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Rock Slide Engineering install question

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Has anyone had issues with a gap between the gasket and the body of your Bronco? I have the slightest gap in the passenger side. It drives me nuts. Tried uninstalling the step and upon reinstall, the gap is still there. Mostly towards the front of the vehicle. Maybe half a mm to a mm. Is that where the washer idea comes in above?
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Anyone know why there isnt a cover for the bottom of the RSE housings where you can see the harness connections to the motors on both sides? The amount of crap that will get up in there is excessive. Already found clumps of mag chloride/sand mix up in there and havent taken it offroad yet as Im sure mud will collect up in there.
 

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Anyone know why there isnt a cover for the bottom of the RSE housings where you can see the harness connections to the motors on both sides? The amount of crap that will get up in there is excessive. Already found clumps of mag chloride/sand mix up in there and havent taken it offroad yet as Im sure mud will collect up in there.
I was thinking about 3D printing a cap cover and possibly make a silicone casting. A nylon 3D print might be good enough.
 

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Has anyone had issues with a gap between the gasket and the body of your Bronco? I have the slightest gap in the passenger side. It drives me nuts. Tried uninstalling the step and upon reinstall, the gap is still there. Mostly towards the front of the vehicle. Maybe half a mm to a mm. Is that where the washer idea comes in above?
I have the same problem, even after my "fix" below. I am prepared to loosen every bolt and try to suck the steps further in.

My initial problem was a big gap, caused by the "spacer plate" which the instructions clearly state to install first on the front of the pinch seam (at least on my 4dr). That plate interfered with the steps sealing against the body, and even bent the front pinch seam as I was tightening everything down:

Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220503_082523


The problem is that one bolt holding the plate on is hidden by the step, and I couldn't fix this interference as it stands because the slider couldn't be angled far enough down to get past the interference despite many attempts.

After thinking it through, I figured out that that spacer plate's hidden bolt could be removed if you use a flexible socket extension through a hole on the bottom of the slider. The allen bolt that isn't hidden can be removed easily. With this plate loose, and the slider loosened up enough to pull away from the body, you can slip the plate out towards the front, push the steps back to the body, then slide the plate in again to where it belongs, then tighten everything up in reverse.

I'm hoping I had a bad part, because this was pretty rediculous problem to encounter.


I was thinking about 3D printing a cap cover and possibly make a silicone casting. A nylon 3D print might be good enough.
This is a great idea. That's a problem I haven't even considered. I've been focused on making a mud "flap" that blocks the gap from the flare to the front of the steps. Failure so far. Might just put regular flaps on.
 

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I have a feeling this front plate is purely cosmetic to only cover the pinch weld and make the steps appear continuous thru here. Major pain in the ass to take everything off again. I can't tell what functional purpose it has? It doesn't even follow the contour of the wheel well all that well. Originally these plates were not with my order and I held up the build for a week just to get them. I wish I hadn't.

It should be an option and if the customer wanted to mask and paint that section with a durable bed liner paint or non-destructive plasti dip that might be the better way to go vs creating just enough interference to have a gap at the front of the bulb seal to only contact the body at the back.

Anybody else break paint with your socket to release those painted bolts?

I'm curious why they couldn't bring the step further forward to close the gap. Makes me wonder if the Jeep steps are the same in length and this is just a gap solution for the Bronco's.
 
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I have a feeling this front plate is purely cosmetic to only cover the pinch weld and make the steps appear continuous thru here. Major pain in the ass to take everything off again. I can't tell what functional purpose it has? It doesn't even follow the contour of the wheel well all that well. Originally these plates were not with my order and I held up the build for a week just to get them. I wish I hadn't.

It should be an option and if the customer wanted to mask and paint that section with a durable bed liner paint or non-destructive plasti dip that might be the better way to go vs creating just enough interference to have a gap at the front of the bulb seal to only contact the body at the back.

Anybody else break paint with your socket to release those painted bolts?

I'm curious why they couldn't bring the step further forward to close the gap. Makes me wonder if the Jeep steps are the same in length and this is just a gap solution for the Bronco's.
I broke a little paint and don't like that plate tightened up against 4“ paint. Made me a little sick.

You have me thinking about removing it and doing my own thing.
 

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I'm with you. I'm sure I could do it faster the next go around, but after this install I almost feel like somebody should be paying me to do it all over again. :)
 

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I wanted to thank those with the good information they have shared and @rtaylor on the body mount bolts.

1)Body Mount Bolts - I feel like this is a before you begin build 1st page notation that should acknowledge that the body mount bolts and the captured washers should be removed completely and as suggested use a small press or in my situation I ended up using a die grinder to knock off the first few flanges holding the washer in place. I'm cringing after I took the first few hits with my hammer and that washer wouldn't budge. The omission from RSE and the disclaimer around absolving themselves of any damage done to the bolts is not a good one.

2) If I we're to do it again I would lose the flat close out piece at the front of the steps and use a bedliner paint or plasti-dip to color those sections and get a better fit and finish. There should be a disclaimer that this piece is optional as it's purely cosmetic and could create an interference that doesn't make the steps sit flush to the body.

3) There's been no mention of the rear wheel well plastic trim piece that I assume people have removed altogether. Below is another possible option, but because I have already installed the steps in order to get to the 3rd screw under the step I would need to remove the steps in order to get a better fit for the closeout panel. It's a bit Mickey Mouse for now, but it'll work for now until I get up enough energy to remove the steps all over again.
Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220618_133338

Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220618_133347

Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220618_133401

Trimmed to fit
Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220620_183245

Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220620_190029

4) Sensor magnet wires - Minor detail if you have a dremel make a small notch in the plastic trim to allow those wires to pass thru. At least you won't be pinching wires when you step on the plastic trim.
Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220618_184542
Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220618_182749


5) Sensor- Do yourself a favor and sand off the top of the hole pattern above the sensor. You'll get a better fit and it looks better. (get rid of the sticker too)
Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question 20220618_172235


6) Be careful with the magnets. As I was slipping the one off it magnetized itself to the other side of the magnet pretty violently in so much that it snapped the magnet in half. Oi! It still works.

My expectations for this build was pretty high considering how much we paid for these things and these details could have been better.

There might be a reason we don't see too many install videos for the 2 door especially with that rear trim piece. Not sure if it's there on the 4 doors.

Anyway, hope that helps others as they are scratching their heads wondering if this is supposed to fit like this?

20220618_133651.jpg
 
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And drill out the pop rivets holding the badges. RSE isn't paying me to advertise their product. You are left with two tiny holes. Honestly I don't know why they have holes in the steps to begin with. It really should be clean. Something for another day if I feel compelled to body fill and paint.
 

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So I installed my first step and went to plug in the plugs before moving on. When I went to plug in the red/yellow wires I noticed that the wires on the step plug were opposite of the wiring harness (red into yellow and yellow into red). I thought I remembered reading something about that somewhere, but couldn't find anything. Anyways I found a video online and their wires were opposite too, but they also didn't report any wiring issues down the road so I'm assuming it's nothing to worry about.

I had to take care of some other stuff so I put the other side on hold for a little while. I have not put the fuse in or tested anything yet. Just wanted to see if anyone else noticed this. Here is a screenshot from the video showing what I was talking about.

Ford Bronco Rock Slide Engineering install question Screenshot_20220731-135104~3
 

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Adding more commentary here as I'm in the middle of my install right now -- my Wildtrak is in my driveway with the passenger rail on, driver's rail is all that is left to go.

My body bolts absolutely would not allow enough room to get the brackets on. Some well placed hammer shots also did not do the trick. So out they came, and grinded down the threads to free the washer. But now... the rear bracket still doesn't have quite enough room to fit properly between the body bolt and the step. It's the only one I can't line up.

The rear trim piece does not sit flush either. I took the trim bolts out to move the wheel well liner, but I don't have a further fix yet -- not a fan of this.

And the LED light wires do switch from red yellow to yellow red.
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