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2023 7-speaker with REAL sub wiring diagram?

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meffie

meffie

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Good Luck! Hope it works.

FYI - here are the signals you are getting front vs rear:
speaker channels.png
Well I guess I could swap the front to channel 2, and put the rear on channel 3.

Or if I jumper, I'll jumper from the front.

Still thinking about splicing into the sub input. Wonder what that signal looks like. I would love to have a paa3 to test, but I don't have that kind of money to blow just for signal testing, lol
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Good Luck! Hope it works.

FYI - here are the signals you are getting front vs rear:
speaker channels.png
You sir, are a poet, and a gentleman. I left all as is, and just moved the sub rca to channel 1 on the lc7i, and got the boom.

Now the question begs....

1: Do I just sum both switches, so I have full range across all 3 channels, but lose the ability to control signal on all 3 channels (fronts are components w/ crossovers anyway)

2: Do I leave input signal as is (chan 1 and 2) , don't sum so I have individual control over signal strength and just run signal wire from the existing sub channel in the rear.

3: Do I leave input signal as is (chan 1 and 2), and just jumper from channel 1 to channel 3, and just share signal strength from the lc7i with the front and rear.

Hrm, decisions decisions. Too bad you don't have the signal output of the sub channel on these 7 speakers 23's.
 
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DJ1

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You sir, are a poet, and a gentleman. I left all as is, and just moved the sub rca to channel 1 on the lc7i, and got the boom.

Now the question begs....

1: Do I just sum both switches, so I have full range across all 3 channels, but lose the ability to control signal on all 3 channels (fronts are components w/ crossovers anyway)

2: Do I leave input signal as is (chan 1 and 2) , don't sum so I have individual control over signal strength and just run signal wire from the existing sub channel in the rear.

3: Do I leave input signal as is (chan 1 and 2), and just jumper from channel 1 to channel 3, and just share signal strength from the lc7i with the front and rear.

Hrm, decisions decisions. Too bad you don't have the signal output of the sub channel on these 7 speakers 23's.
Your call as it is your car and setup. My unsolicited advice would be to sum inputs 1 & 2, set your levels for front/rear balance with the LC7 and use the remote ACR accessory as your sub level control. You will lose your front and rear fade from the head unit, but otherwise that seems the easiest way to get all the signals to the places you need them.

I would avoid option 2 since we have no idea what the Ford sub output is going to be. I would guess it is significantly attenuated to protect their bad factory sub. If you like to bring the sub into play a little earlier (higher frequency), the factory sub signal may not allow that.
 
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Your call as it is your car and setup. My unsolicited advice would be to sum inputs 1 & 2, set your levels for front/rear balance with the LC7 and use the remote ACR accessory as your sub level control. You will lose your front and rear face from the head unit, but otherwise that seems the easiest way to get all the signals to the places you need them.

I would avoid option 2 since we have no idea what the Ford sub output is going to be. I would guess it is significantly attenuated to protect their bad factory sub. If you like to bring the sub into play a little earlier (higher frequency), the factory sub signal may not allow that.

Well as a matter of fact, I ended up just summing them all, lol.

The better part of my brain that knows everything decided to go ahead and run a jumper off the ford sub +/- and I didn't get anything out of it. Just in case anyone is wondering, lol

So went back in, set the sum, and now everything works. :)
 
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gringoloco

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The better part of my brain that knows everything decided to go ahead and run a jumper off the ford sub +/- and I didn't get anything out of it. Just in case anyone is wondering, lol
Did you have a sub, or is yours a sub delete?
 

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Did you have a sub, or is yours a sub delete?
Yea I had an early 23 with a functional sub.

However even on the deletes the wiring is there.
 

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Yea I had an early 23 with a functional sub.

However even on the deletes the wiring is there.
Interesting. Wonder why you weren’t able to pull a signal from the +\-, maybe the head unit needs to “see” the DSP/amp is connected?
 

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I'm only stereo smart enough to know I'm not crazy about the stock setup, can't wait until you good folks get everything sorted and I can pick the solution I want to follow
thanks for the leg work
 
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Interesting. Wonder why you weren’t able to pull a signal from the +\-, maybe the head unit needs to “see” the DSP/amp is connected?
Certainly possible.Maybe that'spart of the amp en/clip line? Not sure.
 

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I'm only stereo smart enough to know I'm not crazy about the stock setup, can't wait until you good folks get everything sorted and I can pick the solution I want to follow
thanks for the leg work
Everything is pretty damn sorted already TBH.

Few ways you can do it. Just decide what your goals are, and how much you wanna spend, lol
 

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Everything is pretty damn sorted already TBH.

Few ways you can do it. Just decide what your goals are, and how much you wanna spend, lol
I just found this thread and will be installing a kicker key 500.1 and was hoping to use the factory delete signal wire for input. Did i understand you could not get signal to your LC7
 
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I just found this thread and will be installing a kicker key 500.1 and was hoping to use the factory delete signal wire for input. Did i understand you could not get signal to your LC7
No I got signal fine, my issue was trying to get the signal across all 6 channels on the lc7i. I got it figured out a while ago though. Ended up tapping the front kick panel in via 1-2 then just bridged all the way across to 5-6
 

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No I got signal fine, my issue was trying to get the signal across all 6 channels on the lc7i. I got it figured out a while ago though. Ended up tapping the front kick panel in via 1-2 then just bridged all the way across to 5-6
10-4. That’s good to know. I’m trying to use as much of the factory wiring as possible. For now just replacing the factory speakers and use forscan to flatten eq and make sub wires active. Maybe later do the key 200.4.
 

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Found it! Sub wiring diagram:
seven speaker sub wiring diagram.jpg


Photos of the wires in the grey head unit connector:
IMG_2762.JPG
IMG_2760.JPG
IMG_2765.JPG


Images of the connection to the DSP in the rear panel:

IMG_2853.JPG
IMG_2852.JPG
IMG_2753.JPG
IMG_2754.JPG
Good morning! I've been looking for some advice and this thread seems to have a TON of knowledge 😁 I have a 2023 Black diamond four-door Bronco and I am replacing the basic sub with a b&o version. I assumed this would be a plug and play thing... But definitely is not. I recognize one of the plugs in your picture in this post. The brown one with the white around the edge. That is what I currently have going into the basic setup. I will also note that the basic sub that I have doesn't do anything, which is quite confusing to me. 😬 I will attach 2 pictures of what is there for the basic setup, then 2 pictures of what I'm trying to plug into, which is the b&o amplifier... And there is also a green plug at the top of the sub box that I do not have any input for. I assume there is a wiring harness but I have been unable to locate that via Google searches. Any input you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

20230803_145136.jpg


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