'Ultimate Stereo Upgrade' Thread

[annieVonBebop]

How does it sounds with only tweeters in the dash? I'm considering this option as well but was wondering if it would be too bright. I'm just concerned the full range from the 6.5s in the kick panel won't make it up to your ears as they are firing into your shins, if that makes any sense.

It sounds great with just the tweeters! The owner really emphasized getting the sound stage right and they knocked it out of the park. The EQ is set with the treble pulled down a bit and I haven't noticed much brightness even blasting 00s pop punk with the top down. The low end from the kickers comes thru great too and it's all quite balanced

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[BadK22]

It sounds great with just the tweeters! The owner really emphasized getting the sound stage right and they knocked it out of the park. The EQ is set with the treble pulled down a bit and I haven't noticed much brightness even blasting 00s pop punk with the top down. The low end from the kickers comes thru great too and it's all quite balanced

Awesome! Well that is the route I will go as well. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Rem234]

I had posted mine in a separate thread, but here it is again as well:

Total cost $1,135 USD + lots of my own labor hours LOL

Infinity Reference REF-4030CFX (4 of them)
Rockford Fosgate P1675-S 6 3/4 components
Wave Tech link 4 line out converter
Rockford Fosgate T1000X5ad 5 channel amp
JL Audio CS112LG-TW3 12" Sub in sealed box
T-Spec 4 ga. wiring and RCAs

Rather than purchase adapters for the 6.75 I made my own from 1/2 thick plastic. The stock kick panel speaker is a 6.5", but there is plenty of depth and space for the 6.75 to fit. As these were the only ones my local shop had in stock, I went with them. I did trim the back of the kick panel trim grill area (see photo) to ensure that the speaker would not touch as it travels. I mounted the tweeters to the dash top grills.
The amp is running like this:
2 channels - 4" Infinitys in the dash
2 channels - 6.75 components
1 channel - JL 12" at 2 ohms

I left the rear speakers running off the stock head unit and they only provide some minor rear fill. I tapped the kick panel speaker wiring (under the head unit) to feed the Wave Tech line out converter, mounted under the steering column. From there two sets of RCAs feed the amp mounted in the rear fender area.
The link 4 has a remote level knob that controls the sub volume and it is mounted under the dash (see photo).
I mounted the fuse to the lid of the fuse box under the hood and ran the 4 ga. wire down the drivers side and then across the back behind the seat, following the factory wiring harness. The RCAs, speaker, and remote wires are routed down the passenger side.
Originally I tired using the factory ground location towards the top rear of the fender area. This provided a lot of ground loop feedback so I ended up moving it to the location shown in the photo closer to the seat belt.
I cut the carpet off the sub box and coated it with two coats of Herculiner truck bed coating. I machined two custom t-slot nuts that fit into the oval cut outs in the tailgate. I used these two t-slot nuts and three rivet nuts across the top in existing factory holes to attach the box to the tailgate using five 1/4-20 bolts. Since the tailgate is not flat I placed some 3/16 thick rubber between the box and tailgate. I ran the wires to the sub inside of the factory wire loom and then close to the box brought them out into their own loom for a factory look.
The amp is mounted to a board attached to the fender using three existing studs in the fender. Everything is in loom or protective sleeve where it could be exposed to movement or wear. I removed practically every interior panel to complete this job and only managed to break one clip, and that was on the dash speaker grill after the third time taking it out.
Thank you to all of you who have posted photos and information on here to help me educate myself before I started the project. This system is overkill and is clear and loud enough that cruising with the top off is going to be awesome!

 

[j_anderson]

Check out MTI Acoustics out of Texas - they have made tons of custom under seat boxes for trucks and now have a few things out for Bronco -

-----Our HDPE amp rack bolts in to three OEM spots, with our included aluminum hardware for the lower points.

With spacing on the front and back, enjoy a handy spot for your amp(s) and integration pieces or distribution blocks.

I was thinking of making a plate like this to mount a shallow powered sub . Remove the cubby and attach a speaker grille in its place. Really just waiting a bit to see what the aftermarket can come up with. I'd like to see a powered sub in the shape of the factory sub to bolt into the factory spot. or do similar to what @cmcbronco did

 

[Wolfeman]

I was thinking of making a plate like this to mount a shallow powered sub . Remove the cubby and attach a speaker grille in its place. Really just waiting a bit to see what the aftermarket can come up with. I'd like to see a powered sub in the shape of the factory sub to bolt into the factory spot. or do similar to what @cmcbronco did

I'm actually pretty happy with the setup from B&O but really need to get some sound deadening material and spent some time back there. Most reports from others that have done the same have showed great improvement.

The kid in me wants to add a better sub to the factory enclosure but the adult in me says it's probably just fine the way it is. Either way, the kid in me keeps looking at this subsection on the forum so I'm sure there will be minor changes along the way.

 

[j_anderson]

I'm actually pretty happy with the setup from B&O but really need to get some sound deadening material and spent some time back there. Most reports from others that have done the same have showed great improvement.

The kid in me wants to add a better sub to the factory enclosure but the adult in me says it's probably just fine the way it is. Either way, the kid in me keeps looking at this subsection on the forum so I'm sure there will be minor changes along the way.

I don't have the B&O system so I def need to add something to fill out the low end.

 

[ChrisB351]

Check out MTI Acoustics out of Texas - they have made tons of custom under seat boxes for trucks and now have a few things out for Bronco -

https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.html#!/Bronco-Products/c/127527773

That's right, the company that brought you the first made to order truck enclosures and A-Pillars is back with another killer creation! This time for the new Bronco platform.

-----Our MDF enclosure, featuring an industrial-grade, spray-on, textured finish. This extremely rugged high sheen coating allows for easy cleanup after your off-road adventures (or trips to Starbucks).

Features:
-Full MDF construction
1/2" with enough internal bracing to withstand a small hurricane
-3.5" Mounting depth
-0.80cu foot internal volume
-Mounts with OEM hanger points and two nutsert locations (Hardware included)
-Can be purchased standalone, or with a subwoofer (which gets you a 15% discount....ohhhhh yeah)

-----Our HDPE amp rack bolts in to three OEM spots, with our included aluminum hardware for the lower points.

With spacing on the front and back, enjoy a handy spot for your amp(s) and integration pieces or distribution blocks.

What size sub is that tailgate box made for? I currently have a JL stealthbox in my jeep wrangler with a 13" shallow mount. Id like to reuse that sub with a new box if possible. Would that work? I believe the airspace is about 1ft.

 

[Wolfeman]

What size sub is that tailgate box made for? I currently have a JL stealthbox in my jeep wrangler with a 13" shallow mount. Id like to reuse that sub with a new box if possible. Would that work? I believe the airspace is about 1ft.

The box is $400.00 and you can add on any of the subs below, so I'd assume anything 8-12 inches
as long as the depth is less than 3.5"


Subwoofer add on (discount applied to enclosure itself)



JL Audio 10TW3-D4 (+$369.99)

JL Audio 10TW3-D8 (+$369.99)

JL Audio 12TW3-D4 (+$419.99)

JL Audio 12TW3-D8 (+$419.99)

JL Audio 13TW5v2-4 (+$769.99)

Kicker L7T 8" dual 2ohm (+$139.99)

Kicker L7T 8" dual 4ohm (+$139.99)

Kicker Comp RT 8" dual 2ohm(+$109.99)

Kicker Comp RT 8" dual 4ohm(+$109.99)

Focal Flax P25FSE 10" (+$319.99)

Focal Flax P20FSE 8" (+$289.99)

 

[Lurker B6G]

When I get my Bronco...

After reading a million posts about "full range sound in the back", I am no longer interested in perusing this avenue at all (no Forscan, no flashing for JBL, no nothing). In fact, I am currently considering eliminating the rear "pods" from the equation entirely (as in remove them until it comes time to sell).

I was thinking about the little Kicker Key to bi-amplify either JL or RF speakers up front (been done before mounted under the steering column). And feeding from the front signal either a powered or separately amplified JL subwoofer (8-10 inch) in the back or more likely on the tailgate. Worst part will be chasing out the stock 6.5's.

End result - Front sound stage and more open feeling in the back. But I will change my plans three times before it comes.

 

[Wolfeman]

I was thinking of making a plate like this to mount a shallow powered sub . Remove the cubby and attach a speaker grille in its place. Really just waiting a bit to see what the aftermarket can come up with. I'd like to see a powered sub in the shape of the factory sub to bolt into the factory spot. or do similar to what @cmcbronco did

Their instagram page also notes that they are working on a sub enclosure for the cargo floor area.

 

[BadSquatch77]

Just got mine back from the shop. 10" Audison prima subwoofer, Arc audio X2 amp with bass knob mounted in the dash.

 

[ChrisB351]

The box is $400.00 and you can add on any of the subs below, so I'd assume anything 8-12 inches
as long as the depth is less than 3.5"


Subwoofer add on (discount applied to enclosure itself)



JL Audio 10TW3-D4 (+$369.99)

JL Audio 10TW3-D8 (+$369.99)

JL Audio 12TW3-D4 (+$419.99)

JL Audio 12TW3-D8 (+$419.99)

JL Audio 13TW5v2-4 (+$769.99)

Kicker L7T 8" dual 2ohm (+$139.99)

Kicker L7T 8" dual 4ohm (+$139.99)

Kicker Comp RT 8" dual 2ohm(+$109.99)

Kicker Comp RT 8" dual 4ohm(+$109.99)

Focal Flax P25FSE 10" (+$319.99)

Focal Flax P20FSE 8" (+$289.99)

The JL 13TW5 is what I have. I looked it up after the fact. Im gonna have to look into this when my bronco shows up.

 

[zane8stacks]

Just got mine back from the shop. 10" Audison prima subwoofer, Arc audio X2 amp with bass knob mounted in the dash.

who made that box? that thing is sweet

 

[zane8stacks]

Disclaimer: I love music and like it loud, BUT I am not a true audiophile like some of you all. So keep that in mind as I right this, because my “solution” to an audio problem in the Bronco might not be to the high standards of some of you.

Background: We have a Badlands with the upgraded B&O and I have swapped out all the speakers with the exception of the center channel and the sub. I did that within 3/4 weeks of ownership. This last weekend I FINALLY swapped out my 05 Mustang speakers (Shaker 500) and added amplification to my rears. (I did it in a way which I think could be a solution for Bronco owners…which I didn’t think about until I was completed.)

Bronco Problem: I know that a big complaint about the Bronco is the lackluster performance of the rear pods. Even with upgrading the speakers, not a ton of performance is gained.

Solution: (The Mustang rear speakers are weak as well) I bought a Boss 2 channel 100w (pictured) amp, which is one, very small in size and would be perfect for speaker amplification.

I also bought an item that I wasn’t aware that it existed, a Kicker line out converter (pictured). This allows you to tie in to the factory audio at the speakers and convert the output to the RCA style jacks for the amp (nothing needs to be run to the head unit) and it has a remote wire to turn on the amp. So it allows you to amplify speakers easily. All you need to “run” is a power wire and then a ground of course.

After I installed it all-it hit me that it would great for the rear pods. Small amp easy to mount, no wires to the head unit and 50 watts is just enough to do the trick in the rear pods.

I think the Bronco is gonna get the same speaker treatment.

here is a video of SMD audio reviewing that kicker line out and other line outs. it did not get any distortion until it got to 8v and the dude really liked it.

 

[ryanhuuu]

Kind of a dumb question but not really. Where can I find the main audio head that outputs line to kicker panels, soundbar, and dash corners. I can’t seem to find it…

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