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teevan

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Good mid bass usually requires a correctly sized enclosure and a lot of power, the OEM kick panels are not sealed in any way so the kick panel speakers are essentially playing free air, which allows the rear wave of the speaker to cancel out the front. Also a sealed (or properly ported) enclosure acts as a spring to dampen and enhance output, without it bass is a mess, and itā€™s why the kick panel speakers are not doing much with the way Ford designed them, even with aftermarket speakers. Look at the loose foam plug below the woofer and the other openings on that panel, if you seal those well you will get tighter, punchier mid bass. It still wonā€™t go super low, but it should sound better.
Yeah, i added kilmat inside the enclosure along with poly fill, which I was expecting a big improvement from along with the woofers. But was not impressed.
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AutoTerry

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Yeah, i added kilmat inside the enclosure along with poly fill, which I was expecting a big improvement from along with the woofers. But was not impressed.
I was in the same mode of not being impressed with bass response after updating all 6 speakers. As MOBRONCO said you do have some nice mid bass punch. I also added dynomat to all locations and used Focal speakers, which deliver a very nice top end and great punchy mid bass, but the low end was lacking. So yesterday I installed a subwoofer under the drivers seat and WOW, there is the low end I was seeking and very nice sound. Now I am very pleased, I used the JBL Bass Pro Nano, purchased from Crutchfield. Easy install as this unit is small and the only quality one I could find that would fit perfectly under the seat with the seat in the lowest position (I am 6'4). Fairly easy to wire and just tapped the speaker in the kick panel for signal for a high level input. Any questions or if you need pics just let me know. Thanks and good luck!
 
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BudgetBronco

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I was in the same mode of not being impressed with bass response after updating all 6 speakers. As MOBRONCO said you do have some nice mid bass punch. I also added dynomat to all locations and used Focal speakers, which deliver a very nice top end and great punchy mid bass, but the low end was lacking. So yesterday I installed a subwoofer under the drivers seat and WOW, there is the low end I was seeking and very nice sound. Now I am very pleased, I used the JBL Bass Pro Nano, purchased from Crutchfield. Easy install as this unit is small and the only quality one I could find that would fit perfectly under the seat with the seat in the lowest position (I am 6'4). Fairly easy to wire and just tapped the speaker in the kick panel for signal for a high level input. Any questions or if you need pics just let me know. Thanks and good luck!
I think it would be great if you could add a little more info on how you tapped the kick panel and also how you wired for power. I never thought much about adding a sub, but your post has me considering it...
 

AutoTerry

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I think it would be great if you could add a little more info on how you tapped the kick panel and also how you wired for power. I never thought much about adding a sub, but your post has me considering it...
First as per Crutchfields directions I purchased an AMP install kit, hooked up power directly to the battery with 10 gauge wire and in inline fuse that came in the kit. Ran that wire through the firewall. There is a rubber plug in the firewall that leads to an easy access spot under the dash on the drivers side. The plug is oval in shape and is located between the master cylinder and the fender on the drivers side(pic). I plan to drill a small hole in the rubber plug for the wire to pass through and then use black silicone to seal around the wire, for now i just wedged it in a corner as it was late last night lol. All wires run just under the kick panel speaker and under the door sill panel to get to under the seat. For the speaker wires I used wire taps (supplied by Crutchfield) to tap the speaker wire of the kick panel speaker. You only need one channel lead to power a subwoofer. Of course a ground wire I attached to one of the rear seat bolts of the drivers seat. The final connection so you have Auto On/Off of the subwoofer is an ignition power source. By using an Add a Fuse from any parts store you can use one of the fuse locations in the fuse box to tap a line just for power that comes on with ignition. Fuse box is easy to access and the panel blow the steering wheel exposes easy access as it is just in there with clips. Start at the top of the panel and pull out as it is hinged at the bottom and just folds down, exposing the fuse panel. I used fuse location #37. Pics are in order and are after install as I did not photo while doing the work. Hope this helps and any other questions please let me know.
Ford Bronco Inexpensive yet impactful speaker upgrade plus FORScan mod tempImageUwgz4I
Ford Bronco Inexpensive yet impactful speaker upgrade plus FORScan mod tempImageeZ7ArI
Ford Bronco Inexpensive yet impactful speaker upgrade plus FORScan mod tempImagerXtofT
Ford Bronco Inexpensive yet impactful speaker upgrade plus FORScan mod tempImageCLg4uR
Ford Bronco Inexpensive yet impactful speaker upgrade plus FORScan mod tempImagehSuJv7
Ford Bronco Inexpensive yet impactful speaker upgrade plus FORScan mod tempImageKQt3sH
 
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BudgetBronco

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First as per Crutchfields directions I purchased an AMP install kit, hooked up power directly to the battery with 10 gauge wire and in inline fuse that came in the kit. Ran that wire through the firewall. There is a rubber plug in the firewall that leads to an easy access spot under the dash on the drivers side. The plug is oval in shape and is located between the master cylinder and the fender on the drivers side(pic). I plan to drill a small hole in the rubber plug for the wire to pass through and then use black silicone to seal around the wire, for now i just wedged it in a corner as it was late last night lol. All wires run just under the kick panel speaker and under the door sill panel to get to under the seat. For the speaker wires I used wire taps (supplied by Crutchfield) to tap the speaker wire of the kick panel speaker. You only need one channel lead to power a subwoofer. Of course a ground wire I attached to one of the rear seat bolts of the drivers seat. The final connection so you have Auto On/Off of the subwoofer is an ignition power source. By using an Add a Fuse from any parts store you can use one of the fuse locations in the fuse box to tap a line just for power that comes on with ignition. Fuse box is easy to access and the panel blow the steering wheel exposes easy access as it is just in there with clips. Start at the top of the panel and pull out as it is hinged at the bottom and just folds down, exposing the fuse panel. I used fuse location #37. Pics are in order and are after install as I did not photo while doing the work. Hope this helps and any other questions please let me know.
Thanks Terry, super helpful! Does it not matter if you use the + or - speaker wire leading to the kick panel speaker as input to the sub?

You might also consider creating a separate post for this, I think a lot of people would benefit from it, and it will probably get more eyeballs as compared to buried on page 14 of my old post.
 

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AutoTerry

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You tap both positive and negative side of the kick panel speaker to lead into the subwoofer inputs. Good idea on a new thread. Thanks and enjoy
 

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You tap both positive and negative side of the kick panel speaker to lead into the subwoofer inputs. Good idea on a new thread. Thanks and enjoy
This is not good advice, you need to get left AND right speaker input, there will be bass information in both the left and right channels.
 

AutoTerry

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This is not good advice, you need to get left AND right speaker input, there will be bass information in both the left and right channels.
On this particular subwoofer you can hook to just one channel, some subs require both channels. In a 2 channel audio recording low frequency sound is mixed to both left and right channels except in rare cases. In home theatre applications this is not true hence the LFE connection and the sub out on receivers/pre amps where the mixing is done.
 

a94cobra

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Ok, so I have 600hz Blockers up front with Infinity in the four corners. I think it sounds pretty good as is, but front heavy. Iā€™d prefer to avoid paying the dealer to flash since I have Forscan.

Question is - 300hz Blockers in the rear? Get SOME bass out of them and fill the space out?

I used 150hz bass blockers in the front. I replaced my factories with some Alpine S-40's. The 150hz takes just a tad of the low end bass off. They sound amazing now. I added a couple 12's in the back. It hits hard if I want and the fronts don't distort any with those blockers on them. I have a 22 so I can't change with Forscan yet the rears to full range. So I just left them stock for now.
 

a94cobra

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So if I put in a low pass crossover set at 80hz for my subwoofer setup I will have no bass? I doubt the stock head unit will not play a sub 80hz frequency if you use the kick panel line level inputs. Obviously the rear line level would not because it has a high pass from the factory head unit. Any cheap head unit will be able to reproduce the entire frequency range so Iā€™m pretty sure the factory head unit will. Anyone running a sub set up with crossover set at 80hz? Do you have bass?

I added 2-12's in the boot. I took line level inputs into the setup from the front kick panel speakers. I have plenty of bass even sub 80hz. The head unit is fine.
 

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a94cobra

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Iā€™ve been reading comments on this thread and many similar threads for over an hour. Please forgive me if itā€™s already mentioned and I missed it.

Has anyone determined at what frequency the base head units rolls off bass, or what/how the head is limiting in stock configuration? For example, if the head unit cuts bass at 300hz and someone ā€œJBL flashesā€ the head to get a flat response but puts 300hz caps in line with upgraded speakers, doesnā€™t that defeat the purpose of the re-flash?

The reflash is only for the rear speakers. They are head unit limited on bass. If you have a 21 you can reflash. 22 is not working yet. I took line level inputs from the front kick speakers for the subs. They are full range now.
 

a94cobra

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Same, I got to this thread late and everyoneā€™s sold out again.

Iā€™ve seen people saying but do we know if itā€™s confirmed FORSCAN doesnā€™t work on ā€˜22 yet?
Not to divert sales away from a member here, but if you can't find the speaker adapters you like and you don't want to wire them yourselves, buy your speakers from Crutchfield. They send them free with purchase.
 

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Not to divert sales away from a member here, but if you can't find the speaker adapters you like and you don't want to wire them yourselves, buy your speakers from Crutchfield. They send them free with purchase.
Appreciate it! Iā€™ve actually bought a set of 4 from the member FastDaddy twice now. 600 and 300hz versions. Been super happy with the 300s after messing with the factory tone settings extensively.
 

a94cobra

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Have they changed the kick panel speakers? Mine are not paper. Base stereo option. Dash was still paper.

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a94cobra

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Appreciate it! Iā€™ve actually bought a set of 4 from the member FastDaddy twice now. 600 and 300hz versions. Been super happy with the 300s after messing with the factory tone settings extensively.
I played with 300 and 150hz versions. I went with 150hz versions. Sounded better.
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