I’m also installing a 5 channel amp, and running RCA’s to trunk. I couldn’t find any other forums with details on how to do so
I don't believe there is anywhere to pick up a line level (RCA) signal.
Awesome, the JVC amplifier I ordered does allow speaker level inputs. Thanks for the insight
If you don't mind what did you pay for that box? I'm just next door in Louisiana.
It was right about $580 for the sub box
Was that including the sub or just the box? Where are you located?
Just the box. Right outside of Jackson, MS
Sorry for all the questions. How does it sound with just one 10"
Call me some time tomorrow. 504 616 4796
Did you have do drill any new holes for the kick panel speakers? Was the outer ring the multi fit style?I had posted mine in a separate thread, but here it is again as well:
Total cost $1,135 USD + lots of my own labor hours LOL
Infinity Reference REF-4030CFX (4 of them)
Rockford Fosgate P1675-S 6 3/4 components
Wave Tech link 4 line out converter
Rockford Fosgate T1000X5ad 5 channel amp
JL Audio CS112LG-TW3 12" Sub in sealed box
T-Spec 4 ga. wiring and RCAs
Rather than purchase adapters for the 6.75 I made my own from 1/2 thick plastic. The stock kick panel speaker is a 6.5", but there is plenty of depth and space for the 6.75 to fit. As these were the only ones my local shop had in stock, I went with them. I did trim the back of the kick panel trim grill area (see photo) to ensure that the speaker would not touch as it travels. I mounted the tweeters to the dash top grills.
The amp is running like this:
2 channels - 4" Infinitys in the dash
2 channels - 6.75 components
1 channel - JL 12" at 2 ohms
I left the rear speakers running off the stock head unit and they only provide some minor rear fill. I tapped the kick panel speaker wiring (under the head unit) to feed the Wave Tech line out converter, mounted under the steering column. From there two sets of RCAs feed the amp mounted in the rear fender area.
The link 4 has a remote level knob that controls the sub volume and it is mounted under the dash (see photo).
I mounted the fuse to the lid of the fuse box under the hood and ran the 4 ga. wire down the drivers side and then across the back behind the seat, following the factory wiring harness. The RCAs, speaker, and remote wires are routed down the passenger side.
Originally I tired using the factory ground location towards the top rear of the fender area. This provided a lot of ground loop feedback so I ended up moving it to the location shown in the photo closer to the seat belt.
I cut the carpet off the sub box and coated it with two coats of Herculiner truck bed coating. I machined two custom t-slot nuts that fit into the oval cut outs in the tailgate. I used these two t-slot nuts and three rivet nuts across the top in existing factory holes to attach the box to the tailgate using five 1/4-20 bolts. Since the tailgate is not flat I placed some 3/16 thick rubber between the box and tailgate. I ran the wires to the sub inside of the factory wire loom and then close to the box brought them out into their own loom for a factory look.
The amp is mounted to a board attached to the fender using three existing studs in the fender. Everything is in loom or protective sleeve where it could be exposed to movement or wear. I removed practically every interior panel to complete this job and only managed to break one clip, and that was on the dash speaker grill after the third time taking it out.
Thank you to all of you who have posted photos and information on here to help me educate myself before I started the project. This system is overkill and is clear and loud enough that cruising with the top off is going to be awesome!
I made my own adaptor for these speakers so there was no drilling required. I used some .500 thick PP sheet. The factory speaker has three screws holding it in, you can see the three holes in the adaptor with the counter bored area for their heads. Then the four threaded holes are used to bolt the 6.75" Rockford Fosgate speaker to this ring.
No worries, IMO the B&O was severely lacking bass and at higher volumes the 8inch sub gets distorted. So just adding the 10 inch sub solved that problem and I couldn't be happier with it. We tried to put a custom box where the B&O sub is but the rattle was too much so we just went with the enclosure in the back...I have a soft top.
Where did you find the remote turn on?
