Transmission crossmember braces - improve or remove?

[VoltageDrop]

Yep, I assure you the engineers didn’t put those there because they “do nothing”.

Are these different engineers than the ones in charge of Project Dipstick?

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[Tex]

Once I get my welder going again, I'll be fabbing up a set of braces that go from the swaybar bearing bolt holes to the center of the crossmember like the originals, but at the same height as the crossmember as opposed to being rock anchors. The triangulation is going to be a little different (more of an acute angle) so I might compensate for that by welding the two braces together with some sheet and turning it into a single piece triangular shaped skidplate for the trans. I've long since removed my swaybar so it seems like an ideal spot to bolt up to, and I want it all to be easily removable. Once I've got all that business sorted and no unforeseen problems have been introduced, the stock forward brace mounts are going to taste the plasma cutter of shameful engineering.

 

[RubyRedGT]

@broadicustomworks Did you ever fill in your crossmember braces with UHMWPE? If so, how has that worked out?

 

[broadicustomworks]

@broadicustomworks Did you ever fill in your crossmember braces with UHMWPE? If so, how has that worked out?

Worked out great!
Slides right off of rocks.

 

[RubyRedGT]

Worked out great!
Slides right off of rocks.

Nice ok! Thanks. I think I’ll embark soon on a similar project.

 

[RubyRedGT]

@broadicustomworks I like your solution on the inset nuts. If you don’t mind me asking, what size and where did you get those and the flush bolts? Thanks!

 

[broadicustomworks]

@broadicustomworks I like your solution on the inset nuts. If you don’t mind me asking, what size and where did you get those and the flush bolts? Thanks!

I got the inserts and bolts from Amazon. (going to grab links to paste below).

This riv-nut tool has been one of the best purchases ever. I don't even know what society did prior to the invention of them.
I've used it for this, to mount covers underhood on projects, to mount screwdriver holders to a metal cabinet, all sorts of things.


Bolts (I drilled the holes in the UHMW and when tightened down these sunk in nice and slightly countersunk so no snagging of hardware):
Amazon.com: The Hillman Group 45018 3/8 x 1-3/4-Inch Stainless Steel Flat Socket Cap Screw, 8-Pack : Industrial & Scientific

Rivet nut tool set w/ inserts:
Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit - Metric & SAE W/ 60pc Rivnuts (amazon.com)

 

[RubyRedGT]

@broadicustomworks Awesome, thank you, much appreciated! I like this material. Just installed 1/2" UHMWPE body lift pucks yesterday.

 

[broadicustomworks]

@broadicustomworks Awesome, thank you, much appreciated! I like this material. Just installed 1/2" UHMWPE body lift pucks yesterday.

If you need a hand, or just don't want to purchase the $80 rivnut tool for that use (you may want it anyway for other stuff), let me know.
You can come by the shop and we will cut the UHMW, drill, install rivnuts with the tool I have, and install one Saturday or Sunday.
I'm about 30 minutes NE of Winston Salem.
I used 1/2" UHMW, by the way.
I ordered one piece 6"X24" below:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFL9M1B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[RubyRedGT]

If you need a hand, or just don't want to purchase the $80 rivnut tool for that use (you may want it anyway for other stuff), let me know.
You can come by the shop and we will cut the UHMW, drill, install rivnuts with the tool I have, and install one Saturday or Sunday.
I'm about 30 minutes NE of Winston Salem.
I used 1/2" UHMW, by the way.
I ordered one piece 6"X24" below:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFL9M1B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! I’ll PM you for more details.

 

[Tex]

Rivnuts can technically be installed with just a nut and bolt, though using the intended tool is way easier. You would thread a nut on the bolt all the way to the hex, then install the rivnut on the bolt until threads are showing on the other side. Turn the nut down until it contacts the rivnut, place the assembly in the hole you want it in, and while holding the bolt stationary with a wrench, tighten the nut in a clockwise direction with another. It helps if you have a washer between the nut and rivnut and some thread oil, but it's not necessary. Keep tightening until you feel it start to bottom out, that's when you know you've fully deformed the rivnut. Loosen the nut, and the bolt should still be hand tight or close to it...your rivnut is ready to use.

I've found that when installing a rivnut, it's good to have a hole that isn't perfectly smooth and round. Take a small chisel and tap some locking "teeth" into the ID of the hole, so that when you go to loosen a tight bolt, the rivnut is less likely to spin. If you notice, the shank of the rivnut that mushrooms out has some splines on it, that's to help grip the hole when you install it...the teeth marks you put on the hole will help those splines grip better. Nothing sucks worse than a rivnut that lost its grip, you gotta drill that puppy out. Hexagonal rivnuts do exist that eliminate spinning entirely, but you have to make a hexagonal hole in your stuff too...not something most people can do at home. However you go about it, rivnuts are super useful and you'll wonder why you didn't start using these things years ago.


Also, transfer screws can help when locating the holes in the UHMW skidplate. Or any material really, you could easily make your own removable skidplates using existing bolt holes and drilling your own sheetmetal. They're pretty handy to have around the shop.

https://www.amazon.com/LittleMachin...b6-beb8-083bcce1f8e2&pd_rd_i=B09BK85WCK&psc=1

 

[swooshdave]

Worked out great!
Slides right off of rocks.

Did you heat it up to bend it or did it deform when you bolted it in?

 

[broadicustomworks]

Did you heat it up to bend it or did it deform when you bolted it in?

It took shape once tightened down.
I had some lip damage and curvature noted like the guy in the other thread.
Ground down the kinked edges, used a crescent wrench and some oomph to try and straighten out what I could easily before bolting it up. Also painted all of the gouged/exposed metal (pretty much the entirety of both braces) before install to try and at least limit the rust forming under the UHMW.
Figure I'll unbolt the UHMW this summer when I have some downtime and verify no rust has started yet.

 

[swooshdave]

It took shape once tightened down.
I had some lip damage and curvature noted like the guy in the other thread.
Ground down the kinked edges, used a crescent wrench and some oomph to try and straighten out what I could easily before bolting it up. Also painted all of the gouged/exposed metal (pretty much the entirety of both braces) before install to try and at least limit the rust forming under the UHMW.
Figure I'll unbolt the UHMW this summer when I have some downtime and verify no rust has started yet.

So if I get the UHMW on before hitting the trails it will be easier to get on?

 

[broadicustomworks]

So if I get the UHMW on before hitting the trails it will be easier to get on?

Lol for sure. Less messy (think prep work) guaranteed.

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