PSA - check your torque marks

[HBTFD 2.0]

And one assumes the correct torque was applied by the original assembler.

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[userdude]

I may add...make sure your torque wrench is calibrated. While installing my ICON UCAs I was torquing said bolt and snapped it clean off.

Maaaannn, torquemaxxxing is getting outta hand!!

 

[PWillette]

Maaaannn, torquemaxxxing is getting outta hand!!

My thoughts were maybe a bad bolt...the thing is 16mm and I'm about 150lbs soaking wet.

 

[CalvinT]

I may add...make sure your torque wrench is calibrated. While installing my ICON UCAs I was torquing said bolt and snapped it clean off.

I tend to use only beam torque wrenches with a pointer whenever possible. You can tell at a glance if everything is ok. If nothing is bent or twisted you're good to go. No gears or springs to get out of whack. But they're not as convenient to use and require more care to use properly. You have to be able to see the dial head-on.

I may upgrade my 3/8 torque wrench to an ICON split-beam design.

Many people don't know how to properly care for a click-type torque wrench. For one thing you should always dial them back to zero before storing them so the internal spring doesn't take a set. This isn't a problem with a split-beam design.

 

[SierraBronco]

I tended to use only beam torque wrenches with a pointer whenever possible. You can tell at a glance if everything is ok. If nothing is bent or twisted you're good to go. No gears or springs to get out of whack. But they're not as convenient to use and require more care to use properly. You have to be able to see the dial head-on.

I may upgrade my 3/8 torque wrench to an ICON split-beam design.

Many people don't know how to properly care for a click-type torque wrench. For one thing you should always dial them back to zero before storing them so the internal spring doesn't take a set. This isn't a problem with a split-beam design.

I usually dial my 250 torques per burger craftsman back, but I also use it as a hammer when convenient. That’s fine right?

 

[PWillette]

I tended to use only beam torque wrenches with a pointer whenever possible. You can tell at a glance if everything is ok. If nothing is bent or twisted you're good to go. No gears or springs to get out of whack. But they're not as convenient to use and require more care to use properly. You have to be able to see the dial head-on.

I may upgrade my 3/8 torque wrench to an ICON split-beam design.

Many people don't know how to properly care for a click-type torque wrench. For one thing you should always dial them back to zero before storing them so the internal spring doesn't take a set. This isn't a problem with a split-beam design.

Yes, definatley need to store them at zero when not being used and they really should be recalibrated often. Used to have a couple of split beams but lost them in a fire, replaced with the click type.

 

[CalvinT]

I usually dial my 250 torques per burger craftsman back, but I also use it as a hammer when convenient. That’s fine right?

Only if you strike calibrated blows. Otherwise you can knock it out of whack. BTW "out of whack" is a technical term.

 

[SierraBronco]

Only if you strike calibrated blows. Otherwise you can knock it out of whack. BTW "out of whack" is a technical term.

I frequently curl the big-boi 20 pound dumbbells. Consider me calibrated.

 

[5GENIDN]

My thoughts were maybe a bad bolt...the thing is 16mm and I'm about 150lbs soaking wet.

It is not the size of dog in the fight, It is the size of fight in the dog!

 

[CalvinT]

My thoughts were maybe a bad bolt...the thing is 16mm and I'm about 150lbs soaking wet.

Just scold it and send it to its room without dinner. You have to show it who's boss.

 

[PWillette]

Just scold it and send it to its room without dinner. You have to show it who's boss.

I was for sure scolding...and swearing like a pissed off sailor. Silver lining, my local dealer actually had one in stock.

 

[userdude]

Only if you strike calibrated blows. Otherwise you can knock it out of whack. BTW "out of whack" is a technical term.

I would say you should only use it on whack jobs.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

Hmm very possibly. I can’t recall what I was hearing there as I was concentrating on the line, I do have some driveline lash that will crunk like that too (but doesn’t sound nearly so loud, at least from inside)

I forget you have a manual right? Mine is so loud in low range when on and off the clutch. I'm pretty sure it's probably the Dual Mass flywheel.

 

[timhood]

For those that don’t want to read the novel: use a paint pen to mark after you torque bolts. Check them often.

Well, I needed new UCAs anyway, the bushing in this one is obviously shot (can see it in pieces by the head of the bolt there). It all snugged back up when I put the nut back on, but I will have to bump up my purchasing timeline some I reckon.

Might I recommend the BRBN UCAs? They will outlast the entire rest of the Bronco.

And you really can't tell how serious these are from this photo, so:

Edit: Just saw the tires you're running, so you definitely want a capable UCA.

 

[timhood]

I may add...make sure your torque wrench is calibrated. While installing my ICON UCAs I was torquing said bolt and snapped it clean off.

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