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Rock Krawler 1" inch leveling kit

saxguy09

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Looking to easily level my badlands Sasquatch but can’t find too much info on this specific kit…it’s simply a spacer that bolts to the bottom of the front strut.

Assuming I can press the shock studs out with a ball joint style press on the vehicle. What are the chances I’ll have enough room to get the 1 inch spacer in by only removing the sway bar link, tie rod, and UCA nut? Will the LCA drop enough without disjointing the axle? I don’t want to loosen the axle nut if I don’t have to…

thanks in advance.
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EGSquatched

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Interested in doing the same…
 

TLO

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From what I've heard, if the spacer is too big on the bottom, you'll have clearance issues to your CV.
I think the best spacer lift is the double spacer, small one on the bottom and small one on the top (that still allows you to use the 3 factory studs)
 

Rumbloki

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Possibly: Set stand/stands under frame. Raise control arm with jack. Set AutoZone rental spring compressor. Press out bolts, assuming the jaws reach over the control arm. Lower control arm. Add spacer and new bolts. Raise control arm to release spring compressor.

I haven't tried this, but have been thinking about the most efficient way to add the lower spacer.


Ford Bronco Rock Krawler 1" inch leveling kit 1711292376679-33
 

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Rydfree

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Looking to easily level my badlands Sasquatch but can’t find too much info on this specific kit…it’s simply a spacer that bolts to the bottom of the front strut.

Assuming I can press the shock studs out with a ball joint style press on the vehicle. What are the chances I’ll have enough room to get the 1 inch spacer in by only removing the sway bar link, tie rod, and UCA nut? Will the LCA drop enough without disjointing the axle? I don’t want to loosen the axle nut if I don’t have to…

thanks in advance.
I used the Rock Krawler level kit on my non-sas Badlands and you can do as you say but pressing the studs out was a bitch and a half for me. I ended up using a Air impact and a whole mess of profanity to get them pressed out. No other issues other than the difficulty in getting the studs out though and it leveled perfectly . I did remove the axle nut as it is no big deal and I worried less about any CV damage.
 

TLO

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I've seen at least 1 person unbolt the LCA at the chassis and the sway bar...
No need to disconnect axle, UCA ball joint, tierod, etc.
This was to get the entire shock out, which would make pressing out the studs a lot easier.
Of course, mark the alignment cam washers on the LCA first. And you really should be getting the alignment done afterwards anyway.
 

GI_Jo_Nathan

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I removed my LCA's when I did my struts. And honestly there's no reason not to. Like TLO above said, should definitely get an alignment either way.
 

DRC

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My experience removing the lower coil-over studs along with replacing the UCA's.
Tried using the air hammer with the coil-overs installed. The studs would not budge.
It was only the top 3 nuts left and a prytbar to remove the coil-overs, which I did.
Used this puller, OTC 7311A Pitman Arm Puller. Put the claws next to the head of the stud and tighten the wingnut bolts as tight as you can. Use an impact on the puller's center screw.
I had all 4 studs out with little effort in about 5 minutes.
:clap:
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