Advice on how to remove plastic screws to access brake lights?

[fv9]

I’m trying to install the curt plug and play trailer lights wiring to my black diamond. Only problem is I cannot, for the life of me, get the plastic screw out that hold the cover to the access area. They just turn and turn even while putting pressure on the back side. Anyone run into this and figure out a solid way to remove them or am I going to have to cut and replace? Thanks!

EDIT: I figured it out. Needed super light pressure.

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[BudgetBronco]

Yup light pressure is the key. Also, make sure you have the right Curt part number. There is one for halogen tail lights, and a different one for Broncos with LED tail lights

 

[fv9]

Yup light pressure is the key. Also, make sure you have the right Curt part number. There is one for halogen tail lights, and a different one for Broncos with LED tail lights

I ordered the one for halogen. Everything is now wired up and I don’t have a trailer so I guess I’ll find out next time I’m around a trailer!

 

[bniknar]

I ordered the one for halogen. Everything is now wired up and I don’t have a trailer so I guess I’ll find out next time I’m around a trailer!

Hey how did you run the wire to the battery? i.e. where did you run the wire, did you place the vehicle on a lift, etc? Any gotchas? I installed the hitch, I'd like to install the Curtis wiring harness myself but I don't want to mess up the wire run to the battery.

 

[fv9]

Hey how did you run the wire to the battery? i.e. where did you run the wire, did you place the vehicle on a lift, etc? Any gotchas? I installed the hitch, I'd like to install the Curtis wiring harness myself but I don't want to mess up the wire run to the battery.

I ran it from the battery around the fuse box and then down to the frame rail. Zip tied it every 18-24 inches to the loom that is attached to the outside of the rail. When I got to the end of the rail I passed it through a hole to the inside and then followed some bent hard lines until I got to the wiring kit.

 

[CheekyOldMan]

 

[swmetal]

Hey how did you run the wire to the battery? i.e. where did you run the wire, did you place the vehicle on a lift, etc? Any gotchas? I installed the hitch, I'd like to install the Curtis wiring harness myself but I don't want to mess up the wire run to the battery.

When I ran the power I did the same from the front, along the frame rail, but when I got to the back tire, I removed the fender flare and it was easy to run the wire inside the fender, above the wheel well, back to just in front of the bumper. Worked out well and wire is protected.

 

[Scott R Nelson]

If those plastic "screws" are the same things holding the inner finders on, just break them off. You'll have to replace them anyway.

When I installed my WeatherTech mudflaps I had to remove a few of those and they definitely wouldn't unscrew. I finally just sort of tore them out of there. I had to pound a few sheet metal tabs back into place after. I would use a sharp knife if I had to do that again.

Gratuitous photo of the front mud flap not showing any of the screws, just because:

 

[Ksjrb03]

Negative pressure. They will come out in a couple seconds. Same as the wheel well liners.

 

[Scott R Nelson]

Negative pressure. They will come out in a couple seconds. Same as the wheel well liners.

Can you please explain what "negative pressure" means?

It would have been nice to find a better way than what I had to do.

 

[Herbie]

I ordered the one for halogen. Everything is now wired up and I don’t have a trailer so I guess I’ll find out next time I’m around a trailer!

You can buy a trailer light tester on Amazon for $7.00 if you are interested in testing your wiring prowess.

 

[Herbie]

Can you please explain what "negative pressure" means?

It would have been nice to find a better way than what I had to do.

Not really "negative pressure" just don't apply any pressure, just turn left and then slightly pry out with flat head or pry tool.

 

[Scott R Nelson]

Not really "negative pressure" just don't apply any pressure, just turn left and then slightly pry out with flat head or pry tool.

That did not work for me. I tried it just like that before giving up and just ripping them out of there.

 

[Herbie]

That did not work for me. I tried it just like that before giving up and just ripping them out of there.

Bummer, sorry to hear. Good thing they are a dime a dozen to replace.

 

[Scott R Nelson]

Bummer, sorry to hear. Good thing they are a dime a dozen to replace.

Yeah. WeatherTech includes screws with clips to go behind them, so they're easy to install and remove. I doubt I will want to take the mud flaps back off, but it would be easy enough to do so.

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