2023 7 speaker subwoofer upgrade

[jshapz]

Final update first:
TLDR: Save some money and time by not worrying about the Key 200.4. Also I would leave the stock kick panel speakers alone as well. Don't get me wrong, now that everything is done its great but the key didn't boost the system much more then the stock unit. Really all the bass is still coming from the rear 8in kicker which sounds fantastic.

My biggest concerns were the speakers clipping with the new amp and the signal going to the back 500.1 amp. The speakers did clip and hit the limiter at around 20 before running the DSP set up. I also had to set the filter on the last 2 dip switches. My 200.4 settings from left to right are: Down up up up up up down up. The last 2 set the filter and really made the difference. I can turn the volume up to 30 with no issues. I also didn't adjust the gain at all and it wasn't really needed. Once you bump the gain a little bit it would hit the limiter. Lastly I ran the inputs to the 500.1 off the kick panel speaker wire. This caused no issues with the new 200.4 installed. In fact it actually cleaned up a few songs that had a weird freq, I listen to a lot of rap.

Another edit: I struck thru some text above. I got bored and messed with some stuff again. I pulled out the 4in focal dash speakers and replaced the 300hz filter with a 1200hz filter. I was then able to disable the filter on the kicker 200.4 amp. So my last 2 dip switches are now in the UP position. This put more bass back into the system. Reran the kicker key algorithm and now my dash speakers are essentially tweeters now. This might sound dumb, but I get so much bass from the sub I don't need whatever little mid bass those speakers put out.

If you're still reading, save your time and money and install 4 new 4in speakers and the kicker 8in full size sub.
Amp - $280
RF kick panel speakers - $80 * 2
Wiring harness - $175
Power wiring kit for 200.4 - $40
This was the money wasted, close to $700

Ok guys I'm going to try and keep this post kinda short because I know there's a lot of info out there for upgrading speakers and everything already. This is just to show that the new subwoofer, which I know is going to get removed in some of the new builds, is different then the B&O model from '22. I'm pretty sure its the same subwoofer as the '22 Badlands Raptor though.


This is the stock photo I took before I removed it. The box and amp have changed. You can see the 5 pin connector hanging on the left side.

The hole is probably 6in, here is a picture with a recessed can drill bit.

This is the 8in kicker sub cutout. I used a jigsaw to cut the hole wider. I wasn't very careful and that jigsaw broke some plastic off making the hole bigger then I wanted. Still worked out ok.

I wanted to mount the amp to the box because the Kicker 8 gauge wiring kit doesn't have enough slack to reach the rear pillar that other people mounted it to. I ordered a $20 piece of plastic off Amazon and put some sound deadening stuff on there. Screwed the amp to it and screwed it to the box in the next picture.

Here's a picture of it mounted in, but didn't replace the trim because it was like 1am by now. I did take it to an empty parking lot and run the Kicker key algorithm and got it tuned in. I stuffed the box with polyfill and ran the speaker wires through the little U shaped channel on the left side of the speaker. This one isn't drilled out the back like the old model.

Here's another shot in the morning light. I had to trim the plastic off because I was blocking the clips hole.

Alright so I got the trim back on and this is my biggest regret. I mounted the amp to high and there was no real reason to mount it at an angle. The amp is pressing into the trim and caused a nice little stress crack in the plastic. Truly I don't care, as long as it doesn't get worse. I'm not ripping everything apart just to move the amp down.

Bonus pic, not sure why as a grown ass man I don't have a good work light still. I used my daughters vanity mirror that's USB powered hooked up to a battery pack. Also I did lay the Kilmat down all over the back area.

Overall, this thing bumps hard. It's nothing like my old 15" but it surprised the hell out of me for its size. I barely touched the gain, only moving it up a hair during the Kicker algorithm. You can barely feel anything around the 9ish range, but it bumps at 14+. Top down fully down today and around 60mph it was awesome at around 22 volume.

Side notes about all the work: I ran my own wires for the line in from the 6in kick panel speakers. I plan on getting the Kicker Key 200w amp installed soon but supposedly this is going to cause issues going to the 500w amp. Not really sure why and I'm really curious to test it out. Everyone says its because the speaker signal is amplified coming from the new amp. But the speaker signal is currently amplified from the head unit so not sure how its any different. Its probably only a 20W difference. Also I changed out the kick panel speakers with a set of Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6. These currently sound like shit with the stock head unit. I bought them because the money wasn't an issue and I didn't want to cheap out on a set and have to redo all that work. Replacing those speakers suck. So as of now they're staying in but I hope the Kicker Key 200.4 really adds some more power to them. They are 4lbs heavier then the stock speakers, so I know they have to be able to hit. Replaced the other 4 speakers with the Focal set that everyone recommends. I did 300hz blockers in the dash but I really regret not using 600hz. I may fix it one day but definitely not now.

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[RagnarKon]

Nice thanks for the pics!!

Ya know… I could probably buy those plastic mounting pieces as well as the rear trim piece from a dealer and install my own subwoofer on my 2022MY.

Mmmm I’ll have to think about that one some more. So far I’ve just replaced the 6 factory speakers, but would be nice to have a bit more low end. Although if I do that I’ll lose that handy storage pocket back there, and not sure I want to give that up.

I'm pretty sure its the same subwoofer as the '22 Badlands though.

The only way to get a sub in 2021/2022MY was with the Lux package. Badlands came with the standard 6-speaker setup that everyone else got.

 

[jshapz]

I misspoke, it was the new raptors that included the 7 speaker system. Thread

Now as to if it’s worth it. I think it is. That kicker hits hard and evens it all out. It’s just up to you on if it’s worth your time. Running the power wire took longer then I thought. Also cutting and mounting wasn’t to easy, but now that I’m done I’m glad I did it.

Nice thanks for the pics!!

Ya know… I could probably buy those plastic mounting pieces as well as the rear trim piece from a dealer and install my own subwoofer on my 2022MY.

Mmmm I’ll have to think about that one some more. So far I’ve just replaced the 6 factory speakers, but would be nice to have a bit more low end. Although if I do that I’ll lose that handy storage pocket back there, and not sure I want to give that up.


The only way to get a sub in 2021/2022MY was with the Lux package. Badlands came with the standard 6-speaker setup that everyone else got.

 

[2020FordRaptor]

Ok guys I'm going to try and keep this post kinda short because I know there's a lot of info out there for upgrading speakers and everything already. This is just to show that the new subwoofer, which I know is going to get removed in some of the new builds, is different then the B&O model from '22. I'm pretty sure its the same subwoofer as the '22 Badlands though.


This is the stock photo I took before I removed it. The box and amp have changed. You can see the 5 pin connector hanging on the left side.

The hole is probably 6in, here is a picture with a recessed can drill bit.

This is the 8in kicker sub cutout. I used a jigsaw to cut the hole wider. I wasn't very careful and that jigsaw broke some plastic off making the hole bigger then I wanted. Still worked out ok.

I wanted to mount the amp to the box because the Kicker 8 gauge wiring kit doesn't have enough slack to reach the rear pillar that other people mounted it to. I ordered a $20 piece of plastic off Amazon and put some sound deadening stuff on there. Screwed the amp to it and screwed it to the box in the next picture.

Here's a picture of it mounted in, but didn't replace the trim because it was like 1am by now. I did take it to an empty parking lot and run the Kicker key algorithm and got it tuned in. I stuffed the box with polyfill and ran the speaker wires through the little U shaped channel on the left side of the speaker. This one isn't drilled out the back like the old model.

Here's another shot in the morning light. I had to trim the plastic off because I was blocking the clips hole.

Alright so I got the trim back on and this is my biggest regret. I mounted the amp to high and there was no real reason to mount it at an angle. The amp is pressing into the trim and caused a nice little stress crack in the plastic. Truly I don't care, as long as it doesn't get worse. I'm not ripping everything apart just to move the amp down.

Bonus pic, not sure why as a grown ass man I don't have a good work light still. I used my daughters vanity mirror that's USB powered hooked up to a battery pack. Also I did lay the Kilmat down all over the back area.

Overall, this thing bumps hard. It's nothing like my old 15" but it surprised the hell out of me for its size. I barely touched the gain, only moving it up a hair during the Kicker algorithm. You can barely feel anything around the 9ish range, but it bumps at 14+. Top down fully down today and around 60mph it was awesome at around 22 volume.

Side notes about all the work: I ran my own wires for the line in from the 6in kick panel speakers. I plan on getting the Kicker Key 200w amp installed soon but supposedly this is going to cause issues going to the 500w amp. Not really sure why and I'm really curious to test it out. Everyone says its because the speaker signal is amplified coming from the new amp. But the speaker signal is currently amplified from the head unit so not sure how its any different. Its probably only a 20W difference. Also I changed out the kick panel speakers with a set of Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6. These currently sound like shit with the stock head unit. I bought them because the money wasn't an issue and I didn't want to cheap out on a set and have to redo all that work. Replacing those speakers suck. So as of now they're staying in but I hope the Kicker Key 200.4 really adds some more power to them. They are 4lbs heavier then the stock speakers, so I know they have to be able to hit. Replaced the other 4 speakers with the Focal set that everyone recommends. I did 300hz blockers in the dash but I really regret not using 600hz. I may fix it one day but definitely not now.

Nice writeup and awesome pics!

 

[Ogre]

This is exactly what I want to do. Thanks for sharing your process and thoughts with us.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

OP thank you very much for documenting and sharing. Now waiting to see what the 7-speaker sub-deleted systems look like once they are delivered, but it's great to see the as-intended original MY23 setup as the starting point (for those of us still waiting). Very encouraging to hear that the audible payoff appears to be worth the time/effort.

 

[Newdoc]

Now waiting to see what the 7-speaker sub-deleted systems look like once they are delivered

Good work by the OP.

There should be a few of these sub deletes delivered to members in the next few weeks with the cutoff for the sub delete being right in the middle of the 12/19 blend week.

I would imagine there will be nothing in that space so with my build's sub delete (12/22 blend), I have already looked at options as well. The Stealthbox release is supposed to be released this month but I imagine this will run north of $800. The OP did some nice work which is likely what I would have done if supplied with the factory sub or at least the enclosure.

Not sure I will source the box aftermarket. I may even put a hideaway in that panel area. I want full sound and don't need to entertain the neighbors.

 

[nwGTS]

Ok guys I'm going to try and keep this post kinda short because I know there's a lot of info out there for upgrading speakers and everything already. This is just to show that the new subwoofer, which I know is going to get removed in some of the new builds, is different then the B&O model from '22. I'm pretty sure its the same subwoofer as the '22 Badlands though.


This is the stock photo I took before I removed it. The box and amp have changed. You can see the 5 pin connector hanging on the left side.

The hole is probably 6in, here is a picture with a recessed can drill bit.

This is the 8in kicker sub cutout. I used a jigsaw to cut the hole wider. I wasn't very careful and that jigsaw broke some plastic off making the hole bigger then I wanted. Still worked out ok.

I wanted to mount the amp to the box because the Kicker 8 gauge wiring kit doesn't have enough slack to reach the rear pillar that other people mounted it to. I ordered a $20 piece of plastic off Amazon and put some sound deadening stuff on there. Screwed the amp to it and screwed it to the box in the next picture.

Here's a picture of it mounted in, but didn't replace the trim because it was like 1am by now. I did take it to an empty parking lot and run the Kicker key algorithm and got it tuned in. I stuffed the box with polyfill and ran the speaker wires through the little U shaped channel on the left side of the speaker. This one isn't drilled out the back like the old model.

Here's another shot in the morning light. I had to trim the plastic off because I was blocking the clips hole.

Alright so I got the trim back on and this is my biggest regret. I mounted the amp to high and there was no real reason to mount it at an angle. The amp is pressing into the trim and caused a nice little stress crack in the plastic. Truly I don't care, as long as it doesn't get worse. I'm not ripping everything apart just to move the amp down.

Bonus pic, not sure why as a grown ass man I don't have a good work light still. I used my daughters vanity mirror that's USB powered hooked up to a battery pack. Also I did lay the Kilmat down all over the back area.

Overall, this thing bumps hard. It's nothing like my old 15" but it surprised the hell out of me for its size. I barely touched the gain, only moving it up a hair during the Kicker algorithm. You can barely feel anything around the 9ish range, but it bumps at 14+. Top down fully down today and around 60mph it was awesome at around 22 volume.

Side notes about all the work: I ran my own wires for the line in from the 6in kick panel speakers. I plan on getting the Kicker Key 200w amp installed soon but supposedly this is going to cause issues going to the 500w amp. Not really sure why and I'm really curious to test it out. Everyone says its because the speaker signal is amplified coming from the new amp. But the speaker signal is currently amplified from the head unit so not sure how its any different. Its probably only a 20W difference. Also I changed out the kick panel speakers with a set of Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6. These currently sound like shit with the stock head unit. I bought them because the money wasn't an issue and I didn't want to cheap out on a set and have to redo all that work. Replacing those speakers suck. So as of now they're staying in but I hope the Kicker Key 200.4 really adds some more power to them. They are 4lbs heavier then the stock speakers, so I know they have to be able to hit. Replaced the other 4 speakers with the Focal set that everyone recommends. I did 300hz blockers in the dash but I really regret not using 600hz. I may fix it one day but definitely not now.

Fantastic write-up.
I'm in the process of upgrading my 6 speaker to add the OEM sub box plus the Kicker 500.1 and Kicker sub. Couple questions for you...

1) What was the wire path for running power to the battery and where did you go through the firewall?

2) Where did you run the ground for the Kicker 500 amp?

3) Did you also perform the Forscan changes that remove the OEM equalizer setting and open up the rear pods?

4) What was your decision for using the kick panel speakers and not the pod speaker signal?

 

[jshapz]

So I would just order the stock B&O subwoofer enclosure and modify it. Its only $300ish and it fits great.

Good work by the OP.

There should be a few of these sub deletes delivered to members in the next few weeks with the cutoff for the sub delete being right in the middle of the 12/19 blend week.

I would imagine there will be nothing in that space so with my build's sub delete (12/22 blend), I have already looked at options as well. The Stealthbox release is supposed to be released this month but I imagine this will run north of $800. The OP did some nice work which is likely what I would have done if supplied with the factory sub or at least the enclosure.

Not sure I will source the box aftermarket. I may even put a hideaway in that panel area. I want full sound and don't need to entertain the neighbors.

Fantastic write-up.
I'm in the process of upgrading my 6 speaker to add the OEM sub box plus the Kicker 500.1 and Kicker sub. Couple questions for you...

1) What was the wire path for running power to the battery and where did you go through the firewall?

2) Where did you run the ground for the Kicker 500 amp?

3) Did you also perform the Forscan changes that remove the OEM equalizer setting and open up the rear pods?

4) What was your decision for using the kick panel speakers and not the pod speaker signal?

Ya I went through the firewall on the driver side. It was perfect and so easy to do. By far the easiest part. You can ground the kicker amp in the rear quarter panel, you can see the ground wire in the pictures to the right of the top bolt. I didn't do the Forscan changes yet because I am going to add the kicker 4 channel amp and I dont think you need to do the changes for it to work. I used the kick panel speakers because thats what other people did. It wasn't to hard and since you already have the trim off running the power wire. You do have to do both sides, and on the passenger side I just ran the bass knob under the trim coming back up to the front of the car.

 

[nwGTS]

Thanks for the quick reply and advice.

I'd encourage you to do the Forscan adjustments before doubling down on the Kicker 200.4. After adding new speakers to my base system and doing the Forscan changes, it's been night and day except for the lack of the low end which I'm hoping this solves.

You may find you don't need the 200.4 at all, but at least you can get a good taste of what it's like without it first and then dive in if you want to upgrade.

 

[Hossfire]

Ok guys I'm going to try and keep this post kinda short because I know there's a lot of info out there for upgrading speakers and everything already. This is just to show that the new subwoofer, which I know is going to get removed in some of the new builds, is different then the B&O model from '22. I'm pretty sure its the same subwoofer as the '22 Badlands though.


This is the stock photo I took before I removed it. The box and amp have changed. You can see the 5 pin connector hanging on the left side.

The hole is probably 6in, here is a picture with a recessed can drill bit.

This is the 8in kicker sub cutout. I used a jigsaw to cut the hole wider. I wasn't very careful and that jigsaw broke some plastic off making the hole bigger then I wanted. Still worked out ok.

I wanted to mount the amp to the box because the Kicker 8 gauge wiring kit doesn't have enough slack to reach the rear pillar that other people mounted it to. I ordered a $20 piece of plastic off Amazon and put some sound deadening stuff on there. Screwed the amp to it and screwed it to the box in the next picture.

Here's a picture of it mounted in, but didn't replace the trim because it was like 1am by now. I did take it to an empty parking lot and run the Kicker key algorithm and got it tuned in. I stuffed the box with polyfill and ran the speaker wires through the little U shaped channel on the left side of the speaker. This one isn't drilled out the back like the old model.

Here's another shot in the morning light. I had to trim the plastic off because I was blocking the clips hole.

Alright so I got the trim back on and this is my biggest regret. I mounted the amp to high and there was no real reason to mount it at an angle. The amp is pressing into the trim and caused a nice little stress crack in the plastic. Truly I don't care, as long as it doesn't get worse. I'm not ripping everything apart just to move the amp down.

Bonus pic, not sure why as a grown ass man I don't have a good work light still. I used my daughters vanity mirror that's USB powered hooked up to a battery pack. Also I did lay the Kilmat down all over the back area.

Overall, this thing bumps hard. It's nothing like my old 15" but it surprised the hell out of me for its size. I barely touched the gain, only moving it up a hair during the Kicker algorithm. You can barely feel anything around the 9ish range, but it bumps at 14+. Top down fully down today and around 60mph it was awesome at around 22 volume.

Side notes about all the work: I ran my own wires for the line in from the 6in kick panel speakers. I plan on getting the Kicker Key 200w amp installed soon but supposedly this is going to cause issues going to the 500w amp. Not really sure why and I'm really curious to test it out. Everyone says its because the speaker signal is amplified coming from the new amp. But the speaker signal is currently amplified from the head unit so not sure how its any different. Its probably only a 20W difference. Also I changed out the kick panel speakers with a set of Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6. These currently sound like shit with the stock head unit. I bought them because the money wasn't an issue and I didn't want to cheap out on a set and have to redo all that work. Replacing those speakers suck. So as of now they're staying in but I hope the Kicker Key 200.4 really adds some more power to them. They are 4lbs heavier then the stock speakers, so I know they have to be able to hit. Replaced the other 4 speakers with the Focal set that everyone recommends. I did 300hz blockers in the dash but I really regret not using 600hz. I may fix it one day but definitely not now.

That may be the sub that they use in the Bronco Sport B&O. Smaller size. Also, the woofer appears to be treated paper, which would last longer.

I think once you amp the kicks and dash, the bass blockers will be unnecessary. The Key DSP should sort out the crossover points.

As far as the wiring, you should only use the factory kick wires as amp inputs when installing the new amp. Run new speaker lines from the 4 channel amp to the kicks and the L/R dash. You will need to do this anyway because the factory kicks and L/R dash are wired in series (disconnect one of the dash speakers and see whether the kick speaker plays louder—I bet it does!) I would probably switch the full range input from the sub to the 4 channel and then pass the signal to the sub amp via RCAs. Then have the 4 channel turn on the sub amp.

 

[nwGTS]

Thanks for the quick reply and advice.

I'd encourage you to do the Forscan adjustments before doubling down on the Kicker 200.4. After adding new speakers to my base system and doing the Forscan changes, it's been night and day except for the lack of the low end which I'm hoping this solves.

You may find you don't need the 200.4 at all, but at least you can get a good taste of what it's like without it first and then dive in if you want to upgrade.

So I would just order the stock B&O subwoofer enclosure and modify it. Its only $300ish and it fits great.




Ya I went through the firewall on the driver side. It was perfect and so easy to do. By far the easiest part. You can ground the kicker amp in the rear quarter panel, you can see the ground wire in the pictures to the right of the top bolt. I didn't do the Forscan changes yet because I am going to add the kicker 4 channel amp and I dont think you need to do the changes for it to work. I used the kick panel speakers because thats what other people did. It wasn't to hard and since you already have the trim off running the power wire. You do have to do both sides, and on the passenger side I just ran the bass knob under the trim coming back up to the front of the car.

I'll add that if you've upgraded the kick panel speakers the OEM amp is not powerful enough to drive them. In that case, the Kicker 200.4 will open them up. So my advice may be moot in that case. Either way, these upgrades make a major difference so it's been worth the costs. $1k in parts sounds like a $4k system.

 

[Sgoob]

A little off topic but was there a watt rating on the factory amp you removed? Great write up, if mine ever gets delivered I'm planning something similar.

 

[jshapz]

A little off topic but was there a watt rating on the factory amp you removed? Great write up, if mine ever gets delivered I'm planning something similar.

I don’t see a W rating on the amp sorry.

 

[JP Fabrication]

Nice job

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