74Weld Bronco Portals now available!

[Tor148]

I check my drivers side every other weekend along with the bolts, and it has no cracks. It is NOT the boxed type, but the early open type.

Ford parts specifically says single use. This is why I'm thinking the factory stretched them, or maybe the shop did during install?

I can't see the passenger side behind the fuel tank, so I will ask the shop when they replace the bolts to check for cracking.

I notice they become loose because I can hear the joint popping under flex. (Then found the loose bolt). I now hear the passenger side, so I'm assuming it is loose as well.

Icon uses FK rod ends on the forward mount (that is cracking) and rubber on the other end. I'm monitoring for cracks, but I don't push my bronco too hard.
Icon's links are also straight, not offset.

I was a little paranoid about the single use bolts especially the nylock. Ordered from @flip but in talking with him he said they just re lock tight every thing. And that is what I did blue and red loc tite as needed. I did replace a couple of my locks but when you pull the factory bolts you can see the lock tite on them. Hopefully I will be good!!!

Good luck and keep us informed!

Sponsored

 

[Merc4x4]

I was a little paranoid about the single use bolts especially the nylock. Ordered from @flip but in talking with him he said they just re lock tight every thing. And that is what I did blue and red loc tite as needed. I did replace a couple of my locks but when you pull the factory bolts you can see the lock tite on them. Hopefully I will be good!!!

Good luck and keep us informed!

Thanks! I'm going to discuss locktite with the shop. Having the bolt behind the gas tank come loose is super annoying, so I'm going to just replace them all for the rear links. I was going to locktite the bolts, but I don't have the means to drop the tank. Might as well send it to the shop.
Thanks for the flip insight!

I agree that this is a me problem and not widespread. I'm positive most do not replace out the bolts. It was ~$150 for the 8 nuts and bolts for just the rear links. Small price to pay when my gut feeling is the factory over torqued and stretched a couple of the them.
I have the factory manual from Helm for the '21. I will send along the appropriate sections to the shop as well.
It's not fun having to drive cautiously and always thinking about the bolts loosening and possibly cracking the mounts.

I put in an order for a Ranger Raptor with my local dealer. Having a second vehicle will alleviate the stress of needing a car when my only one is not 100%. I also get to see how the Fox 2.5 live valve feel compared to my Icon CDEV on a similar platform. I'm excited to see how they compare!
Of course, I don't know why I'm willingly subjecting myself to the ordeal of purchasing another Ford limited model...
I've never owned a Ford before the Bronco; I guess I'm now just a fanboy.

 

[BeerRunner]

That is self deposits... Actually the UTVs were kinda "built" and as we got up in the snow one of them was "stuck on the side of the road. The other two were getting him out. We went up another couple miles found a good spot to lett the dogs out and eat lunch than headed back down. UTVs were gone by then.

I tried hard to tread lightly... kept my foot out of the gas, no spinning tires except very slowly while sliding back and forth... Those deposts were happening at about 6 to 10 MPH.... driving along... no spinning, the tires were just grabbing snowball size clumps and throwing them. It was thick heavy clay and very very slick.

deposits

 

[87-Z28]

Thanks! I'm going to discuss locktite with the shop. Having the bolt behind the gas tank come loose is super annoying, so I'm going to just replace them all for the rear links. I was going to locktite the bolts, but I don't have the means to drop the tank. Might as well send it to the shop.
Thanks for the flip insight!

I agree that this is a me problem and not widespread. I'm positive most do not replace out the bolts. It was ~$150 for the 8 nuts and bolts for just the rear links. Small price to pay when my gut feeling is the factory over torqued and stretched a couple of the them.
I have the factory manual from Helm for the '21. I will send along the appropriate sections to the shop as well.
It's not fun having to drive cautiously and always thinking about the bolts loosening and possibly cracking the mounts.

I put in an order for a Ranger Raptor with my local dealer. Having a second vehicle will alleviate the stress of needing a car when my only one is not 100%. I also get to see how the Fox 2.5 live valve feel compared to my Icon CDEV on a similar platform. I'm excited to see how they compare!
Of course, I don't know why I'm willingly subjecting myself to the ordeal of purchasing another Ford limited model...
I've never owned a Ford before the Bronco; I guess I'm now just a fanboy.

I would buy all new hardware, then loctite and torque to spec. You shouldn’t have a problem after that. I reused all my hardware. No issues for >10k miles. Probably a good idea to be a little anal about torque specs with the suspension components.

 

[Merc4x4]

I would buy all new hardware, then loctite and torque to spec. You shouldn’t have a problem after that. I reused all my hardware. No issues for >10k miles. Probably a good idea to be a little anal about torque specs with the suspension components.

That is our plan. At the shop now.
Shop reached out to Icon. Shop has done other Broncos (and many other models). Nobody's seen this.
I'm still trying to determine which bolts are loosening up front. I only found the one a-arm bolt and I didn't think to get the tech to mark which bolts were loose at the first follow-up/re-torque appointment.

 

[Razorback]

Hey fellas. I've read back through and just wanted to confirm; slight rub and trim on 40s but 38s are clearing?

 

[BAUS67]

Hey fellas. I've read back through and just wanted to confirm; slight rub and trim on 40s but 38s are clearing?

I don't have portals but did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. That is the way I have understood it.

 

[Razorback]

I don't have portals but did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. That is the way I have understood it.

But are you a surgeon?

 

[BAUS67]

But are you a surgeon?

Yeppers, I can hack a crash bar mount like it's nobodies business.

 

[5GENIDN]

Hey fellas. I've read back through and just wanted to confirm; slight rub and trim on 40s but 38s are clearing?

That is where I am at... Yes on slight trim with 40's.

 

[5GENIDN]

Yeppers, I can hack a crash bar mount like it's nobodies business.

So far I am not touching the crash bars.... I have to trim the front capable bumper... but more invasive is the trim at the pinch weld.

 

[Bmadda]

Hey fellas. I've read back through and just wanted to confirm; slight rub and trim on 40s but 38s are clearing?

I haven't trimmed anything, but my body is lifted. Looks like I might just kiss a fender at extreme flex. Got a trip planned to SMORR at the end of march...will find out then! Will probably remove the mod bumper "wings" for offroad use too! (on 40s)

 

[userdude]

Just ordered this to go with my high clearance SFR bumper:

https://www.stinkyfab.com/collections/bronco-parts/products/crash-bar-delete-body-mounts

 

[Tor148]

Hey fellas. I've read back through and just wanted to confirm; slight rub and trim on 40s but 38s are clearing?

Who is using little ol 38's????

At full stuff and backing up I get rub.
This is about how much I trained

I think that is enough but it is not if I use sway bar disconnect. Gotta play with it to fine tune it.
Might just go to a 1 or 1.5 body and I think that would fix all kinds like @Bmadda did

 

[87-Z28]

At full stuff and backing up I get rub.
This is about how much I trained

I would say you are fully committed.

can’t wait to see the final product.

Sponsored