Subwoofer & Amp Install in B&O System (OuterBanks/LUX/Sasq/B&O/4dr) - Writeup DIY

[TahoeTexan]

Did the box or tube sound better?

If a custom box is done right (correct air volume, sealed or ported correctly, etc) if will sound better than a tube. Just my $0.02.

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[Area 51 Manley]

If a custom box is done right (correct air volume, sealed or ported correctly, etc) if will sound better than a tube. Just my $0.02.

I wish a company made some custom boxes for the Bronco rear cargo area

 

[TahoeTexan]

I wish a company made some custom boxes for the Bronco rear cargo area

I read that JL Audio is making a stealth enclosure. It will probably be $700-1000. MTI Acoustics makes a tailgate mount enclosure.
Personally, I'm making a 12" downfire enclosure and storage drawer combo that also levels the cargo with the backseat folded forward. I'll have a write once complete.

 

[Area 51 Manley]

Cool. I'll probably make a level deck as well. I want it hidden and protected so the cargo area can still be utilized.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

I read that JL Audio is making a stealth enclosure. It will probably be $700-1000. MTI Acoustics makes a tailgate mount enclosure.
Personally, I'm making a 12" downfire enclosure and storage drawer combo that also levels the cargo with the backseat folded forward. I'll have a write once complete.

I spoke to a JL rep last week at Expo West and he stated they haven't been able to get their hands on a bronco and/or long enough to complete the scans necessary to build and test fit the sub enclosure. If I didn't live so far away from south Florida now, I would drop it off to them for however long needed for free just to get the enclosure development rolling. He stated they may need to sell their JL and buy a Bronco to have it at their disposal. Ford provides manufacturers with exterior schematics/measurements but not the interior.

 

[RFMETZ]

For what it’s worth I have a JL 10” micro sub and it’s just okay. I don’t need a ton of base but I expected a bit more. I may swap it out and try MTI’s tailgate enclosure.

 

[BRBlue]

That looks like one hell of a boxed Cap on the bottom to me!

That’s a nuclear submarine reactor. No need for a capacitor.

 

[Boosted2.3L]

I just added a subwoofer to my Outer Banks w/ LUX & B&O Sounds system. In my opinion, the factory B&O sub is not very good. Perhaps just putting a new speaker in place of the factory sub would work, but I think the problem is more likely in the amp, but you wouldn't know until you tried it. It would be really hard to replace the factory amp, so adding an amp and connecting it to factor sub or aftermarket sub would be just as much work, so i opted for an additional sub. I may eventually tune the 8" factory sub to cover the midrange/higher low range frequencies.

I installed a 600W Alpine amp and a 10" Alpine subwoofer tube. All in about $250-300 with parts and wiring. It sounds incredible, i worked as a custom car audio installer and built several state competition winning vehicles... it's not a competition sound, but sounds great. This is my first post so hopefully this works, i'm adding some pics of the factory sub and wiring.

I used my AUX switch #6 for my remote wire, that way i can turn off the "extra" bass when necessary, without having to have a separate bass control knob. If you haven't wired any of your AUX switches yet, it's pretty easy. The hardest part is the glove box... the wires aren't long enough so getting both hands into the small space to splice them together was tough.

I installed a 8 AWG power wire from an empty battery post > new 40A fuse block > Driver's side firewall (gasketed hole already there, no drilling needed). Ran Power down drivers side under the door jams. Grounded near the amp on a factory grounding post. Installed a LOC from the factory wiring. There are four speaker wires going to the factory sub. My LOC had four speaker inputs. Because I've read that the factory B&O system tones down the subwoofer at higher volumes, I wanted a fuller sound without that downscaling. So i used the speaker wires from the Rear left speaker, and one of the pairs from the subwoofer. Ran RCA's from the LOC to the sub. Connect everything, and good to go. Total install time, about 4.5 hours.

Be very careful removing the rear panels. The clips are tricky. I didn't break any of the main clips, but did break some of the small ones. Putting it back together was not easy, and my softtop closure is tighter now.

Wiring:

Factory Sub & Amps (blue wires are my subwoofer > LOC splice)

DRIVER REAR Speaker Tie-in

Sub and amp installed:

Do you often drive with the top/doors off? If yes, do you still notice an improved bass and sound from other speakers? I ask because my use case is driving with everything off and still want to feel the base and hear loud sound. My 2016 Mustang has the Shaker audio upgrade and the bass sounds amazing even with windows down going 55MPH down the road. For reference, my music includes mainly electronic/bass heavy tracks along with rock n roll (high volume, heavy bass). Any suggestions with what I should install is greatly appreciated!!!

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