2023 7-speaker with REAL sub wiring diagram?

[Wirenut20]

Here is the information for the male end to the green subwoofer connector
Motorcraft WPT-1016 / Ford 3U2Z-14S411-FFB

https://www.amazon.com/replacement-Connector-terminals-Motorcraft-3U2Z-14S411-FFB/dp/B085XLPSPP

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[Dads_bronze_bronco]

Good morning! I've been looking for some advice and this thread seems to have a TON of knowledge I have a 2023 Black diamond four-door Bronco and I am replacing the basic sub with a b&o version. I assumed this would be a plug and play thing... But definitely is not. I recognize one of the plugs in your picture in this post. The brown one with the white around the edge. That is what I currently have going into the basic setup. I will also note that the basic sub that I have doesn't do anything, which is quite confusing to me. I will attach 2 pictures of what is there for the basic setup, then 2 pictures of what I'm trying to plug into, which is the b&o amplifier... And there is also a green plug at the top of the sub box that I do not have any input for. I assume there is a wiring harness but I have been unable to locate that via Google searches. Any input you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I don’t know enough about the B&O signal processing amp and plugs to know if you have what you need back there.

On your current sub not working, check to see if your window sticker says “subwoofer delete“ on it. I read somewhere the Broncos that come with subwoofer delete have dummy amps and subs plugged in back there.

 

[Ep24Bronco]

Thanks for the replies in advance. Can anyone tell me if the factory subwoofer cutoff frequency is happening within the ACM or within the subwoofer amplifier. I heard the OEM rear sub does not play above ~150 Hz but don't know if that cutoff is happening within the ACM or within the subwoofer amplifier. I wonder if the signal from the ACM to the sub amp is a full signal or not. Thinking about swapping the OEM woofer with a full range 8”. I want to use the original wire feeding the amp. I understand I might need to swap the OEM amp too if the thing changes the frequency below 150Hz. I have the 7 none B&O speaker system with working sub .

 

[Ep24Bronco]

Ohh.. do they make a plug and play Y connection just like the one for the kicker key but one that can be use for any amp?

 

[Jfusik58]

Are you talking from the Audio Control Module to the Amplifier? Or out of Amplifier to the sub?

Just put focus amp and kicker in my 23 big bend and dead silence from sub..looks like no power to amp hopefully the fuse is missing and so it begins. Thank you for posting the wiring diagram.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Just put focus amp and kicker in my 23 big bend and dead silence from sub..looks like no power to amp hopefully the fuse is missing and so it begins. Thank you for posting the wiring diagram.

Don't take this the wrong way . . . but has it been enabled via Forscan (or otherwise)?

 

[Ep24Bronco]

Hi, everyone. So did someone figure out if the signal going to the factory working amp and woofer is “full range signal and “hot” like regular speaker” before it hits the amp? Then the amp converts the signal in order to drive the woofer. Some one said that I need to “ tap into the subwoofer wire then add a converter to the new amp I want to add because if I remove the stock sub amp, the signal from the head unit will be lost . So to me it’s weird, factory amp, to signal converter to new amp to new speakers. common sense tells me to remove the stock sub amp and sub, use the factory wire to new amp to new speaker but I dnt know. The issue is I do not know if the signal coming from the head unit is “speaker signal” that I need the converters of just add rca tips and connected to the new amp. Of course running new ground and power cable to meet the amps specs.

 

[Juiceisloose]

On the wiring diagram, is the yellow/violet EN/CLIP the remote turn on?

Did you ever get an answer to this question?

 

[Snakk Attakk]

Can anyone determine what gauge that yellow-red subwoofer amp power cable to the battery junction box is? I have it in my notes that it is 12-gauge, but in that photo it looks pretty beefy.

 

[mandark]

Found it! Sub wiring diagram:

Photos of the wires in the grey head unit connector:

Images of the connection to the DSP in the rear panel:

So, is the grey head connector for the sub and is there a different one for the 4 channel?

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

So, I am trying to remember but there were two plugs into the head unit, a black one and a gray one. Since my pic up there shows the sub wiring in the gray, then the other 4 channels are in the black one.

The amp plug-n-play harness I bought plugged in between the 4 channel one and the head unit (I think).

 

[mandark]

So, I am trying to remember but there were two plugs into the head unit, a black one and a gray one. Since my pic up there shows the sub wiring in the gray, then the other 4 channels are in the black one.

The amp plug-n-play harness I bought plugged in between the 4 channel one and the head unit (I think).

Hmmm. Wonder if there is a harness for the subwoofer one that goes to an amp.

 

[mdube72]

Hmmm. Wonder if there is a harness for the subwoofer one that goes to an amp.

@mandark - from one of the other threads - Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness for Select Chrysler/Dodge Vehicles (known to work with the subwoofer swap but the polarity is reversed)
I suppose you could run longer leads from these to an Amp, but I understand these connect to the factory B&O subwoofer connecters inside the encloser - assuming you are removing the B&O sub.....

 

[mandark]

@mandark - from one of the other threads - Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness for Select Chrysler/Dodge Vehicles (known to work with the subwoofer swap but the polarity is reversed)
I suppose you could run longer leads from these to an Amp, but I understand these connect to the factory B&O subwoofer connecters inside the encloser - assuming you are removing the B&O sub.....

My bronco does not have a b&o system. Its a 7 speaker with working sub. I want to feed the subwoofer output and the 4 channel output from acm to a different amp

 

[Badlands75]

I replaced the existing OEM sub and (real) amp with Kicker 8” and 500.1. Also, installed the kicker key 200.4 and ran the wiring harness from plug n play with the signal wire connecting to the 500.1 along with upgrading the power wire to the 500.1. With this installation I’m curious what others have done/best practices for the OEM abandoned signal wiring and power cable to the now removed OEM amp. Appears this is all contained in the same OEM harness and a pain to remove. For now I’ve simply unplugged. Should I take a time to remove the wiring or is it OK like this, just left unplugged? Any power running from the battery to the OEM amp? Thanks in advance.

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