Upgrade / install locking differentials?

[Bellime]

Anyone know what it would take upgrade/install locking differentials?

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[35tires]

few grand depending on what you're trying to do at the end of the day. Rear, call it 3500 to 5k depending. Front, no clue. I can't even think it's worth it in 99% of cases.

In many many cases it's cheaper to buy it with them than try to add after the fact.

 

[Silver-Bolt]

Just a stack of $$$$

 

[87-Z28]

Ford performance sells the m220 rear axle and m210 fdu. Need new front cv half shafts also. Pigtails to wire into some activation switch. Aux switches are easy if you have them. About 4-5k if you do it yourself. There are threads that go into details.

 

[Dusty]

Keep an eye out for used stuff. I just bought a low miles Badlands M210 FDU and M220 rear axle assembly that will be going into my Base. The guy was upgrading to the Spicer Extreme stuff and sold me his OE bits at a great price. Bonus that you get lower gears too, not just the lockers. I still need to buy the pigtails as mentioned above, and I'm just going to wire them to AUX switches since the hero switches are still such a mystery.

 

[Bellime]

Well crap….regret is a waste of energy.. looks like replacing the rear differential from Ford Performance is fairly straight forward however trying to upgrade the dashboard switches would also require a new cable harness, probably….

for me, I am not rock crawler, so going deep in the ratios isn’t a benefit, but lockers are. I see that 4.27 ratio lockers were available but Ford Performance doesn’t carry them as that wouldn’t be considered an upgrade so I’d have to go through the normal parts channel.

just thinking a rear upgrade may be doable

 

[Disciple Mike]

I’ve thought about this upgrade as well and at some point will probably do a Truetrac in the rear and the FDU from Ford Performance. But in hindsight, I wish I’d just ordered at least a rear locker from the factory, if not going ahead with the Sasquatch package. Might’ve had to wait longer but would’ve been cheaper and easier in the long run. I also thought the off road traction control would be better than it is.

 

[redone17]

I’d like to add a front to my Black Diamond one day. Quick math convinced me that it’s more cost effective to upgrade both to 4.7 instead of just installing the 4.27 front. But, I guess used parts would be a different story. Easy to wire it to an AUX switch. I’ve gotten myself in a few situations where a front locker would have nice. Then I’m like…that would have been way less fun.

 

[Sozzy1269]

Just installed an ARB rear locker. It was not cheap.... the locker itself is not half of the job. You'll need a new ring and pinion, install kit, compressor, wiring all of it, and installation labor if not doing it yourself. Cheaper in the long run to find a used rear axle and swap it entirely.
For the front, I plan to find a used 210 with e locker, or maybe bite the bullet on a new one.

 

[dgorsett]

I’d like to add a front to my Black Diamond one day. Quick math convinced me that it’s more cost effective to upgrade both to 4.7 instead of just installing the 4.27 front. But, I guess used parts would be a different story. Easy to wire it to an AUX switch. I’ve gotten myself in a few situations where a front locker would have nice. Then I’m like…that would have been way less fun.

If you have a BD you should have 4.46. A locking FDU should be fairly available aftermarket or Badland take off. It doesn't look like a locking FDU will ever be easily doable for my 4.27 BB.

 

[redone17]

If you have a BD you should have 4.46. A locking FDU should be fairly available aftermarket or Badland take off. It doesn't look like a locking FDU will ever be easily doable for my 4.27 BB.

Ah. I misspoke. The options for BD are just matching the rear and staying 4.46 and upgrading both to 4.7.

I guess I didn’t realize there is a 4.27 also. Only on BB and OBX Automatics. Why is this even an option?

What are they referring to “Front Axle Disconnect”? If you have Advanced 4x4 aren’t you in Sasquatch land and have 4.7?

 

[dgorsett]

Ah. I misspoke. The options for BD are just matching the rear and staying 4.46 and upgrading both to 4.7.

I guess I didn’t realize there is a 4.27 also. Only on BB and OBX Automatics. Why is this even an option?

What are they referring to “Front Axle Disconnect”? If you have Advanced 4x4 aren’t you in Sasquatch land and have 4.7?

I see you have a MT so 6th gear may become useless with big tires, but you have crawler so even with 4.46 you'll have plenty on the low end. And it's only a 5% so instead of running 2100 rpms at a given speed you'll be running 2000. My opinion is shaped by my incredible cheapness, you'd only have to deal with the front if you stayed at 4.46.

As far as FAD that statement in the specs is very confusing, don't know why they mention it. Anything with Advanced 4x4, and for some reason BBs with 4.27 and part time (like mine) do not have FAD. And BTW is that from the MY24 B&P? I understand there are no 2 door OBX for 24...

 

[redone17]

I see you have a MT so 6th gear may become useless with big tires, but you have crawler so even with 4.46 you'll have plenty on the low end. And it's only a 5% so instead of running 2100 rpms at a given speed you'll be running 2000. My opinion is shaped by my incredible cheapness, you'd only have to deal with the front if you stayed at 4.46.

As far as FAD that statement in the specs is very confusing, don't know why they mention it. Anything with Advanced 4x4, and for some reason BBs with 4.27 and part time (like mine) do not have FAD. And BTW is that from the MY24 B&P? I understand there are no 2 door OBX for 24...

Yes, MT. Only reason I’d go 4.7 is if I was planning to go 37”. 6th is already useless unless I’m going 85+ MPH with 34” tires. Financially makes the most sense for me to just upgrade the front. But for an additional $1000 or so, can do both at 4.7.

B&P is confusing AF. I guess I gotta research what requires FAD. Seems so silly to even have the 4.27 option.

 

[dgorsett]

Yes, MT. Only reason I’d go 4.7 is if I was planning to go 37”. 6th is already useless unless I’m going 85+ MPH with 34” tires. Financially makes the most sense for me to just upgrade the front. But for an additional $1000 or so, can do both at 4.7.

B&P is confusing AF. I guess I gotta research what requires FAD. Seems so silly to even have the 4.27 option.

I got the 4.27 and am happy with it, but you're right, why? I'd be none the wiser if I had 4.46 (back to my 5% makes no dif comments) and upgrades would be much easier.

 

[Tricky Mike]

however trying to upgrade the dashboard switches would also require a new cable harness, probably….

I wouldn't try to integrate the switches like factory. Run them on a separate circuit. Bonus is the computer can't lock you out from using lockers when it thinks it knows better.

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