usually through flat clamps to the side of the hard top or there are some that go through the topper at the front and out the back.
I have low ceilings like yourself and went with a simple setup 4 ratchet straps at each corner and screw eye into the ceiling at these points. It is very efficient as far as using the space to raise the hardtop and doesn't take very long. You basically adjust one corner at a time and dont need a ton of space since the hooks connect to the bottom of the rear hardtop and the front ones connect to the bolt holes for the top. The whole cost was maybe $20-30. If I am going to keep the top off for more than a day or so then I have a 2x4 with 2 more screw eyes in it and 2 more ratchet straps that I connect under the rear of the hardtop to add support so it isn't hanging on those corners.
I really love the frame made of struts. I want to make one like that for my hoist. Is there any way you can post the dimensions and more detailed pics? I saved a few pics you had posted in my thread about lifts. I want to build one like yours please. It looks perfect
That's a 10' ceiling and a surface mounted harbor freight 800lb hoist. Using the stock pulley/snatch hook. The cradle I made from unistrut and custom tiedown hooks are another 6" or so. Leaves about 6-8" of clearance. I use additional unistrut on ceiling and threaded rod with 1x2 aluminum tubing to create a floating shelf to support / store the top once it is raised - taking pressure off the hooks but not disconnecting.
I saw a thread in here where the guy mounted the hoist in his attic and ran the cable through a hole in the ceiling...saved a lot of room. He had shot ceilings also
Sure thing...I'll take some better pics and some get measurements and hardware etc.
Looks great!!I have low ceilings like yourself and went with a simple setup 4 ratchet straps at each corner and screw eye into the ceiling at these points. It is very efficient as far as using the space to raise the hardtop and doesn't take very long. You basically adjust one corner at a time and dont need a ton of space since the hooks connect to the bottom of the rear hardtop and the front ones connect to the bolt holes for the top. The whole cost was maybe $20-30. If I am going to keep the top off for more than a day or so then I have a 2x4 with 2 more screw eyes in it and 2 more ratchet straps that I connect under the rear of the hardtop to add support so it isn't hanging on those corners.
Pics (you can see the unistrut rail on the ceiling for my failed electric winch setup)
Where did you get the flat hooks?I added the newer close up photos to the main photo gallery I have:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Eerm1DfNpW1yvwyw7
The frame itself is 41.5" x 24" with 45* miter cuts at the corners and 90 joining corners - you need this to be mitered in order to ensure you can get both bolts of the outside 90* corners connected on both sides of the 90.
The center picking bar is 22.5" and connected with T joints. This is all done with shallow strut. The bolts are all 3/8 grade 10. (overkill). There are 2 eyebolts in the picking bar one for loaded and one for unloaded so it stays level when empty.
The custom tie downs are 8" long this is the exact order https://customtiedowns.com/search.php?q=7641-BD0.67
The rear roof section is slightly wider in front than rear so rather than make the cage a trapezoid, I spaced it so that if the tiedowns were secured on the inner for the rear and outer for the front - it compensates for the width difference.
Finally the entire thing is sprayed with PlastiDip and I added some pool noodle/pipe wrap to protect from hitting the roof hard...it is a pretty hefty rig compared to the others on the market. In theory I could probably bolt another piece of unistrut across the width and hang a sling to hold my roof mid panel - but I'll play with that idea soon.
The last piece is the deep strut on the ceiling at 60 or so wide (might be 66) to drop threaded road from the ceiling and then attach a pair of 1x2 aluminum rounded corner tubes to support the roof when it is being stored so it is not hanging from the roof rack slots. I turn the wingnuts just enough to relieve pressure on the hooks but not dislodge them. I also stuck pipe foam to the top and bottom as a little bit of padding so I can rest the tubing on the roof or roll bar as needed - I can do the whole thing solo in about 20 min. Oh and I used some paracord to tie the hooks back so they aren't flopping around when the hoist is raising/lowering empty.
Oh and probably most important the flat hooks I got are SUPER STRONG and if you want to coat them or protect the top a little - they need to be opened up to about 60* or more if you can manage that.
Yes it is 100% overkill but it was a fun project I did with my brother.
Hope that helps!
It's in the link for customtiedowns.com
