110v A/C power inverter options?

[rallyracks]

Hi all, currently going between base builds without Mid package, and Big Bend builds with it. The safety features I really like in it, but it’s not necessarily a dealbreaker - especially because it means the ability to step up to 2.7 V6 on the base.

But, I keep coming back to the 110v outlet too. It would be really handy to power stuff for camping, have the ability to charge and operate anything with a normal plug. What are the options out there for a 110v inverter that you can wire into the car’s 12v system? I knew very little about electronics and don’t know the difficulty on how to install one of these and what is required. Anyone with Jeeps or other overlanding-type rigs have something aftermarket for this?

Something else to keep in mind is the fact that the outlet will most likely only work with the engine running or possibly key in the ignition. Also like others have said it won't be a super high wattage one regardless. However, might be enough if you just need to charge stuff during the day on the road to camp.

I've got a bit of experience building camper vehicles and I always chat with folks about being clear on what they need power for. So many things these days run natively on 12v. Almost always it comes down to if they travel with a laptop (which can be charged during the day)

If you find that you are needing dedicated 110v power for heavier use the typical route would be to get a dual battery/house battery setup with an inverter. But that can be pricey for sure.

Hope that's helpful.

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[MaverickMan]

I thonk the stock one seems pretty pathetic. Hoping there is an upgrade in accessories list. I run a 750 in my 96 Bronco for the fridge. It is wired direct to my battery however after a couple years with it and 4 more in my van before that, I have decided to make some changes. I will be installing a second battery, hope the new Bronco gas room for this under hood. Then I will put a 100 watt hood mount solar panel on the hood and in cabin have one of what seems to be a new generation of inexpensive 1500 watt inverter with built in solar charge controller and breakers. I will keep the system stand alone from the vehicle but will keep a set of short cables under the hood to connect the solar battery to the starter and power the inverter on gas if its cloudy for days.

This should keep my drinks frosty 24/7 and have all the power I need for camping. I have previously maintained my fridge battery with only 50 watt panel and no charge controller so the hood mount 100 watt units should be great.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

Hi all, currently going between base builds without Mid package, and Big Bend builds with it. The safety features I really like in it, but it’s not necessarily a dealbreaker - especially because it means the ability to step up to 2.7 V6 on the base.

But, I keep coming back to the 110v outlet too. It would be really handy to power stuff for camping, have the ability to charge and operate anything with a normal plug. What are the options out there for a 110v inverter that you can wire into the car’s 12v system? I knew very little about electronics and don’t know the difficulty on how to install one of these and what is required. Anyone with Jeeps or other overlanding-type rigs have something aftermarket for this?

I put and energizer 500w inverter under the passenger seat in my Jeep. I run it through a relay so it is only on when the acc is on. I’ll try to get pics tomorrow.

 

[Techun]

I thonk the stock one seems pretty pathetic. Hoping there is an upgrade in accessories list. I run a 750 in my 96 Bronco for the fridge. It is wired direct to my battery however after a couple years with it and 4 more in my van before that, I have decided to make some changes. I will be installing a second battery, hope the new Bronco gas room for this under hood. Then I will put a 100 watt hood mount solar panel on the hood and in cabin have one of what seems to be a new generation of inexpensive 1500 watt inverter with built in solar charge controller and breakers. I will keep the system stand alone from the vehicle but will keep a set of short cables under the hood to connect the solar battery to the starter and power the inverter on gas if its cloudy for days.

This should keep my drinks frosty 24/7 and have all the power I need for camping. I have previously maintained my fridge battery with only 50 watt panel and no charge controller so the hood mount 100 watt units should be great.

There's a 12v power port in the trunk, not sure if it's ignition switched or not.

 

[Techun]

So many things these days run natively on 12v.

Yup. I have a dell laptop charger that accepts ac or dc.

 

[MaverickMan]

There's a 12v power port in the trunk, not sure if it's ignition switched or not.

My fridge likes ac better, and I dont like running the vehicles starting battery down all the time. With a 100 watt panel the fridge should run indefinitely on solar. I also like the option of running power tools like grinders or battery chargers or camp lights. Whatever the day requires. The 12v ports dont do much for me but charge a phone and they usually arent very powerful.

Everything needed to run a system like I described is about $400-500

 

[JesseS]

I build and install solar/inverter systems for RV's, mine is 800 watts solar with a 3KW sinewave whole house inverter, and a 40 amp solar controller feeding 300AH of lithium house batteries, so when off grid we have plenty of power for the Micro, heater, TV, and all of the other stuff my wife brings along. I hate running the genset, ruins the peace and quiet.

 

[JesseS]

I thonk the stock one seems pretty pathetic. Hoping there is an upgrade in accessories list. I run a 750 in my 96 Bronco for the fridge. It is wired direct to my battery however after a couple years with it and 4 more in my van before that, I have decided to make some changes. I will be installing a second battery, hope the new Bronco gas room for this under hood. Then I will put a 100 watt hood mount solar panel on the hood and in cabin have one of what seems to be a new generation of inexpensive 1500 watt inverter with built in solar charge controller and breakers. I will keep the system stand alone from the vehicle but will keep a set of short cables under the hood to connect the solar battery to the starter and power the inverter on gas if its cloudy for days.

This should keep my drinks frosty 24/7 and have all the power I need for camping. I have previously maintained my fridge battery with only 50 watt panel and no charge controller so the hood mount 100 watt units should be great.

A 100 watt panel is bulky, and will only supply about 5.5 amps in full sun. Try a tri-fold soft side folding panel, easy to store and no glass to break. I use a 220 watt one for when I park under trees with a 100' cord to keep my batteries charged. It will supply 8-9 amps for a longer time due to a larger surface area. and be easier to carry. Has a built in charge controller and 2 USB ports.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SZMFP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[XirallicBolts]

I have three different makita chargers. I'm sure the single slot slow charger is way under 400w. Slow chargers are better for battery life anyway.

Battery chargers tend to be finicky with OEM vehicle inverters since it's not a clean sine wave.

The Milwaukee rapid chargers, despite drawing over 150 watts, work fine on my Flex's built-in inverter. The Makita charger instantly faults out. I don't know if it's a slow or rapid charger though. I know it has a fan.

 

[MaverickMan]

Battery chargers tend to be finicky with OEM vehicle inverters since it's not a clean sine wave.

The Milwaukee rapid chargers, despite drawing over 150 watts, work fine on my Flex's built-in inverter. The Makita charger instantly faults out. I don't know if it's a slow or rapid charger though. I know it has a fan.

My wifes makita charger wont run on a 2000 watt trucker type inverter. But my ego 56volt charger runs 250 watts and charges in 90 min no problem.

 

[MaverickMan]

A 100 watt panel is bulky, and will only supply about 5.5 amps in full sun. Try a tri-fold soft side folding panel, easy to store and no glass to break. I use a 220 watt one for when I park under trees with a 100' cord to keep my batteries charged. It will supply 8-9 amps for a longer time due to a larger surface area. and be easier to carry. Has a built in charge controller and 2 USB ports.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SZMFP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Im not talking heavy glass panels. The 10 year old 50 watt one I use now(for all kinds of stuff) is like that but its smallish so not bad. What my plan is for my 96 bronco abd eventually my 6G is to have a secondary power system on board for daily use. A 100 watt flexible panel on the hood or roof(can never find shade in maui) run to a inverter with built in charge controller under the seat to a deep cycle battery under the hood. Will keep my 22quart fridge/freezer ice cold all day and night. Plus power for other stuff when needed.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

I put and energizer 500w inverter under the passenger seat in my Jeep. I run it through a relay so it is only on when the acc is on. I’ll try to get pics tomorrow.

@NoDoorsNoProblem - here is my DIY Energizer 500 Watt Power Inverter setup:

The wiring is sized for the amps and the run length (google wire size based on amps and voltage) and runs up to a Stinger relay and blade fuse by the battery in the engine compartment:

The relay is connected to an ACC switched fuse in the fuse box so my kids would leave the thing charging their laptops without the engine running:

 

[NoDoorsNoProblem]

@NoDoorsNoProblem - here is my DIY Energizer 500 Watt Power Inverter setup:

The wiring is sized for the amps and the run length (google wire size based on amps and voltage) and runs up to a Stinger relay and blade fuse by the battery in the engine compartment:

The relay is connected to an ACC switched fuse in the fuse box so my kids would leave the thing charging their laptops without the engine running:

That's pretty awesome, something like that I think would fit the bill for what I would want. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but the electronics stuff scares me when it comes to cars, I feel like I always hear about someone trying to wire in a subwoofer that ends up shorting out the rest of their electronics or something. Time to dust off the old EE study guides. Did you install yourself?

 

[JonD]

That's pretty awesome, something like that I think would fit the bill for what I would want. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but the electronics stuff scares me when it comes to cars, I feel like I always hear about someone trying to wire in a subwoofer that ends up shorting out the rest of their electronics or something. Time to dust off the old EE study guides. Did you install yourself?

One of the best forum posts so far!!!!

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

That's pretty awesome, something like that I think would fit the bill for what I would want. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but the electronics stuff scares me when it comes to cars, I feel like I always hear about someone trying to wire in a subwoofer that ends up shorting out the rest of their electronics or something. Time to dust off the old EE study guides. Did you install yourself?

Yes - the trick was finding the way through the firewall from the battery, but a little googling and the answer was pictured. (This we will all have to discover and share when we get our Broncos. You won’t find DIY info on Bronco Nation, but Bronco6G here will be a fun place full of discovery ...)

Basically though, I took the current at 12v from the specs, and bought a fuse and relay to handle the current, and then looked up wire gauge for that current and approximate run length

From there, you’re just looking for a ground point and something switched to ACC for the relay.

Wire, connectors and some flex loom and you’re all set.

Also, the Energizer inverter comes with a light plug connection option, but you wouldn’t get to full wattage through 5amp lighter socket.

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