TrailRax Accessories and Mounts

[BostonSasquatch]

This install idea of mine is for a 4-Door Badlands MIC hardtop with a full-length TrailRax rack + RotoPax.

I'm planning on upgrading lighting three ways: 1) Replace the OEM dome light with the Mabbett LED; this is plug & play, should be no problem. 2) Adding the Mabbett 4-way interior side-ceiling lights, which is also plug and play, and 3) running a wire from here to the exterior to power a set of four (two each side) Heretic "dome" lights (see below) which I'll mount on the rails of my TrailRax roof carrier. My question is mainly about #3. Here's my plan, and I'm interested in your thoughts, suggestions, and maybe warnings. Bear in mind I don't know proper electrical terms--bear with me!

1) I remove the plastic covers from the roll bar. What's the best pry spot for removal? Inside, I'm looking for a wire to splice onto for full-time power (current) Can anybody identify such a wire? I splice two wires onto this. One I will feed to the driver side; the other to passenger.
2) After removing my RotoPax, I loosen or remove the forward clamshell clamp/bracket that supports the carrier. I snake a wire under the edge of the MIC hardtop, through the rubber, and feed it up to the inside edge of the roof carrier rail (driver and passenger side mirror each other).
3) Having arrived at the exterior, this (these) wire(s) will be kept out of sight and harm's way underneath the clamshell clamp-bracket when I replace it.
4) I T-splice this wire: one leg will run rearwards, about 12 inches, and the other will run forward about 4 feet. (Thus, one lamp over the rear tire; the other over the front doors.) Tidy up the T-splice with weather-proof shrink tubing.
5) These two wires (rearward and forward) will be run to the Heretic Dome lights, which I can bolt to handy slots in the side rails.
5-A) Test the system!
6) Replace the TrailRax clamp-bracket, positioning the feed wire(s) underneath it The foam padding should keep the supply wire well protected. Tighten up and secure the wires inside the TrailRax side rails away from wind and the elements. Replace RotoPax. Replace interior plastic panels.

Here's the Heretic dome light: It's exterior grade (IP68), each one with its own function button. At only 600 lumens (about the power of a 60-watt incandescent bulb), I want four, two on each side. The lights must be run parallel, not in series--hence, two wires splitting off from the "T," once it reaches the outside. At 6W and .4A, I don't think I'll overburden any circuit.

https://www.hereticstudio.com/products/led-dome-light?_pos=1&_sid=29198b35d&_ss=r#features

So, thoughts and suggestions--and warnings?

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[cr117]

This install idea of mine is for a 4-Door Badlands MIC hardtop with a full-length TrailRax rack + RotoPax.

I'm planning on upgrading lighting three ways: 1) Replace the OEM dome light with the Mabbett LED; this is plug & play, should be no problem. 2) Adding the Mabbett 4-way interior side-ceiling lights, which is also plug and play, and 3) running a wire from here to the exterior to power a set of four (two each side) Heretic "dome" lights (see below) which I'll mount on the rails of my TrailRax roof carrier. My question is mainly about #3. Here's my plan, and I'm interested in your thoughts, suggestions, and maybe warnings. Bear in mind I don't know proper electrical terms--bear with me!

1) I remove the plastic covers from the roll bar. What's the best pry spot for removal? Inside, I'm looking for a wire to splice onto for full-time power (current) Can anybody identify such a wire? I splice two wires onto this. One I will feed to the driver side; the other to passenger.
2) After removing my RotoPax, I loosen or remove the forward clamshell clamp/bracket that supports the carrier. I snake a wire under the edge of the MIC hardtop, through the rubber, and feed it up to the inside edge of the roof carrier rail (driver and passenger side mirror each other).
3) Having arrived at the exterior, this (these) wire(s) will be kept out of sight and harm's way underneath the clamshell clamp-bracket when I replace it.
4) I T-splice this wire: one leg will run rearwards, about 12 inches, and the other will run forward about 4 feet. (Thus, one lamp over the rear tire; the other over the front doors.) Tidy up the T-splice with weather-proof shrink tubing.
5) These two wires (rearward and forward) will be run to the Heretic Dome lights, which I can bolt to handy slots in the side rails.
5-A) Test the system!
6) Replace the TrailRax clamp-bracket, positioning the feed wire(s) underneath it The foam padding should keep the supply wire well protected. Tighten up and secure the wires inside the TrailRax side rails away from wind and the elements. Replace RotoPax. Replace interior plastic panels.

Here's the Heretic dome light: It's exterior grade (IP68), each one with its own function button. At only 600 lumens (about the power of a 60-watt incandescent bulb), I want four, two on each side. The lights must be run parallel, not in series--hence, two wires splitting off from the "T," once it reaches the outside. At 6W and .4A, I don't think I'll overburden any circuit.

https://www.hereticstudio.com/products/led-dome-light?_pos=1&_sid=29198b35d&_ss=r#features

So, thoughts and suggestions--and warnings?

I'd be nervous about using a "full-time" power for lights as they could drain your battery overnight if accidentally left on. Regardless, I don't believe there is any wiring in the cabin area that remains hot when the vehicle's turned off. I'd probably look into wiring in a fuse tap on the 12v lighter circuit. I believe this stays on for up to an hour after the vehicle is turned off.

 

[BostonSasquatch]

I'd be nervous about using a "full-time" power for lights as they could drain your battery overnight if accidentally left on. Regardless, I don't believe there is any wiring in the cabin area that remains hot when the vehicle's turned off. I'd probably look into wiring in a fuse tap on the 12v lighter circuit. I believe this stays on for up to an hour after the vehicle is turned off.

You have a point, and thanks. Perhaps the battery management system (chip) would simply shut it down if it sensed too much battery depletion? These are very low amperage lights--.4A. In an email, Heretic's Samuel Williams (Sales Acct. Manager) wrote me, "You can simply wire them up! They pull very very low amperage at around .4A per light, so no fuse or relay will be required (depending on how many you are running of course). " I'd probably be using only two on one side at a time, depending upon my needs.

 

[cr117]

You have a point, and thanks. Perhaps the battery management system (chip) would simply shut it down if it sensed too much battery depletion? These are very low amperage lights--.4A. In an email, Heretic's Samuel Williams (Sales Acct. Manager) wrote me, "You can simply wire them up! They pull very very low amperage at around .4A per light, so no fuse or relay will be required (depending on how many you are running of course). " I'd probably be using only two on one side at a time, depending upon my needs.

In terms of wire access, if you didn't want to run your own wire, you could use the aux wire that comes out just above the windshield (assuming it's not already in use). That would allow you to avoid having to snake it up the rear pak rax.

 

[BostonSasquatch]

In terms of wire access, if you didn't want to run your own wire, you could use the aux wire that comes out just above the windshield (assuming it's not already in use). That would allow you to avoid having to snake it up the rear pak rax.

That occurred to me, but I have only one aux left and I'm saving it. Besides, all the front wiring (A-pillar especially) intimidates me. I'd rather take it off a hot wire, and just be prudent about my power usage. The 12V rear wheel cigarette-lighter/cargo light, if there's a 1-hour timer, makes sense, except I'd have to run wire from that up the B-pillar to (and across, for the driver's side hookup) the rollbar. What would take you an hour would take me three!
Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Bird Dog Off Road]

So far, I have the obvious 2 Rotopax water tanks on the passenger side Pakrax.
I have a dual row LED light bar mounted perfectly in the cutout of the wind deflector.

Above the rear window on the side of the TRMR, I have a fire extinguisher mounted to a quick release (not in pictures, did that recently right before sending car to the beautician).

Also have a 3 gal gas Rotopax on the tailgate with the Hammerbuilt kit, which is irrelevant here, but just offering ideas:

I have quick release limb risers from @GearShade that I have mounted to the top of the TRMR.
I like this method much more than using the instructed roof rack mounting points. Gearshade took my original cables back and remade them to account for the increased length. Just awesome to work with.

Now, the things I'm waiting for from Trailrax:

1) The slide out table that mounts underneath the cross bars through the back. I've come to realize that my rollup/folding table takes up the most room inside of the cabin. Due to the size, it's the first thing that needs to be packed, but also the first thing that needs to be unpacked. This creates quite a disturbance in my methodology of organizing. This was revealed at SEMA and I want it NOW.

2) Grab handles with built in lighting is probably not essential but would be pretty helpful, especially after I install the RTT. Only issue for me is that I don't know where I would route the wiring for the power.

3) This is already available on the Trailrax site, but the shovel/axe carrier seems like a no brainer for extended trips into the jungle. The Pakrax accessories are easy enough to take off so this would be a "when needed" type of deal.

4) Thinking a Waterport pressurized sprayer might be another good option for one side of the railing, and an awning on the other. One of the SEMA vendors had a pretty cool awning on display, the James Baroud Falcon.

5) The most obvious, and probably the most expensive, is the RTT. I've been searching and searching, but the size of my 2 door is really making it difficult because I don't want any overhang, and the ones that fit are not what I'm looking for. I'd want one that has a hard shell so that I can mount a solar panel to it to charge various items.

I'm trying to build an overlander, so your needs may be different, but just wanted to share what I thought were pretty neat.

Just curious, but can you open the hood now with those limb risers spread out farther? Also, do you remember the exact length they had to increase them too? I just installed my rack, and these would be super useful when wheeling in UP of Michigan.

 

[mikeeshim]

Just curious, but can you open the hood now with those limb risers spread out farther? Also, do you remember the exact length they had to increase them too? I just installed my rack, and these would be super useful when wheeling in UP of Michigan.

I had them extended 5" total on each cable.
However, the hood will not open with them attached, but they're really easy to unclip from the trail sights so it's not a big deal at all. Even the link at the top is easy to remove, and the limb risers are currently in the back of my Bronco.
I am planning on removing the RTT, roof rack, and entire roof soon.

 

[Gluestick]

Anybody got a good recommendation for a rubber “plug” strip or insert to fill the unused channels and reduce wind buffeting?

 

[Fishwrinkle]

specialty hardware store like fastenal or the such should stock/obtain plastic strips that snap into extruded aluminum. not sure of the color selection though

 

[Gluestick]

I’m interested in mounting a Hi Lift Jack horizontally across the back of the rack above the rear tailgate window - looks like enough roof when lifting glass to avoid impact.

the rear cross bar has a single channel facing the rear. Does anyone know of a capable bracket setup that could mount from that single channel rear face of the cross bar?

Perhaps the Hi Lift Trail Trak Mounting system brackets?

anyone got first hand experience with something like that or the Rhino Rack brackets?

not sure if there are other options, but I need the top to be reserved for roam cases and such.

 

[cr117]

I’m interested in mounting a Hi Lift Jack horizontally across the back of the rack above the rear tailgate window - looks like enough roof when lifting glass to avoid impact.

the rear cross bar has a single channel facing the rear. Does anyone know of a capable bracket setup that could mount from that single channel rear face of the cross bar?

Perhaps the Hi Lift Trail Trak Mounting system brackets?

anyone got first hand experience with something like that or the Rhino Rack brackets?

not sure if there are other options, but I need the top to be reserved for roam cases and such.

Would these work? https://prinsu.com/product/prinsu-universal-high-lift-jack-mount/

In combination with 4 of these (mounted either above/below that back rail):https://www.tnutz.com/product/cb-010-a-black/

 

[BostonSasquatch]

I've slid 12-20 stainless T-nuts into every (every!) track on my Trailrax slots, and carry a small organizing bin which contains a number of different 12-20 bolts of different lengths and with different heads (carriage, button, counter-sink, etc.) Also O-rings with 1/2-inch threaded post, along with threaded posts of 3-inch, 4-inch, and 5-inch lengths. I can secure just about any kind of gear or holding device to my rack, then disassemble it all for daily drive.

I searched amazon for "hi lift jack mount" and found all sorts of systems. I like this: I can bolt it to the T-nuts in my crossbar slots, secure the farm jack (proper term, btw) to these brackets, then remove the whole system when I return to civilization.

It's designed to go on the hood of a Jeep, but I see no reason I can't put it up on my Trailrax.

https://www.amazon.com/Lockable-Brackets-1944-1986-1997-2006-1987-1995/dp/B07L4S7BMN/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1Z80481OX1U2&keywords=hi+lift+jack+mount&qid=1693026672&s=automotive&sprefix=hi+lift+jack,automotive,112&sr=1-6

Now look at this--designed for a tube frame of a Razor or ATV. No reason you can't discard the U-bolts, then use button-head 12-20 bolts to secure to a T-nut in the crossbar slot. Now that I think about it, I like this better!

Don't over complicate things, boys!

 

[hellahella]

I was able to install the Kammok Crosswing awning, a set of their vertical brackets and a pair of the Trailrax low profile 90 degree bracket. By far my favorite awning I've ever owned.

I also got my RTT up using the tent quick connects because I needed 1.5 inches of clearance because of those 90 degree brackets.

Can you pls confirm and possibly take a picture of the FrontRunner quick release working on your TRMR rack? Thanks

 

[mikeeshim]

Can you pls confirm and possibly take a picture of the FrontRunner quick release working on your TRMR rack? Thanks

So it looks like this up top:

And the bottom of the RTT looks like this:

The round bits under the RTT slide into the slot on the racks, and the silver parts clip lock the whole thing together to get this:

According to Trailrax, if I install the RTT further back, it'll help with wind noise, so I'm gonna give that a go once my fractured ribs heal, which was a byproduct of labor day weekend.

All in all, having these clips makes removing the tent to easy that I take it off when I'm not using it, and only put them on when it's time for a multi day exploration trip. The mileage is horrible with the RTT so I don't need to lug that around every day.

 

[hellahella]

So it looks like this up top:

And the bottom of the RTT looks like this:

The round bits under the RTT slide into the slot on the racks, and the silver parts clip lock the whole thing together to get this:

According to Trailrax, if I install the RTT further back, it'll help with wind noise, so I'm gonna give that a go once my fractured ribs heal, which was a byproduct of labor day weekend.

All in all, having these clips makes removing the tent to easy that I take it off when I'm not using it, and only put them on when it's time for a multi day exploration trip. The mileage is horrible with the RTT so I don't need to lug that around every day.

Amazing. Thanks so much! I have a Trailrax ordered but haven’t really found info for quick release compatibility. My CVT softshell rtt doesn’t fit in the garage when mounted so this is a def need . Hope you get well soon too

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