Rock Jock Antirock sway bar kit released

[AntiMatterSAS]

Do you have the 74Weld steering rack or at the minimum bushings?

If not, you will destroy your rack with those tie rods.

I dont yet... never really been one to buy something just for the hell of it. I'll ride it out with what I have for now and replace parts as needed along the way. I daily drive my Bronco, got about 40K miles on it so far. Off-road at least once a month but here in Florida it's mostly trails nothing crazy like Moab. Don't take it the wrong way but most people think having a ton of expensive Parts on your rig makes you more capable, but it really all comes down to the driver, approach angle, departure angle and experience.

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[Aonarch]

I dont yet... never really been one to buy something just for the hell of it. I'll ride it out with what I have for now and replace parts as needed along the way. I daily drive my Bronco, got about 40K miles on it so far. Off-road at least once a month but here in Florida it's mostly trails nothing crazy like Moab. Don't take it the wrong way but most people think having a ton of expensive Parts on your rig makes you more capable, but it really all comes down to the driver, approach angle, departure angle and experience.

It isn’t about expensive.

I’d remove the sleeves, the tie rods are engineered to be the weak link in the chain. You will be transferring that duty to the racks internals instead.

Going from a $60 repair to a $2-3k repair.

 

[AntiMatterSAS]

It isn’t about expensive.

I’d remove the sleeves, the tie rods are engineered to be the weak link in the chain. You will be transferring that duty to the racks internals instead.

Going from a $60 repair to a $2-3k repair.

Okay so we may be having a misunderstanding here, you think I have tie rod sleeves?

 

[Aonarch]

Okay so we may be having a misunderstanding here, you think I have tie rod sleeves?

Sorry, the steer smart tie rods. They will cause the same issue.

 

[AntiMatterSAS]

Sorry, the steer smart tie rods. They will cause the same issue.

Okay so I'm open to listening to your options. I've learned a lot from being on this forum so maybe you can give me some insight. You seem to know something that I may not have learned yet. You said a $60 investment versus a $2,500 repair. What would be the $60 part or investment?

 

[Aonarch]

Okay so I'm open to listening to your options. I've learned a lot from being on this forum so maybe you can give me some insight. You seem to know something that I may not have learned yet. You said a $60 investment versus a $2,500 repair. What would be the $60 part or investment?

Simply replacing a bent tie rod versus the entire rack. Search around here. There is a huge thread on this topic.

 

[AntiMatterSAS]

I get what you're saying now, sorry for the misunderstanding as I'm coming off of a 14-hour work shift LOL

I looked at the 74 weld and I like it. Want to do some research and see what my options are but thanks for your Insight

 

[userdude]

I get what you're saying now, sorry for the misunderstanding as I'm coming off of a 14-hour work shift LOL

I looked at the 74 weld and I like it. Want to do some research and see what my options are but thanks for your Insight

There's an engineering term when the failure is put on a specific part to save the rest, just can't think of it.

I thought @Aonarch was talking about the metal bushing replacement, which I think is pretty cheap. HOSS 2.0 has plastic bushings. However, replacing the tie rod (the straight, inner?, one, not the crooked outer? ones) is economical if annoying if you will. Hence wanting to move the failure to a housing that's indestructible like 74Weld's rack with stronger tie rods (Ford's HD or Icons, etc.). IFS will never be as strong as straight axle in tire binds, so FYI.

I would check this video out, I think he does a great job of explaining what Aonarch is talking about.



More info:

 

[AntiMatterSAS]

There's an engineering term when the failure is put on a specific part to save the rest, just can't think of it.

I thought @Aonarch was talking about the metal bushing replacement, which I think is pretty cheap. HOSS 2.0 has plastic bushings. However, replacing the tie rod (the straight, inner?, one, not the crooked outer? ones) is economical if annoying if you will. Hence wanting to move the failure to a housing that's indestructible like 74Weld's rack with stronger tie rods (Ford's HD or Icons, etc.). IFS will never be as strong as straight axle in tire binds, so FYI.

I would check this video out, I think he does a great job of explaining what Aonarch is talking about.



More info:

I literally just watched this video 15 minutes ago and had an "Ah-ha" moment.... that's why I love these forums

 

[Aonarch]

I installed mine today. Additional body roll is MINIMAL. I have the OEM rear sway bar, which I highly recommend. Ford must be penny clinching leaving it out.

 

[Aonarch]

Update:

Additional body roll is very minimal and a non issue. I have the bar set to the middle hole as the instructions recommend.

The additional flex is immediately apparent. Even just going over a speed hump or a offcamber pull out, the Bronco is way more settled. Before with the stock sway bars, the Bronco would fight against flex, the factory front bar is beefy and not designed for offroad use.

My Ranger Tremor has thin sway bars from the factory (Thinner than standard Ranger), both front and rear, matched with the Fox shocks to flex out well. On the Ranger I've never thought about disconnecting the front for my usage.

 

[Snacktime]

Anyone confirm fitment with 37s yet and positive offset wheels? The instruction have been updated with interference with 35s.

 

[TEAMSLO]

Anyone confirm fitment with 37s yet and positive offset wheels? The instruction have been updated with interference with 35s.

Unfortunately I installed mine on 0 ET wheels with stock 35's before going 37s. No help here with positive offset wheels.

 

[Snacktime]

Unfortunately I installed mine on 0 ET wheels with stock 35's before going 37s. No help here with positive offset wheels.

The other issue is trusting the end links. Love Johnny Joints but this is a whole different animal.

 

[Frankie945]

Anyone confirm fitment with 37s yet and positive offset wheels? The instruction have been updated with interference with 35s.

You’ll need at least zero offset. Mine rubbed at full lock with 35s and stock Sasquatch wheels. I ended up putting 1.2wheel spacers on and added 37s with zero rubbing.
Here’s a pic before adding the wheel spacers. I couldn’t hold the wheel full lock while I took the pic but will give you an idea how close it was.(at full lock it does rub)

And on a side note. I did hear Rock Jock has the rear antirock done and it’s going through its testing. Don’t quote me but from what I’ve heard you need to buy the AFE exhaust to relocate the oem muffler to make room for it.

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