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I’m having a great time. This is great.
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2023 7 speaker subwoofer upgrade
- First Name
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Report back in at 3 am when you get finished lol! You've got a lot of work ahead of you. I split it into 2 days. I did 5 speakers and then the last speaker and sub the next day. I'm out of town so I'll hook up the 200.4 amp next week when I get home.
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- #20
Did you get the harness with speaker wire for the 500.1? And you running the power from the battery to the 200.4 ?KK 200.4
KK 500.1
Kicker CS all around
Kicker CompRT 8” in OEM sub box
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Yes. I have the harness specifically for the 500.1.
I ordered the direct-to-battery harness for the 200.4 but it wasn’t in the box. Currently working it out with PnP. I think it can be added after the fact easily. Hopefully it can.
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- #22
So I'm sure you have it all figured out, but just figured I'd throw out my 2cents. You can hook it all up without the adapter, but run your power and ground kit to your battery and through the firewall. Just leave the fuse out and get those cables under your steering wheel. The harness you have now will plug into the kick 200.4. Once your other cable comes in, you just unplug that side and it plugs into that harness which in turn plugs into the 200.4. It will have power and ground wires dangling that you will hook up to the ones already ran.
TLDR: Once that cable comes in all you need to do is get to the 200.4 and make the connection. Should be super ez
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Great advice.
The 200.4 is under the steering wheel with easy access for tuning and access to wiring. Running power and ground is so easy in this car. You could drive a Volkswagen through the OEM firewall grommet.
Question, what powers off the 200.4 switch if I’m going straight to the battery?
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Dont mean to derail, but the backs of your seats looked rubberized. Is this how the Bronco came?KK 200.4
KK 500.1
Kicker CS all around
Kicker CompRT 8” in OEM sub box
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I and thousands of other people wish they came this way but what Ford taketh away, the aftermarket provides:
https://a.co/d/eCQ74eG
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Mine came with vinyl washout interior.
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- #28
Ill edit this top post with this comment, but here's my final thoughts.
TLDR: Save some money and time by not worrying about the Key 200.4. Also I would leave the stock kick panel speakers alone as well. Don't get me wrong, now that everything is done its great but the key didn't boost the system much more then the stock unit. Really all the bass is still coming from the rear 8in kicker which sounds fantastic.
My biggest concerns were the speakers clipping with the new amp and the signal going to the back 500.1 amp. The speakers did clip and hit the limiter at around 20 before running the DSP set up. I also had to set the filter on the last 2 dip switches. My 200.4 settings from left to right are: Down up up up up up down up. The last 2 set the filter and really made the difference. I can turn the volume up to 30 with no issues. I also didn't adjust the gain at all and it wasn't really needed. Once you bump the gain a little bit it would hit the limiter. Lastly I ran the inputs to the 500.1 off the kick panel speaker wire. This caused no issues with the new 200.4 installed. In fact it actually cleaned up a few songs that had a weird freq, I listen to a lot of rap.
If you're still reading, save your time and money and install 4 new 4in speakers and the kicker 8in full size sub.
Amp - $280
RF kick panel speakers - $80 * 2
Wiring harness - $175
Power wiring kit for 200.4 - $40
This was the money wasted, close to $700
TLDR: Save some money and time by not worrying about the Key 200.4. Also I would leave the stock kick panel speakers alone as well. Don't get me wrong, now that everything is done its great but the key didn't boost the system much more then the stock unit. Really all the bass is still coming from the rear 8in kicker which sounds fantastic.
My biggest concerns were the speakers clipping with the new amp and the signal going to the back 500.1 amp. The speakers did clip and hit the limiter at around 20 before running the DSP set up. I also had to set the filter on the last 2 dip switches. My 200.4 settings from left to right are: Down up up up up up down up. The last 2 set the filter and really made the difference. I can turn the volume up to 30 with no issues. I also didn't adjust the gain at all and it wasn't really needed. Once you bump the gain a little bit it would hit the limiter. Lastly I ran the inputs to the 500.1 off the kick panel speaker wire. This caused no issues with the new 200.4 installed. In fact it actually cleaned up a few songs that had a weird freq, I listen to a lot of rap.
If you're still reading, save your time and money and install 4 new 4in speakers and the kicker 8in full size sub.
Amp - $280
RF kick panel speakers - $80 * 2
Wiring harness - $175
Power wiring kit for 200.4 - $40
This was the money wasted, close to $700
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everything works well. The kick panel speakers are a bit muddy but EQ helps. I’m having a terrible time getting the 500.1 to fit behind the side panel. You need to be millimeter perfect in the angle of you want to secure the plate to all four existing bolt holes AND screw the amp at all four corners to the plate. I’m on my third fabricated plate which still needs trimming. More to come once it’s all together.
I’ll be honest, you could probably just change the EQ with forscan, add the 500.1 and call it quits. The 200.4 is a little underpowered for the effort and cost of everything including harness and speakers at around $700 all in.
That would work for 90% of owners.
Edit: just saw your post above. Yes I have literally the same advice. The only difference is I have the 200.4 clipping 120hz on the dip switches and you have it at 90.
The remote knob for the 500.1 is a must too.
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