 4-tire inflation manifold and hose kit to hook up to the rear of the platform for easy and mostly hands-off inflation.

I built an auxiliary control box that is installed in the rear cargo window frame behind the exposed vehicle frame structure. I matched the angle of the interior frame for an OEM look, and admittedly went a little crazy with the design and build of the enclosure. It’s built from ½” Baltic birch plywood, then shaped to match the interior contours. I had to create a baseplate that would give a flat mounting surface, which is attached to the rear roof bolt-down points. I CNC’d a carbon fiber faceplate that contains a Victron BMV 700 Battery Monitor w/ Bluetooth Module, Blue Sea Systems Power Switch, Renogy Inverter Control Panel, Interior LED Power Switch, High Current 12v Outputs, dual 120V outputs, three 12V accessory outlets, and 2 dual USB outlets. This panel location was chosen for easy access to all the system outputs from the tailgate and while I’m laying inside to sleep.

The power gear under the deck is as follows:

• Two 12v100ah Lithium Batteries
• Victron 500A Shunt (for power monitoring)
• Victon 12-12-30 Isolated DC to DC Charger
• Victron MPPT 75 | 10 Solar Charge Controller
• Renogy 2000W Sine Wave Inverter
• Blue Sea Systems Fuse Blocks and Power Cutoff Switches
• AudioControl LC7i Active Line Converter
• JL Audio XD-1000/5V2 5 Channel Amplifier

Above the deck is a 50 quart ICECO 12v Fridge, ARB Twin Air Compressor, interior weatherproof LED lighting on a remote dimmer, custom made fire extinguisher mount, and a custom camera mount plate for camera charging while driving. I also added an Outback Adventure Products TrailGater Tailgate Table, which has been an amazing addition.

The platform deck is finished with 2 coats of water based satin polyurethane, and the lower sections of the subframe that are visible are sprayed with a textured black satin paint to blend into the interior. I added 3 sections of adhesive rubber on the deck to provide grip that prevents gear from sliding, and US Cargo Control removable anchor points for gear tiedowns. I may eventually coat the deck with something like Line-X, but once I go that route there is no undoing it. My main concern with that is off gassing since I sleep inside, but I still may go that route in the future.

Overall, I’m really pleased with the results and the system has performed better than expected. I’ve had a bunch of extended trips with it all over the PNW and up through the Canadian Rockies and it’s been rock solid. There have been zero rattles and the added utility as a camper has given me access to areas I’d never reach otherwise.

There is a quick video walkthrough of it from when it was initially finished on instagram, https://www.instagram.com/arthughesphoto

I'd welcome any questions or feedback on the build.

-Art

 

[Bruno]

Ahh gotcha, thanks for the link. For an exterior camper shell, that makes way more sense. For a simple interior platform that I need to be able to climb all over, hardwood ply makes more sense for my use case.

I do have plans for a small off-grid trailer build within the next year or two (similar to what you see from Bean and Oregon Trail'R), and using panels like that for the exterior would be perfect. Definitely saving that youtube link

yea I honestly dont get all those trailer builds where people make their own aframe trailers and use plywood for walls etc....

Anyway Im planning a platform build as well, and just wanted to know your decision process.
Maybe its a bad idea but I sorta feel like I want to use composite panels for the weight advantage even though it will take way more work, expense, and trouble to make it perform to the level a plywood solution does.
Who knows, maybe ill end up scrapping everything and going back to ply - or if I am lucky ill get it done after a year and it will work fine but weight savings wont have any real practical impact.... idk.

I would be interested to know the overall weight of your platform system. just to get an idea.
BTW - Dan, in that series, used a "Goose" system for interior that included aluminum frame components, and "lightweight bamboo" panels.
IDK if "ply-boo" is just as strong and lighter than plywood - but something to consider I guess.
I think he likely did it to get an interior free for promoting Goose.
Personally I'm not a fan of Goose gear - their "not-flush" latches bother me + I thik their platform is way too high, you cant sit up in the back - a comprimise they chose so they could get a drawer under the platform.
I personally think the platform should sit directly on that backseat rib/hump thing....and be as low as possible. SO you can be in the back and actually sit up.
CHEERS!

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