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Sway-bar Disconnect Delete Challenge for all you Programmers

Felix808

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Bdbdbdbdbdbdbd UPDATE!!! Bdbdbdbdbdbdbd 11-3-23

So I was able to play around in the garage a little & here are my findings:
When you unplug it the only code / warning lights that come on is a message to service Sta-bar. You click the OK button it appears to be good. No DTC codes what so ever. Awesome!!!! Right ???

Not so fast my friends. A quick turn of the mode dial & no drive modes are available. Meh.
Shifts to 4L ( Forgot to try 4H & 4A) F& R Lockers Engauge, Trail turn assist lights up like it's going to work. Traction control pops up . Notification pops = Advance trac disabled ( Not sure if this is fully disabled, but I tried the hold the button to fully deactivate as shown by Loren & Vaughn but have never seen it work on my truck 🤷‍♂️ Anyway looks like the only real side effects are having to acknowledge the service light & the loss of any & all GOAT modes.

Can I live with that :unsure: Maybe if it came down to paying for a replacement & I prove the other functions in the field, but not right now.
So the challenge still stands 🤠

Here is a challenge for all you Programming Gurus:
Find how one can delete the automatic sway-bar without causing any trouble lights or other electronic adverse affects other than the difference in handling.

I'm getting tired of mucking with this thing every time I work on my axles. It would also be nice to have the ride smoothed out in 2H & 4H & not always having to be in 4L to disconnect. I also want to be ready for when this boat anchor dies as it is not light.

I've driven a decade plus with no sway-bars on my XJ as I got tired of disconnecting them all the time. I have no problem taking responsibility for my driving.

Can this be done...I hope so 🤠

Ford Bronco Sway-bar Disconnect Delete Challenge for all you Programmers 6%2F2021-Bronco-Stabilizer-Bar-Disconnect-1024x578
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GTS104

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Take it off and never look back!! Drives fine on the road.

20230917_215721.jpg
 
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Felix808

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Just cut the bars off and leave the motor hooked up
The idea is to get rid of the whole thing, programming and all. You can also just unbolt them so there is no need to cut them off unless they are frozen. But again, that is not the direction of this post.
 

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this is super super easy....just use the asbuilt on the ABS module from a very SIMILAR build as yours (powertrain, and gear ratio,) like a wildtrack WITHOUT sway bar disconnect and poof it should be gone.


since your interested in this you might as well write down the changes before and after (or use as built explorer)

and then you could tell us a list of possible changes that affect the swaybar, and those that want to add the OEM one to their build could then have part of the tools necessary.
 

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I'll program it for you for the old parts.

if forescan don't work., it could be a change in configuration and programming that has to be done in FDRS...(like the rack swap)
 
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Felix808

Felix808

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I'll program it for you for the old parts.

if forescan don't work., it could be a change in configuration and programming that has to be done in FDRS...(like the rack swap)
I should note, I'm running the Whipple Stage 1 tune. I have my tear tag info, but have not run Forscan since the tune.

this is super super easy....just use the asbuilt on the ABS module from a very SIMILAR build as yours (powertrain, and gear ratio,) like a wildtrack WITHOUT sway bar disconnect and poof it should be gone.


since your interested in this you might as well write down the changes before and after (or use as built explorer)

and then you could tell us a list of possible changes that affect the swaybar, and those that want to add the OEM one to their build could then have part of the tools necessary.
:unsure: I'll have to take a bit when I'm less tired to try to understand all that & then I may still have some questions.
 

Ducati1098

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this is super super easy....just use the asbuilt on the ABS module from a very SIMILAR build as yours (powertrain, and gear ratio,) like a wildtrack WITHOUT sway bar disconnect and poof it should be gone.
I think it’ll be a little more complicated than that.
The sway bar disconnect has its own independent module, the chassis control module, which communicates with 5 other modules over FD-CAN. Just changing the ABS as-built alone wouldn’t prevent multiple other modules from throwing warning messages/DTCs

That being said, I’m sure it can be done with the right amount of tinkering.
 

orion

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Unplug it and see what codes are thrown. Then see why/what module threw the code. Find a similar build without the auto swaybar and copy its modules settings to yours. ???
 

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Techun

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Just unbolt one end.
 

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I think it’ll be a little more complicated than that.
The sway bar disconnect has its own independent module, the chassis control module, which communicates with 5 other modules over FD-CAN. Just changing the ABS as-built alone wouldn’t prevent multiple other modules from throwing warning messages/DTCs

That being said, I’m sure it can be done with the right amount of tinkering.
wait your saying the swaybar is controlled by the CCM and not the ABS? interesting...
 

Ducati1098

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wait your saying the swaybar is controlled by the CCM and not the ABS? interesting...
Yep, CHCM or chassis control module.
The only thing the ABS supplies is wheel speed and drive mode data for the CHCM.
 
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Felix808

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Just unbolt one end.
Again, not the premise of this challenge. The idea is to:

1: Possibly eliminate it all together to simplify things.

2. Avoid paying for another one if & when it fails as they are not cheap.

Unplug it and see what codes are thrown. Then see why/what module threw the code. Find a similar build without the auto swaybar and copy its modules settings to yours. ???
I think I will try this to gather data of what becomes effected once removed physically from the system. might take a week or so before I can get to it, but will post the codes once I do 🤠 .

Yep, CHCM or chassis control module.
The only thing the ABS supplies is wheel speed and drive mode data for the CHCM.
Thank you for your insight as always @Ducati1098.
 

Techun

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Again, not the premise of this challenge. The idea is to:

1: Possibly eliminate it all together to simplify things.

2. Avoid paying for another one if & when it fails as they are not cheap.



I think I will try this to gather data of what becomes effected once removed physically from the system. might take a week or so before I can get to it, but will post the codes once I do 🤠 .


Thank you for your insight as always @Ducati1098.
I don't understand. If you want to simplify things why not just disconnect it...that seems the most simple to me.
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