PSA - check your torque marks

[MilesTeg]

Many people don't know how to properly care for a click-type torque wrench. For one thing you should always dial them back to zero before storing them so the internal spring doesn't take a set. This isn't a problem with a split-beam design.

You actually need to check the instructions on what to store them at. Some are at lowest setting, some are at 0, some are at a low setting. All my torque wrenches state the storage setting on the gauge.

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[crenca]

I forget you have a manual right? Mine is so loud in low range when on and off the clutch. I'm pretty sure it's probably the Dual Mass flywheel.

This sounds right to me - the clanging of the springs running out of travel.

I wonder what it would be like without that play in the drive-line with a traditional single mass flywheel from the aftermarket? What would be chances of breaking something in 4L...sorry off topic

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

This sounds right to me - the clanging of the springs running out of travel.

I wonder what it would be like without that play in the drive-line with a traditional single mass flywheel from the aftermarket? What would be chances of breaking something in 4L...sorry off topic

Yeah wondering the same, especially with larger grippier tires. Someone posted an article the other day in another thread that talked about that, it basically said that yes there is greater chance of breakage without it.

ETA:
https://outbacktravelaustralia.com.au/4wd-mods-tech-torque/dual-mass-flywheels-explained/

 

[BCBlackDiamond]

You made me go check on mine last night when I read your post. I figured I’d check anything that was replaced with my lift and I found front UCA’s and rear LCA’s loose. Not quite how yours were but definitely loose enough to rattle going over bumps/humps.

 

[broadicustomworks]

FYI Your bump steer should be noticeably "to the bad" with loose UCA bolts.
It's how I found mine.
Also finally found the culprit for my steering having a "catch" you'd have to push past and then manually recenter after turning the wheel. (Orange straight line added to show what should be straight.)
Turns out to NOT be the rack.
When something doesn't feel right, as frustrating as the seek-n-find can be, definitely check it out.
Ended up replacing the lower shaft as well because that wobbly has been wobblin' for a while now and caused some collateral damage I am sure to that U joint and mating surface.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

FYI Your bump steer should be noticeably "to the bad" with loose UCA bolts.
It's how I found mine.
Also finally found the culprit for my steering having a "catch" you'd have to push past and then manually recenter after turning the wheel. (Orange straight line added to show what should be straight.)
Turns out to NOT be the rack.
When something doesn't feel right, as frustrating as the seek-n-find can be, definitely check it out.
Ended up replacing the lower shaft as well because that wobbly has been wobblin' for a while now and caused some collateral damage I am sure to that U joint and mating surface.

Wow.. How would that happen?

 

[ky.longshot]

So , how do you get your torque wrenches calibrated ?

 

[MilesTeg]

So , how do you get your torque wrenches calibrated ?

You can get them professionally done by contacting the maker or various shops that do it for you. Unfortunately, it's very expensive -- sometimes more expensive than buying a new one depending on the wrench.

You can do it yourself with either a commercial tool or with a little ingenuity.

https://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-a-Torque-Wrench

 

[ducksface]

I didn't read the thread
But
https://www.amazon.com/Tulip-20-Color-Multi-Surface-Waterproof-Permanent/dp/B01FE1JTDI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1MNW6CESA53QK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MDPKkrv4z5NTRPJiBvSM4oJ4Vl-8zsH9ckTKC5vctrN7ZQManS4hVKvgCBhAe68tqGWLxlUjOHtQPOrD0CR4VBrTctTT5yfjzO2kW5p5Q3juPibXZ-f4qJiBuLHqVlrfcrSRokprGzeskdLu3w5U6gQHTEtZANF5ei7DcTbHgCvkI0y6ZjryJ_IrdWArUHpzZsSqvMfjGcIvxoqTiEYXOg.uG8epfHE_kKwABPOv-aYD0lEg_-x71HDFXtY05gBkps&dib_tag=se&keywords=puff+paint&qid=1788234301&sprefix=puff+paint,aps,260&sr=8-1
Is what I use for marking things.
I have a spot of it on a key that's in my pocket/used daily. The spot has been there for 15years. It will peel off with my slightest of effort if I afford the effort.

I've used it as sealant on hydrophones 600ft deep.

It covers the sharp ends of the staples I used during plastic repair.

It's on the just a bit too long self tappers that I have under my rv hood so I don't slash myself open.

I use it to mark anything that needs marked.

It makes a reasonable gasket and is an excellent grout.

It makes fine little bumpers.

It is easy to mix exact custom colors.

It's just about the best electrical tape you can buy for doing splices and ends.

 

[broadicustomworks]

Wow.. How would that happen?

Sadly it is not some grand adventurous claim to fame and glory.
I hit a steel pole with a 36"X36" concrete footer at work, sheared it off level with the ground.
The front corner took a glancing blow (enough to crack my fiberglass fender and bend the bumper end).
The passenger tire took a direct hit.
I was just under whatever speed the airbags arm at because none of them blew.
Wheel jerked hard right out of my hand and I ate the steering wheel and upfitter switches.
Upfitters broke free and were up in the housing and I cracked the horn button and apparently bent that shaft in the process.
Ended up replacing both upper and lower arms, rack, tie rods, and both the upper and lower steering shafts.
But its back to driving like a new one finally!!!

 

[Valhalla]

You can get them professionally done by contacting the maker or various shops that do it for you. Unfortunately, it's very expensive -- sometimes more expensive than buying a new one depending on the wrench.

You can do it yourself with either a commercial tool or with a little ingenuity.

https://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-a-Torque-Wrench

Thanks!

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