Sway Bar Delete on our 2-Door Base Bronco for better off-road performance

[Tooold]

on 37s, is anyone worried about the added droop with the sway bar disconnected? I overextended my driver side CV on Kings/37s with my sway bar connected! Full droop + coilovers = bad CV angles. I need a DIFF DROP bad!

Are you able to share more details about the issues you ran into? I'm no expert and trying to learn. When running with no sway bar links and or sway bar do our Broncos have binding, contact or other suspension issues? I've been told we could bind up and damage CV Axles, make contact with the sway bar if we just remove the links, some have said the sway bar can't pivot on the mounts by hand to practically/easily remove and reconnect the links when on a trail? Any lessons that can be shared about potential problems (stress on the rig) when wheeling OFF-ROAD with the sway bar disconnect would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you to anyone who has experience that can offer input.

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[Rkgzx9leftcoast]

Are you able to share more details about the issues you ran into? I'm no expert and trying to learn. When running with no sway bar links and or sway bar do our Broncos have binding, contact or other suspension issues? I've been told we could bind up and damage CV Axles, make contact with the sway bar if we just remove the links, some have said the sway bar can't pivot on the mounts by hand to practically/easily remove and reconnect the links when on a trail? Any lessons that can be shared about potential problems (stress on the rig) when wheeling OFF-ROAD with the sway bar disconnect would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you to anyone who has experience that can offer input.

I removed my end links from the A-arms and zip tied them to the sway bar last October when I was at Sand Hollow. I was stock Sasquatch suspension and 37s at the time. I had no issues doing this, mostly rock crawling trails. I did get more flex for making it over obstacles. With Stock suspension or minimal lift you shouldnt have an issue diconnecting the sway bar. ( it is basically just doing manually what you can do in a Badlands)

The end links are tight to get off, the trick I used even without jacking up the truck, was putting a pry bar or hammer handle under the sway bar and into one of the closest spring coils and prying up. It is tight, but you can get them out. I am going to add a sway bar disconnect kit to mine. If you do a lot of off road-ing and want to disconnect when you do...it will get old. I dont disconnect on most trails I run close to home.

If you have a lift kit , or aftermarket coils, you can have issues at full droop down. This is mostly CV binding at the bottom. You can check this by disconnecting your sway bar end links, jacking up the front of truck, taking one of the tires off and seeing if you can spin the hub/rotor without binding. If it seems like it is not spinning free or binding then you may have an issue with the CV at full droop.

 

[Dusty]

Are you able to share more details about the issues you ran into? I'm no expert and trying to learn. When running with no sway bar links and or sway bar do our Broncos have binding, contact or other suspension issues? I've been told we could bind up and damage CV Axles, make contact with the sway bar if we just remove the links, some have said the sway bar can't pivot on the mounts by hand to practically/easily remove and reconnect the links when on a trail? Any lessons that can be shared about potential problems (stress on the rig) when wheeling OFF-ROAD with the sway bar disconnect would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you to anyone who has experience that can offer input.

I think a diff drop is a good idea, even only an inch or so would be helpful in relieving the likelihood of cv bind at full droop. I think I'm getting close to that limit on mine, starting to hear a little clicking LOL.

 

[Tooold]

Thank you fellas for your insight. It is helpful and appreciated.

 

[Felix808]

Thanks @Dusty. I figured it would be little impact on the road with it removed. Ran my XJ 15+ years with the front & rear sway bars removed because I got tired of disconnecting them.

I wondered what the result would be with IFS, now we know .
If my sway-bar disconnect ever fails it's going to the dump, that thing is heavy & expensive

Thanks again

 

[Aonarch]

Do you have a rear sway bar?

I do not on my two door, but have the OEM one on order. I'm thinking the rear sway bar will greatly help reduce body roll with the front disconnected.

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-286100-101

I'm still debating going with the Rock Jock Anti Rock instead.

 

[Rkgzx9leftcoast]

Pretty good Video on IFS and Sway Bars front and rear. Interesting Results

 

[F150rubyred]

I removed my end links from the A-arms and zip tied them to the sway bar last October when I was at Sand Hollow.

Isn't this the way to go just zip tie A-arms and leave sway bar in place?? It would make it very easy if you want to reconnect your sway bar??

 

[wyobronco]

Is there a good diff drop solution out yet?

 

[Fordified1]

Is there a good diff drop solution out yet?

Not yet but a member here is working on a kit.

 

[Fordified1]

Isn't this the way to go just zip tie A-arms and leave sway bar in place?? It would make it very easy if you want to reconnect your sway bar??

Yes that’s what I did. The sway bar bushings are so stiff the sway bar stays in place. Only thing that makes it a little difficult is you have to hold the stud from turning to remove the lock nut, so you can’t just zip them off with an electric impact.
After driving ours a while disconnected, I just completely removed the sway bar like Dusty did. It takes a little getting used to. Ours is not a daily driver.

 

[wyobronco]

Not yet but a member here is working on a kit.

Ive got all the machinery to make a kit as well. I just havent wanted to dive into as it seems the aftermarket support is soo good something affordable will come out sooner than later.

 

[One more upgrade]

I think a diff drop is a good idea, even only an inch or so would be helpful in relieving the likelihood of cv bind at full droop. I think I'm getting close to that limit on mine, starting to hear a little clicking LOL.

I run the AntiRock in the front, with no rear sway bar, RCV CVs, diff drop, and 2.5 Fox coilovers. I 100% agree with OP; there is slightly more body roll on the road. For what I have gained off-road, I am very happy with the setup. If I remember, I will turn up the high-speed setting on my shocks and forget that I ever took the sway bars off.

 

[Dusty]

Isn't this the way to go just zip tie A-arms and leave sway bar in place?? It would make it very easy if you want to reconnect your sway bar??

Yes, for those who want to keep the sway bar, that's a viable way to temporarily disconnect it (but think you mistakenly said A-arms, you're actually zip-tying up the swayer links). For me, it made more sense to ditch it all together. Revisit my first post in the thread for my reasons why.

 

[LCW]

We just got home from a 4,200 mile road trip without the sway bar. LOTS of highway miles, side winds, head winds, twisty curves, heavy load for traveling, etc. Yes we felt slightly more body sway but we both just sort of got used to it. For the first few hundred miles into the trip I was wondering if I should have thrown the sway bar back on just for the road trip. But by a few hundred more miles I wasn't missing it at all. The biggest test was I-40 from Tucumcari to Amarillo in a thunderstorm at night with high winds, rain, shitty road surface, and semi trucks hauling ass as if it was sunny and calm. The cross winds and bow wake of the big rigs rocked us a little bit but not too bad. It will be rare that I'll be loaded that heavy and going on such long trips, but even for that rare situation it wasn't too bad. So the sway bar is staying off.

Ha! I've driven that stretch of I-40 in exact same conditions - high cross winds and after sunset... absolutely sucks. lol

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