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JonD

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This was a great thread
 

Bill K

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You can always use a fluid extractor / vacuum to get the gear oil out. You can get them as cheap as 20$ or all the way to like 300$.
I see a future use for my mitivac...
 

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Razorbak86

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Why are you looking on the rear diff cover for the drain plug?

Typically the drain plug on Dana 220's is fore of the axle, below the drive shaft and on one side (generally the drivers side)

1651186175578.png


Via the M220 rear diff on the Ranger:

https://www.therangerstation.com/ra...ana-m220-rear-axle-fluid-change-instructions/
There is no drain plug on my 2021 Bronco Badlands' Dana M220 rear differential, and none referenced in the TSM either. 🤷‍♂️

I find it strange that Rangers and Broncos built on the same assembly line have different specs for the M220 components. :unsure:
 

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Rick Astley

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There is no drain plug on my 2021 Bronco Badlands' Dana M220 rear differential, and none referenced in the TSM either. 🤷‍♂️

I find it strange that Rangers and Broncos built on the same assembly line have different specs for the M220 components. :unsure:
It's an odd spec to remove the cover for draining. Suppose it's good for book-time but little else.

@Rocketeer Rick has indicated a few times over the Bronco launch that there's a few instances of Ford getting a specific drivetrain/driveline part that is outside of the norm for the manufacturer.

For Ranger/Bronco parts: it's certainly possible that parts changed for dual-use once MY21 came around. Now i'm curious and will check on our '19 Ranger (Lariat with FX4 package) rear diff.
 

jon_henson

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Rocketeer Rick

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It's an odd spec to remove the cover for draining. Suppose it's good for book-time but little else.
In this case, it extremely common. Uncommon, actually, is an axle with a dedicated drain plug, though I have seen it. IIRC, the rear axle on the Mazda 323GTX that I owned had a drain plug. So it was on at least one obscure Japanese car... :cool:

I will note that the manufacturer does not fill the axle till the oil comes out of the fill port. The oil is typically poured into the axle after the ring & pinion, diff and axle shafts are installed, but the axle is still on a pallet on the assembly line facing nose down, before the cover installation. The fill plug is not used for filling at the factory. The oil is dumped in, the sealant is applied, and the cover goes on. At least that's what Ford does in the their axle plant, I presume Dana has a similar process.

It is very common, in my experience, on modern vehicles for the fill level to be just high enough for the ring gear to paddle through and not high enough to actually touch the main body of the differential itself. The ring gear is extremely effective at splashing the oil around to the important areas, and any extra oil is drag. Might sound silly, but car makers play the game of MPG optimization seriously - even on brick shaped 4x4s. Ford also dropped using their 75W-140 axle oil close to 10 years ago in favor of 75W-85 to reduce windage in the axle. The moral of the story is that you can't assume that the oil level is low just because you couldn't feel it on your finger.
 
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Mean Red GT

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In this case, it extremely common. Uncommon, actually, is an axle with a dedicated drain plug, though I have seen it. IIRC, the rear axle on the Mazda 323GTX that I owned had a drain plug. So it was on at least one obscure Japanese car... :cool:
Our Toyota Tundra, Honda CRV and Ford Mustang all have rear diff drain plugs.
 

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Rocketeer Rick

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Our Toyota Tundra, Honda CRV and Ford Mustang all have rear diff drain plugs.
The CRV and Mustang are IRS applications with structural mounting ears on the cover, if I'm not mistaken. The Tundra has, IIRC, a bolt-out third member. In each case, there isn't a simple cover that you can pop off for easy service because that part is actually load bearing. Same was true on the Mazda I referred to. Also, Toyota just likes to over kill their truck parts. But with conventional axles with conventional covers, a drain plug is rare these days.
 

cardad

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In this case, it extremely common. Uncommon, actually, is an axle with a dedicated drain plug, though I have seen it. IIRC, the rear axle on the Mazda 323GTX that I owned had a drain plug. So it was on at least one obscure Japanese car... :cool:

I will note that the manufacturer does not fill the axle till the oil comes out of the fill port. The oil is typically poured into the axle after the ring & pinion, diff and axle shafts are installed, but the axle is still on a pallet on the assembly line facing nose down, before the cover installation. The fill plug is not used for filling at the factory. The oil is dumped in, the sealant is applied, and the cover goes on. At least that's what Ford does in the their axle plant, I presume Dana has a similar process.

It is very common, in my experience, on modern vehicles for the fill level to be just high enough for the ring gear to paddle through and not high enough to actually touch the main body of the differential itself. The ring gear is extremely effective at splashing the oil around to the important areas, and any extra oil is drag. Might sound silly, but car makers play the game of MPG optimization seriously - even on brick shaped 4x4s. Ford also dropped using their 75W-140 axle oil close to 10 years ago in favor of 75W-85 to reduce windage in the axle. The moral of the story is that you can't assume that the oil level is low just because you couldn't feel it on your finger.
What I don’t understand is why the OP would go about taking their car apart when this would clearly be a warranty issue. Seems counter intuitive to “take care” of it when the dealer can do it for you and has access to TSBs, etc.

I’ve had a lot of engine and tranny warranty stuff done and at no point would it have been beneficial to start taking things apart to self-diagnose. The easiest thing you can do is read the OBD code and then at least you have a clue.
 
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4xFord

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What I don’t understand is why the OP would go about taking their car apart when this would clearly be a warranty issue. Seems counter intuitive to “take care” of it when the dealer can do it for you and has access to TSBs, etc.

I’ve had a lot of engine and tranny warranty stuff done and at no point would it have been beneficial to start taking things apart to self-diagnose. The easiest thing you can do is read the OBD code and then at least you have a clue.
If you think two minutes spent pulling a fill plug is "taking things apart" you deserve every afternoon you spend at the dealership.
 
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4xFord

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BTW

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cardad

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If you think two minutes spent pulling a fill plug is "taking things apart" you deserve every afternoon you spend at the dealership.
I thought he said he took his diff cover off. Also I’ve mostly driven electric cars the last 4 years so I’ve spent very little unwanted time at any dealership other than getting a Porsche loaner or a free Audi car wash while enjoying a drink and cookie.
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