Inexpensive yet impactful speaker upgrade plus FORScan mod

[omg_bbq]

Have they changed the kick panel speakers? Mine are not paper. Base stereo option. Dash was still paper.

I have a ‘22 Black Diamond so also no upgraded stereo and that’s what mine look like.

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[omg_bbq]

I played with 300 and 150hz versions. I went with 150hz versions. Sounded better.

Yeah I probably should have done the same. My time settings are bass heavy. It works for now though. Are there any plug and play subs for where the b&o one would go?

 

[a94cobra]

Yeah I probably should have done the same. My time settings are bass heavy. It works for now though. Are there any plug and play subs for where the b&o one would go?

I checked the caps(bass blockers) on the factory speakers. 400hz. I don't blame Ford there, those speakers don't have any room for movement on them. I do Blame Ford for giving us shit speakers in the fist place.

 

[MOBRONCO]

I used 150hz bass blockers in the front. I replaced my factories with some Alpine S-40's. The 150hz takes just a tad of the low end bass off. They sound amazing now. I added a couple 12's in the back. It hits hard if I want and the fronts don't distort any with those blockers on them. I have a 22 so I can't change with Forscan yet the rears to full range. So I just left them stock for now.

You can make the change with Forscan

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ont-rear-forscan-settings.50301/#post-1525711

 

[a94cobra]

Are you sure this works on the 22's. I tried this before and didn't work.

 

[redone17]

I used 150hz bass blockers in the front. I replaced my factories with some Alpine S-40's. The 150hz takes just a tad of the low end bass off. They sound amazing now. I added a couple 12's in the back. It hits hard if I want and the fronts don't distort any with those blockers on them. I have a 22 so I can't change with Forscan yet the rears to full range. So I just left them stock for now.

Awesome. I’m pining for a slight upgrade after a year of the Infinity+600. Looks like the Alpine might be a nice choice. I have yet to see 150hz adapters. Would be nice to splice on the factory plugs back in.

 

[a94cobra]

Awesome. I’m pining for a slight upgrade after a year of the Infinity+600. Looks like the Alpine might be a nice choice. I have yet to see 150hz adapters. Would be nice to splice on the factory plugs back in.

I think Crutchfield sells some 150hz adapters. But I bought a set of the PAC BB-1PR which are 300hz bass blockers. That way I could test which way I thought they sounded best.

To do that, wire in one 300hz bass blocker, I did all this with temporary wiring so I could test. Then wire in another one on the same speaker. Not in series, in parallel. That will double the uf of the cap and lower the freq of the bass blockers.

After I was sure what I wanted, I bought another set for the other side. I havn't even bothered with the rear speakers, can't hear them anyway. I have a 4dr, rear passengers don't like them. Right on their head making them too loud in the back.

 

[MOBRONCO]

Are you sure this works on the 22's. I tried this before and didn't work.

I can’t be sure it will work on anything, but can assure you my results are from my 22 Big Bend, the graphs show the difference in response.

 

[22OBX]

Have they changed the kick panel speakers? Mine are not paper. Base stereo option. Dash was still paper.

Neither of mine were paper, both poly cones

 

[fallguy]

Damn, I didnt know the 22's couldnt open up the rear sound with forscan. I did it, and tried to put the sound in the back, and it did sound just like before. I ordered kickers for the back too, looks like money wasted now.

 

[MOBRONCO]

Damn, I didnt know the 22's couldnt open up the rear sound with forscan. I did it, and tried to put the sound in the back, and it did sound just like before. I ordered kickers for the back too, looks like money wasted now.

Slow down, did you do this on the stock speakers before putting in the Kickers? If so, they have a physical capacitor on the front and rear speakers to roll off below 400 Hz.

 

[fallguy]

Slow down, did you do this on the stock speakers before putting in the Kickers? If so, they have a physical capacitor on the front and rear speakers to roll off below 400 Hz.

The kickers were supposed to be delivered yesterday, but were delayed. I took out one speaker, so I could try and hear the difference between the stock and kicker by changing the balance as music is playing. I saw the extra plug, but was not sure what that was for. I just unplugged the speaker at the base of it, did not mess with the plug that is on top of the enclosure.

What does that do? Should I leave that in? I changed the settings in Forscan that this thread goes over. I have a bass blocker on the fronts, do the rears need it as well?

 

[BudgetBronco]

The kickers were supposed to be delivered yesterday, but were delayed. I took out one speaker, so I could try and hear the difference between the stock and kicker by changing the balance as music is playing. I saw the extra plug, but was not sure what that was for. I just unplugged the speaker at the base of it, did not mess with the plug that is on top of the enclosure.

What does that do? Should I leave that in? I changed the settings in Forscan that this thread goes over. I have a bass blocker on the fronts, do the rears need it as well?

I think you are talking about the rear speaker pods. If so, there is only one pair of wires for each side. Those wires go to a connector at the top of the pod/box, and that connector goes a few inches to another connector that attaches to the speakers. It seems redundant but must be that way to make assembly easier on the assembly line at MAP.

The general consensus is that you do not need bass blockers on the rear speakers. If you are also installing a sub you might consider them, but they are not needed for the setup that I did in the video on this post.

 

[fallguy]

I think you are talking about the rear speaker pods. If so, there is only one pair of wires for each side. Those wires go to a connector at the top of the pod/box, and that connector goes a few inches to another connector that attaches to the speakers. It seems redundant but must be that way to make assembly easier on the assembly line at MAP.

The general consensus is that you do not need bass blockers on the rear speakers. If you are also installing a sub you might consider them, but they are not needed for the setup that I did in the video on this post.

I am talking about the rears. The extra plug just seemed weird to me, but probably there for like you said. I already did the front, with kickers and they sound much better. Used the bass blockers on them.

I plan to install the kicker sub on the swing gate. Thanks for the reply.

 

[a94cobra]

I think you are talking about the rear speaker pods. If so, there is only one pair of wires for each side. Those wires go to a connector at the top of the pod/box, and that connector goes a few inches to another connector that attaches to the speakers. It seems redundant but must be that way to make assembly easier on the assembly line at MAP.

The general consensus is that you do not need bass blockers on the rear speakers. If you are also installing a sub you might consider them, but they are not needed for the setup that I did in the video on this post.

Not sure why you would need bass blockers on the front but not the rear. It really comes down to the speaker. The smaller speakers can't properly reproduce low bass. If it's the same as the front then yes it needs the same treatment(bass blockers) as the front

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