- First Name
- Devon
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2022
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- 10
- Location
- South Carolina
- Vehicle(s)
- 2022 Bronco - Eruption Green
- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
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- #1
I was running the 67 designs half bar and a couple g3 magnetic mounts and I recently got a phone with wireless charging and wanted to use one with active cooling. The bronco comes with an underpowered 5v2a=10w usb on the lux dashboard from the factory. After much digging I was able to find this thread:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-official-workshop-manual-instructions.50811/
Getting to the usb module is not hard at all. I used a MICRO2 10a fuse tap and two 1m strands of 16awg wire and spades for the new usb module. Couldn't use the included wiring for the new module cuz the wires are too short to reach the fusebox under the dash.
USB module I used(I got this one because it had good specs but the power button shuts it all the way off, and doesn't just turn off the led lights as it states)
MICRO2 Fuse Taps
Here is the before and after charging speed with the active cooling wireless charger that I used.
that charger comes with a 17mm ball socket on the back of it and a crappy vent charger btw, I used a 17-20mm ball adapter so I could mount it to my 67 designs arm.
The first thing you should do is test your fuse tap and new module before tearing the dash apart ofc, but once you're ready, remove the accessory ready bar first, it has two T20 torx holding it in. Rock it towards the front of the vehicle and it'll pop right out.
Like the other post mentioned, make sure to use plenty of painters tape to protect the edges around the speaker grill from your plastic pry tool. I inserted the pry tool downwards into the gap where the red arrow is pointing. Then I rotated until the speaker grill assembly popped out above that layer. Once the whole front edge is out, you can pop the 5 retaining clips easily with your hands.
The stock usb module is fairly long, so you can fit pretty much any aftermarket module without issues due to there being plenty of clearance room. I wrapped the stock wiring harness in electrical tape and stuck the other end of tape into one of the retaining clip holes as shown above, just so it's not lost into oblivion if I decide to undo any changes later.
The new module I installed calls for a 28mm wide hole, and it fit perfectly. There were these 2 small plastic nubs for retention of the stock module, that I did have to bust off, just by pushing the new module through with light force. This module has a screw ring retention mechanism on the back side.
This module is much shorter than the stock one, so no issues with clearance, even with spade terminals vs wiring harness on the stock one. I used a straightened out coat hanger to go down the hole and under the steering wheel to reach the fuse box, electrical taped the spade terminals to the hanger and pulled it gently back up through the opening.
Again, I used about two lengths of 1m of 16awg wiring, I fuse tapped into fuse #35 with a 10a fuse, and grounded to the chassis bolt next to the fuse box. It matters which orientation you put the fuse tap. I did not install the 5a default fuse because it was listed as not used spare in the wiring diagram. If you install the fuse in the wrong orientation it can bypass the new fuse, or even run through both fuses. Also be aware that some fuse slots are constantly hot, while some like #35 are hot on ignition only. Use a volt meter. Also be cognizant of what amp fuse you should use based on the USB module you buy.
Here it is all buttoned up, from the top down view.
And here is a video showcasing how I have it setup to only be hot on ignition.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-official-workshop-manual-instructions.50811/
Getting to the usb module is not hard at all. I used a MICRO2 10a fuse tap and two 1m strands of 16awg wire and spades for the new usb module. Couldn't use the included wiring for the new module cuz the wires are too short to reach the fusebox under the dash.
USB module I used(I got this one because it had good specs but the power button shuts it all the way off, and doesn't just turn off the led lights as it states)
MICRO2 Fuse Taps
Here is the before and after charging speed with the active cooling wireless charger that I used.
that charger comes with a 17mm ball socket on the back of it and a crappy vent charger btw, I used a 17-20mm ball adapter so I could mount it to my 67 designs arm.
The first thing you should do is test your fuse tap and new module before tearing the dash apart ofc, but once you're ready, remove the accessory ready bar first, it has two T20 torx holding it in. Rock it towards the front of the vehicle and it'll pop right out.
Like the other post mentioned, make sure to use plenty of painters tape to protect the edges around the speaker grill from your plastic pry tool. I inserted the pry tool downwards into the gap where the red arrow is pointing. Then I rotated until the speaker grill assembly popped out above that layer. Once the whole front edge is out, you can pop the 5 retaining clips easily with your hands.
The stock usb module is fairly long, so you can fit pretty much any aftermarket module without issues due to there being plenty of clearance room. I wrapped the stock wiring harness in electrical tape and stuck the other end of tape into one of the retaining clip holes as shown above, just so it's not lost into oblivion if I decide to undo any changes later.
The new module I installed calls for a 28mm wide hole, and it fit perfectly. There were these 2 small plastic nubs for retention of the stock module, that I did have to bust off, just by pushing the new module through with light force. This module has a screw ring retention mechanism on the back side.
This module is much shorter than the stock one, so no issues with clearance, even with spade terminals vs wiring harness on the stock one. I used a straightened out coat hanger to go down the hole and under the steering wheel to reach the fuse box, electrical taped the spade terminals to the hanger and pulled it gently back up through the opening.
Again, I used about two lengths of 1m of 16awg wiring, I fuse tapped into fuse #35 with a 10a fuse, and grounded to the chassis bolt next to the fuse box. It matters which orientation you put the fuse tap. I did not install the 5a default fuse because it was listed as not used spare in the wiring diagram. If you install the fuse in the wrong orientation it can bypass the new fuse, or even run through both fuses. Also be aware that some fuse slots are constantly hot, while some like #35 are hot on ignition only. Use a volt meter. Also be cognizant of what amp fuse you should use based on the USB module you buy.
Here it is all buttoned up, from the top down view.
And here is a video showcasing how I have it setup to only be hot on ignition.
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