2023MY Standard Audio (6-speaker) Subwoofer Delete Mandatory and Functional Amps Removed

[NathanML]

Would you mind taking a pic of the part numbers for the factory sub and amp?

Sponsored

 

[Szarko]

Ok. So I have succeeded using a Ford amp, an aftermarket sub, and FORScan. Please refer to my prior posts in this thread for additional detail. This post is specifically for those with a 2023 Bronco non-B&O sound system with a nonfunctional amp and sub.

My Bronco is a 4 door 2023 Badlands with a mid package and a non-functional amp and sub. As most have noted, the six-speaker sound system is horrible. My goal was to do the minimal amount possible and keep the factory look and feel. I didn't want to run extra wires, splice wires, etc., only using what was there and adding minimal effort to get a functioning amp and sub in the back to improve sound quality. I was not going after having the loudest or best-sounding system out there.

Tools Used:

• Plastic Trim Removal Tool Set
• Philips screwdriver (remove the nonfunctional amp from the stock sub enclosure
• Torx t20 (remove the sub from the enclosure)
• Router, and template to modify the sub enclosure (depending on speaker chosen, this may not be required)

Purchased Products:

• Dynamat Xtreme - Sound Dampening
• Dymamat Dynaliner - More sound dampening for the ambient noise with the cabinet
• A functioning non-B&O Ford Bronco sub amp from some upgrading on this forum (which at this point is very limited), or purchase this Ford Fusion amp -https://teamequip.com/fomoco-fp5t-1...und-system-amplifier-for-ford-fusion-t163700/. Both will work equally as well from my testing.
• Sub: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8; but if I were to redo this I would choose the Kicker 48CWRT672 - I'll explain further below; I know there are other subs other there that will work too; just watch the minimum watch, ohms (2ohm x 2ohm), and dual voice coil.

Software and OBD:

• Forscan version v2.3.51 https://forscan.org/download.html (got a trial license for two months)
• Windows 11 laptop to run ForScan with USB port for the Adapter
• OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter

Steps taken to get the Sub Installed and working:

1. Removed all back panels (floor, driver side, passenger side - where the sub is).
2. Sound Dampening - Installed Dynamat and Dynaliner in key areas to remove rattles, vibrations and such. I didnt wall paper it all over the back, but added just enough to help.
3. Removed the sub enclosure; Disconnecting the stock wiring harness from the non funcational amp and sub.
4. Removed the non functional amp and sub from the Bronco
5. Retrofit the sub enclosure cut-over diameter to fit the the 8" sub purchased (This is why I recommend the six inch Kicker, I do not believe any modification will be needed - so no cutting).
6. Installed installation tape on the sub enclousre to seal the 8" sub
7. Modified the stock sub speaker harness (not the stock amp harness); removing the sub terminal connecters. Then connected the sub to the modified sub harness.
8. Mounted the sub back into the enclosure ensuring it was sealed and wires were connected
9. Installed a functional Ford amp on the enclosure - no modding necessary
10. Reinstalled the sub enclosure in the cabin; connecting the existing / stock wiring harness.
11. Reinstalled all the panels.
12. **** Tested to ensure the Bronco was still happy **** Turned the car on ensured the sound system worked and no issues.
13. Took out the windows 11 laptop with FORScan installed and plugged in the OBX adapter. (keep in mind I had already requested a temporary license key for FORScan).
14. Connected the the OBX adapter to the Bronco, already having FORScan up and running on the latptop.
15. **** Connected to the Bronco and made a backup of the vehicle setting with FORScan *****
16. Loaded the ACM Module to modify 727-01-01:
17. Modified my as built from "382B 14F1 0098" changing only one character "4" to a "6"; I paused for a moment and noticed one other character changed as well automatically. I suspect this was the result of a checksum performed. The end result was my 727-01-01 line: "382B 16F1 009A"; Realize I only made the one character change "4 to 6" (14F1), but the "8" (0098)was changed automatically to "A".
18. I wrote the change via FORScan to the vehicle; then restarted the vehicle. ***Again I would brush up on how to use FORScan before attempting this. Its not hard, just precise - so take your time.
19. When I restarted the car, I noticed my stereo was now on AM. Also, all my settings for bass, mid and treble were set flat again. I believe this is part of the restart process.
20. I tested the sytems now, and the sub was completely functional. I played it for about 15 minutes, changing different sound settings. The bass was overwhelming so I had to turn that down.

Thats it! Ive tested it a few times now; turning the vehicle on and off, turning it up to the volume up to 25, and it works great! Actually its too loud now. Im leaving the Ford Fusion amp in and returned the other Bronco amp to the person that let me borrow it.

Lessoned Learned:

• Understand what FORScan does and how it works. I did not have any issues, but I can see how you can really cause issues rushing and not following steps. Don't just make changes and hope for the best. its precise.
• I would recommend the six inch kicker sub for the stock non-B&O enclosure as I expect you wont have to modify the sub existing enclosure much, its cheaper, and I alot of air movement from the 8" sub I installed in the stock enclosure (I didnt close the port). Finally (and this is a personal preference), The 8" inch sub is too much bass for me. I had to turn the bass way down.
• I still would upgrade the dash speakers to the Hertz 100.3. The kick panel and the rears, maybe. Currently, this project turned out better than expected.

Please see the pics below for my settings after the change.

JimV,
Thank you so much for doing this. I pickup my new Bronco tomorrow and I ordered the Ford Fusion amp yesterday so I can hit the ground running with your blueprint. Thank you so much for taking the time to document this.

 

[BigHoof]

JimV,
Thank you so much for doing this. I pickup my new Bronco tomorrow and I ordered the Ford Fusion amp yesterday so I can hit the ground running with your blueprint. Thank you so much for taking the time to document this.

Right there with you. Get mine Friday and just ordered the Amp. Can't thank these guys enough! I'm sure there are alternatives but this should be relatively quick and easy.

On the sub, looks like the factory one is 2x2 ohms, 110 watts. Looking at the Kicker 48CWRT672, says the mounting diameter is 5 5/8", depth 2 3/4". What size is the actual stock hole in the box and depth?

Added a link to a post on how to take the rear panel apart on a 2 door.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...panel-removal-instructions.68615/post-1843665

 

[350vudu]

Right there with you. Get mine Friday and just ordered the Amp. Can't thank these guys enough! I'm sure there are alternatives but this should be relatively quick and easy.

On the sub, looks like the factory one is 2x2 ohms, 110 watts. Looking at the Kicker 48CWRT672, says the mounting diameter is 5 5/8", depth 2 3/4". What size is the actual stock hole in the box and depth?

Added a link to a post on how to take the rear panel apart on a 2 door.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...panel-removal-instructions.68615/post-1843665

Yea I think this is the route to take. Ford Fusion amp, Kicker 48CWRT672 and enable in Forscan.

 

[BigHoof]

Wiring question. On the Kicker, looks like the terminals push in and then grab the wire. Is there a more secure way to attach the wires?

 

[OKST Bronco]

@JimV you are an absolute legend!

anyone know if that amp could run the 8” version of the Kicker compRt? Obviously need to make some mods to the enclosure

 

[rutherk1]

I have a 2023 badlands with non functioning g subwoofer I just changed the 727-01-01 like was posted. My 4th set of characters did not automatically change the last character from 8 to an A, so I manually changed it. From his screenshot, all other values are the same.

My OEM amp should be here next week so we will see if I have the same results.

Good stuff.

Ok. So I have succeeded using a Ford amp, an aftermarket sub, and FORScan. Please refer to my prior posts in this thread for additional detail. This post is specifically for those with a 2023 Bronco non-B&O sound system with a nonfunctional amp and sub.

My Bronco is a 4 door 2023 Badlands with a mid package and a non-functional amp and sub. As most have noted, the six-speaker sound system is horrible. My goal was to do the minimal amount possible and keep the factory look and feel. I didn't want to run extra wires, splice wires, etc., only using what was there and adding minimal effort to get a functioning amp and sub in the back to improve sound quality. I was not going after having the loudest or best-sounding system out there.

Tools Used:

• Plastic Trim Removal Tool Set
• Philips screwdriver (remove the nonfunctional amp from the stock sub enclosure
• Torx t20 (remove the sub from the enclosure)
• Router, and template to modify the sub enclosure (depending on speaker chosen, this may not be required)

Purchased Products:

• Dynamat Xtreme - Sound Dampening
• Dymamat Dynaliner - More sound dampening for the ambient noise with the cabinet
• A functioning non-B&O Ford Bronco sub amp from some upgrading on this forum (which at this point is very limited), or purchase this Ford Fusion amp -https://teamequip.com/fomoco-fp5t-1...und-system-amplifier-for-ford-fusion-t163700/. Both will work equally as well from my testing.
• Sub: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8; but if I were to redo this I would choose the Kicker 48CWRT672 - I'll explain further below; I know there are other subs other there that will work too; just watch the minimum watch, ohms (2ohm x 2ohm), and dual voice coil.

Software and OBD:

• Forscan version v2.3.51 https://forscan.org/download.html (got a trial license for two months)
• Windows 11 laptop to run ForScan with USB port for the Adapter
• OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter

Steps taken to get the Sub Installed and working:

1. Removed all back panels (floor, driver side, passenger side - where the sub is).
2. Sound Dampening - Installed Dynamat and Dynaliner in key areas to remove rattles, vibrations and such. I didnt wall paper it all over the back, but added just enough to help.
3. Removed the sub enclosure; Disconnecting the stock wiring harness from the non funcational amp and sub.
4. Removed the non functional amp and sub from the Bronco
5. Retrofit the sub enclosure cut-over diameter to fit the the 8" sub purchased (This is why I recommend the six inch Kicker, I do not believe any modification will be needed - so no cutting).
6. Installed installation tape on the sub enclousre to seal the 8" sub
7. Modified the stock sub speaker harness (not the stock amp harness); removing the sub terminal connecters. Then connected the sub to the modified sub harness.
8. Mounted the sub back into the enclosure ensuring it was sealed and wires were connected
9. Installed a functional Ford amp on the enclosure - no modding necessary
10. Reinstalled the sub enclosure in the cabin; connecting the existing / stock wiring harness.
11. Reinstalled all the panels.
12. **** Tested to ensure the Bronco was still happy **** Turned the car on ensured the sound system worked and no issues.
13. Took out the windows 11 laptop with FORScan installed and plugged in the OBX adapter. (keep in mind I had already requested a temporary license key for FORScan).
14. Connected the the OBX adapter to the Bronco, already having FORScan up and running on the latptop.
15. **** Connected to the Bronco and made a backup of the vehicle setting with FORScan *****
16. Loaded the ACM Module to modify 727-01-01:
17. Modified my as built from "382B 14F1 0098" changing only one character "4" to a "6"; I paused for a moment and noticed one other character changed as well automatically. I suspect this was the result of a checksum performed. The end result was my 727-01-01 line: "382B 16F1 009A"; Realize I only made the one character change "4 to 6" (14F1), but the "8" (0098)was changed automatically to "A".
18. I wrote the change via FORScan to the vehicle; then restarted the vehicle. ***Again I would brush up on how to use FORScan before attempting this. Its not hard, just precise - so take your time.
19. When I restarted the car, I noticed my stereo was now on AM. Also, all my settings for bass, mid and treble were set flat again. I believe this is part of the restart process.
20. I tested the sytems now, and the sub was completely functional. I played it for about 15 minutes, changing different sound settings. The bass was overwhelming so I had to turn that down.

Thats it! Ive tested it a few times now; turning the vehicle on and off, turning it up to the volume up to 25, and it works great! Actually its too loud now. Im leaving the Ford Fusion amp in and returned the other Bronco amp to the person that let me borrow it.

Lessoned Learned:

• Understand what FORScan does and how it works. I did not have any issues, but I can see how you can really cause issues rushing and not following steps. Don't just make changes and hope for the best. its precise.
• I would recommend the six inch kicker sub for the stock non-B&O enclosure as I expect you wont have to modify the sub existing enclosure much, its cheaper, and I alot of air movement from the 8" sub I installed in the stock enclosure (I didnt close the port). Finally (and this is a personal preference), The 8" inch sub is too much bass for me. I had to turn the bass way down.
• I still would upgrade the dash speakers to the Hertz 100.3. The kick panel and the rears, maybe. Currently, this project turned out better than expected.

Please see the pics below for my settings after the change.

I have a 2023 Badlands with the non functioning sub as well. I also changed my 727-01-01 values. After changing the 4 to a 6, the last digit in the set of three did not change from 8 to A like the previous post. I manually changed it as all of my other values matched his. Once my OEM subwoofer amp arrives, I will be able to verify that I have the same results. Hopefully I will. Good stuff.

 

[350vudu]

I have a 2023 badlands with non functioning g subwoofer I just changed the 727-01-01 like was posted. My 4th set of characters did not automatically change the last character from 8 to an A, so I manually changed it. From his screenshot, all other values are the same.

My OEM amp should be here next week so we will see if I have the same results.

Good stuff.

I have a 2023 Badlands with the non functioning sub as well. I also changed my 727-01-01 values. After changing the 4 to a 6, the last digit in the set of three did not change from 8 to A like the previous post. I manually changed it as all of my other values matched his. Once my OEM subwoofer amp arrives, I will be able to verify that I have the same results. Hopefully I will. Good stuff.

What sub are you using?

 

[rutherk1]

What sub are you using?

Once I get the enclosure out I was going to try a couple options. I have some Kicker 6.75 inch shallow mount woofers. Was going to try one of those but think the enclosure may be too flimsy for a little woofer like the kicker. They move quite a bit of air for being so small. If they are, probably something pretty mild from parts express.

 

[35tires]

The stereo is awful and I'm hoping to find someone to put in a modest but louder/nicer sounding setup that doesn't require bolting anything into the floor and utilizes the stock placement of everything. I'd be open to upgrading the size of the rear pods.

Anyone have a thread that followed that format?

 

[JimV]

Once I get the enclosure out I was going to try a couple options. I have some Kicker 6.75 inch shallow mount woofers. Was going to try one of those but think the enclosure may be too flimsy for a little woofer like the kicker. They move quite a bit of air for being so small. If they are, probably something pretty mild from parts express.

This is what I'd do if I did this all over. Think it would be the perfect amount of bottom end.

 

[rutherk1]

Nice. Did you happen to test final load? I’d be curious to see if the woofer is wired for 1 ohms or 4.

 

[NathanML]

Nice. Did you happen to test final load? I’d be curious to see if the woofer is wired for 1 ohms or 4.

I don’t Have the car yet but I believe I read on this website that it was 4 or dual 2

 

[BigHoof]

Nice. Did you happen to test final load? I’d be curious to see if the woofer is wired for 1 ohms or 4.

The sticker on the speaker says 2x2 ohms.

I bought the 6.75 Kicker recommended above. My amp was supposed to be here today but got misplaced by UPS.

 

[rutherk1]

The sticker on the speaker says 2x2 ohms.

I bought the 6.75 Kicker recommended above. My amp was supposed to be here today but got misplaced by UPS.

Yeah. I saw a pic of one pulled apart and it says 2x2ohm but it’s wired how you would typically wire 2 voice coils in parallel for 1ohms. Although the way the amplifier is wire inside could result in a series connection. Id be leaning towards a 4 ohm load as 1 ohm stable cheap-o factory amp may not be the norm. No real way to tell.

I ordered a 2x2ohm bazooka replacement woofer for a 6 inch tube. Looks pretty similar to the OEM unit as far as magnet size and dimensions. We will see how it goes.

I would love to find a factory woofer just to keep it 100% stock. Just looking for a little extra bass/mid bass. I do have a basement full of old car audio gear but told myself I wasnt going to tear her apart for a complete upgrade.

If someone has a factory woofer, Id love to buy it from you!

Sponsored