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Johnny Mo

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Ok. Yours looks like regular flat j-hooks that have been opened up. Correct? I thought about that also.
IMG_0527.jpeg
100% correct and having gone with the heavier duty flat hooks it was an absolute nightmare to get them opened up to that 60* angle they have a 2000 lb+ rating so quite overkill and made it harder for myself.
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Johnny Mo

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Nice design at the top with winch etc but Iā€™d feel better if the straps extended further down to 2x4s under the top so that the weight of the top is supported from below vs just via the slits in the top. Seems like an invitation for something to slip or just be an added strain on these moulded tops
Exactly why I built the floating shelf - did not trust all the historical MIC top issues to suspend it for an extended period from the roof rack points only.
 
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Nice design at the top with winch etc but Iā€™d feel better if the straps extended further down to 2x4s under the top so that the weight of the top is supported from below vs just via the slits in the top. Seems like an invitation for something to slip or just be an added strain on these moulded tops
I have actually thought about that. I didn't want to damage the moulding but I suppose moulding is cheaper than a new top. I don't leave it suspended in the air. As soon as it's lifted off the Bronco, I lover it to the ground on 2x4's. I have also used a couple ratchet straps and a safety backup. So far so good.
 

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Just one question. Are you sure this thing is safe?
I have actually thought about that. I didn't want to damage the moulding but I suppose moulding is cheaper than a new top. I don't leave it suspended in the air. As soon as it's lifted off the Bronco, I lover it to the ground on 2x4's. I have also used a couple ratchet straps and a safety backup. So far so good.
Thatā€™s probably pretty close to how Ford moves it around on the assembly line. Those slots are there for a reason. Would be cool if we could get a look at what Ford uses.
 

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Thatā€™s probably pretty close to how Ford moves it around on the assembly line. Those slots are there for a reason. Would be cool if we could get a look at what Ford uses.
Webasto may use those to move the top piece only to the mating process of the side panels but they most likely use all 4 slots even during that process. If Ford does use those to position to the truck body you are talking about a one time use with all 4 slots utilized to spread the load. I wonder what their official opinion would be if using them on a regular basis to remove the top and re-install , especially if using only two of the slots to support the whole load ? My gut feeling after seeing the flex is it's going to cause further issues with an already fragile bubbling, cracking top.
 

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Nice idea. I have the winch already from my jeep top hoist. I think there is enough room between the winch and the open garage door for my top and rack so I might try an attachment to the rack and lifting the whole thing that way.
 

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I have actually thought about that. I didn't want to damage the moulding but I suppose moulding is cheaper than a new top. I don't leave it suspended in the air. As soon as it's lifted off the Bronco, I lover it to the ground on 2x4's. I have also used a couple ratchet straps and a safety backup. So far so good.
Excellent!
 

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I use a strap from Custom Tie Downs with a ring in the middle and flat hooks on each end, got the idea from this thread https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/hard-top-hoist-with-2-contact-points-pics.62956/ . 4 door top is perfectly balanced when hooking into the front part of the rear slot. Hooks go in plenty far for good grip. No issues whatsoever, total cost less than $150 with my HF electric hoist. I do set the top on a cart and don't leave it hanging mainly due to it just moves around as it floats in the air if I leave it up. I also overthink everything but the rear shell on the 4 door is not heavy, have no issues after doing this many times.

Ford Bronco My DIY Homemade Hard Top Lift Ceiling Winch System 1714745255018-8q
 

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100%, that appears to be significant flex/stress and not designed for that lifting load.
Yeah looking at the pic and some of the others with the longer straps lead me to my design instead. The longer straps tend to create a tension effect and pull the sides of the MIC top inward. With the unistrut cage and short straps mine is literally just lifting and distributed across the 4 lift points. Coupled with the floating shelf it is not under tension for more than 10 minutes and less tension/pressure than a fully loaded roof rack. Definitely overkill, but not much I do isn't. LOL If you look closely you'll actually see that the front and rear straps are mounted inner or outer to account for the slight width difference in the top.
 

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I saw where you posted that you use this system to TEMPOARILY lift and set the top down on 2x4's, where you then move as you need/desire. Some of the items here I would change even for a temporary lift and would reconsider an alternate if hanging in-place for extended periods of time.

1. Assuming you have enough length, you should double your winch line. When I had my Jeep, I made my own lift and did a similar thing.

The HF winches has a spot on the winch body designed to accept the hook. Doing so DOUBLES your lifting capacity! Not that you need it necessarily, but you now have a higher factor of safety. Pic below is borrowed from @Johnny Mo and perfectly shows the double line configuration.

Ford Bronco My DIY Homemade Hard Top Lift Ceiling Winch System PXL_20231015_154000004


2. FYI, most people throw away their straps when they are cut and/or items get embedded in the webbing because strength is compromised. You managed to do both making your attachment connection. I would not recommend or do this. Spend the money and get the right strap.

3. I personally have reservations about using those slots to carry load. I have no data to support my reservations. But if I were to use them, I would use all 4 slots in conjunction to help spread the load more equally. Having less load on each isn't ever a bad thing. But honestly, given all the issues with the factory tops, I'm not sure the risk is worth the reward to even use them.

That last photo may be an optical illusion because you have the black on your homemade bracket, but it looks like it's separating.
 

Johnny Mo

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Will probably buy the Tie boss lift kit. Seems straight forward and easy for cheap. https://tieboss.com/products/tie-boss-hanger-sling
I have a few tie boss rigs for some other stuff suspended from the ceiling in the basement, the only issue I see with them is depending on your mounting angle vs lift angle, it is sometimes hard to keep the rope tight in the teeth area and lock off. Otherwise it's a pretty solid device.
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