Thanks for the info it helps!It's tight and you do have to trim about a 1/2 inch circle out to fit since the stock sub is so small. I'm not sure what the volume is but I used poly fill and sound deadener and it sounds good for a single 8". Here's a pic of what needed to be trimmed.
I think so to flatten the signal and then you can a cleaner sound from your sub (just how I see it). They are not necessary though.
They are almost exactly 1/2 of the weight of a Morel Maximo Ultra Coax Mk II.
Would be great if someone with an early 2023 could send you a list of how the radio was checked off in Forscan to compare with yours. Surely just some setting needs to be turned on to power the rear wires?
Agree! Here’s hoping! Hehehe
The hero we all deserve. Thanks for this. I’ll be doing the same but will see if I can locate a stock amp and sub.Ok. So I have succeeded using a Ford amp, an aftermarket sub, and FORScan. Please refer to my prior posts in this thread for additional detail. This post is specifically for those with a 2023 Bronco non-B&O sound system with a nonfunctional amp and sub.
My Bronco is a 4 door 2023 Badlands with a mid package and a non-functional amp and sub. As most have noted, the six-speaker sound system is horrible. My goal was to do the minimal amount possible and keep the factory look and feel. I didn't want to run extra wires, splice wires, etc., only using what was there and adding minimal effort to get a functioning amp and sub in the back to improve sound quality. I was not going after having the loudest or best-sounding system out there.
Tools Used:
Purchased Products:
- Plastic Trim Removal Tool Set
- Philips screwdriver (remove the nonfunctional amp from the stock sub enclosure
- Torx t20 (remove the sub from the enclosure)
- Router, and template to modify the sub enclosure (depending on speaker chosen, this may not be required)
Software and OBD:
- Dynamat Xtreme - Sound Dampening
- Dymamat Dynaliner - More sound dampening for the ambient noise with the cabinet
- A functioning non-B&O Ford Bronco sub amp from some upgrading on this forum (which at this point is very limited), or purchase this Ford Fusion amp -https://teamequip.com/fomoco-fp5t-1...und-system-amplifier-for-ford-fusion-t163700/. Both will work equally as well from my testing.
- Sub: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8; but if I were to redo this I would choose the Kicker 48CWRT672 - I'll explain further below; I know there are other subs other there that will work too; just watch the minimum watch, ohms (2ohm x 2ohm), and dual voice coil.
- Forscan version v2.3.51 https://forscan.org/download.html (got a trial license for two months)
- Windows 11 laptop to run ForScan with USB port for the Adapter
- OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter
Steps taken to get the Sub Installed and working:
Thats it! Ive tested it a few times now; turning the vehicle on and off, turning it up to the volume up to 25, and it works great! Actually its too loud now. Im leaving the Ford Fusion amp in and returned the other Bronco amp to the person that let me borrow it.
- Removed all back panels (floor, driver side, passenger side - where the sub is).
- Sound Dampening - Installed Dynamat and Dynaliner in key areas to remove rattles, vibrations and such. I didnt wall paper it all over the back, but added just enough to help.
- Removed the sub enclosure; Disconnecting the stock wiring harness from the non funcational amp and sub.
- Removed the non functional amp and sub from the Bronco
- Retrofit the sub enclosure cut-over diameter to fit the the 8" sub purchased (This is why I recommend the six inch Kicker, I do not believe any modification will be needed - so no cutting).
- Installed installation tape on the sub enclousre to seal the 8" sub
- Modified the stock sub speaker harness (not the stock amp harness); removing the sub terminal connecters. Then connected the sub to the modified sub harness.
- Mounted the sub back into the enclosure ensuring it was sealed and wires were connected
- Installed a functional Ford amp on the enclosure - no modding necessary
- Reinstalled the sub enclosure in the cabin; connecting the existing / stock wiring harness.
- Reinstalled all the panels.
- **** Tested to ensure the Bronco was still happy **** Turned the car on ensured the sound system worked and no issues.
- Took out the windows 11 laptop with FORScan installed and plugged in the OBX adapter. (keep in mind I had already requested a temporary license key for FORScan).
- Connected the the OBX adapter to the Bronco, already having FORScan up and running on the latptop.
- **** Connected to the Bronco and made a backup of the vehicle setting with FORScan *****
- Loaded the ACM Module to modify 727-01-01:
- Modified my as built from "382B 14F1 0098" changing only one character "4" to a "6"; I paused for a moment and noticed one other character changed as well automatically. I suspect this was the result of a checksum performed. The end result was my 727-01-01 line: "382B 16F1 009A"; Realize I only made the one character change "4 to 6" (14F1), but the "8" (0098)was changed automatically to "A".
- I wrote the change via FORScan to the vehicle; then restarted the vehicle. ***Again I would brush up on how to use FORScan before attempting this. Its not hard, just precise - so take your time.
- When I restarted the car, I noticed my stereo was now on AM. Also, all my settings for bass, mid and treble were set flat again. I believe this is part of the restart process.
- I tested the sytems now, and the sub was completely functional. I played it for about 15 minutes, changing different sound settings. The bass was overwhelming so I had to turn that down.
Lessoned Learned:
Please see the pics below for my settings after the change.
- Understand what FORScan does and how it works. I did not have any issues, but I can see how you can really cause issues rushing and not following steps. Don't just make changes and hope for the best. its precise.
- I would recommend the six inch kicker sub for the stock non-B&O enclosure as I expect you wont have to modify the sub existing enclosure much, its cheaper, and I alot of air movement from the 8" sub I installed in the stock enclosure (I didnt close the port). Finally (and this is a personal preference), The 8" inch sub is too much bass for me. I had to turn the bass way down.
- I still would upgrade the dash speakers to the Hertz 100.3. The kick panel and the rears, maybe. Currently, this project turned out better than expected.
Do we have part numbers on the stock non-B&O sub and amp?
Yep; thats pretty much it. Many folks on the forum have modifed the B&O system or put a sub in the back, under a seat, etc to get some low end and been happy. This was really about using a stock or semi stock (In the case Fusion amp) of the Ford amp and getting it to work with a small or no modification to the existing sub enclosure. Hope it helps
You can use this Ford Fusion amp -
Would you mind taking a pic of the part numbers for the factory sub and amp?
Hi, slight typo in the url causes a 404; if you edit to drop the trailing ";" it works fine.
