Yup, I actually saw it in forscan last night, and it is set to 80%.
Hopefully you got it but if you continue to have a problem unfortunately I would put everything stock and see if it continues.Seems like Ford is intentionally Isolating bolts from ground, I checked the bolts I could get to on the radiator support, and all of them are high resistance to ground, including the ones that hold the hood latch on, and yet the support itself is 0 ohms to the battery negative everywhere I could get to it.
I looked a the places under the hood that you'd have to have a ground, and found that all of them have dedicated ground wires.
Some good examples;
The PCM Bracket;
The Ground strap at the top has 0 ohms, and the PCM case itself has 0 Ohms (Delivered through the PCM Connector itself, not the bracket). The Bolt to the right is on the airbox, And it is starngely 0 Ohms to ground.
The Cowl has two;
The Bolts on the radiator overflow to the right have high resistance.
I've been using the one on the driver's side to hook up all the grounds for stuff I add, But that was because it's right by all the Aux Wires so I just went there, I didn't realize it was going to be the only decent ground around there. All the other other exposed zinc bolts on the cowl have high resistance.
The Accessory ready bolts (Torx Bolts on the plastic near the mirrors) have 0 ohms.
Most of the stuff under the dash is the same, With dedicated grounds at posts, and sensors on the Brake Clutch and Accelerator all having their own grounds fed in (That's not that unusual), But all the brackets holding the pedals, and the bolts and nuts holding them in place having high resistance.
Moving around to other places, I found these places that WERE good ground paths; Door Strikers, The Windshield Header and the Grab Handle Bolts. Most all the trim screws I tested were High Resistance.
The ground I originally used when I put in the first Amp was under one of the D-Rings in the cargo floor, I checked those again today, and they are high resistance. The 8 Gauge wire I use now to ground the amp rack is on a dedicated ground to the body I actually Drilled, Connected with a lug and bolted, and then painted over. That one thankfully is 0 Ohms.
My conclusion from all this is that Ford isn't really intentionally isolating bolts, they just aren't doing anything to get ground where it's not needed to run their systems. This is both bad and good, It means you can't just run to any bolt that goes into the body for a ground (Something I've been doing for 40 years) But it also means the number of places we have to look when we suspect a ground problem is limited, which will make troubleshooting somewhat easier.
I checked everything I've added, and went over and tightened all the factory grounds I could find. The BMS seems to be operating properly right now.
We'll see how it does this week on my normal commute, and hopefully we can call it good by next Friday..
It was close to stock for two days, Thursday With the exception of the still not corrected fender ground, Friday I was stock, But I still gto a charging error Friday morning. Saturday and today I didn't get any errors, but I didn't make the long run to work yet either, That will be tomorrow. If I do get an error this week, I will return everything to stock, and see how it behaves, and I'll likely be taking it to a dealer at that point, because I'm pretty much down to a bad alternator at that point.
BTW, how is yours behaving the last few days, Any change?
Did a 2 hour trip Friday 1 hour highway then little over a hour return on back roads home.
again.
Interesting information, thanks...this explains why one of my amps grounded to the seat bolt sounds like shit compared to the other identical one with ground to battery wiredSeems like Ford is intentionally Isolating bolts from ground, I checked the bolts I could get to on the radiator support, and all of them are high resistance to ground, including the ones that hold the hood latch on, and yet the support itself is 0 ohms to the battery negative everywhere I could get to it.
I looked a the places under the hood that you'd have to have a ground, and found that all of them have dedicated ground wires.
Some good examples;
The PCM Bracket;
The Ground strap at the top has 0 ohms, and the PCM case itself has 0 Ohms (Delivered through the PCM Connector itself, not the bracket). The Bolt to the right is on the airbox, And it is starngely 0 Ohms to ground.
The Cowl has two;
The Bolts on the radiator overflow to the right have high resistance.
I've been using the one on the driver's side to hook up all the grounds for stuff I add, But that was because it's right by all the Aux Wires so I just went there, I didn't realize it was going to be the only decent ground around there. All the other other exposed zinc bolts on the cowl have high resistance.
The Accessory ready bolts (Torx Bolts on the plastic near the mirrors) have 0 ohms.
Most of the stuff under the dash is the same, With dedicated grounds at posts, and sensors on the Brake Clutch and Accelerator all having their own grounds fed in (That's not that unusual), But all the brackets holding the pedals, and the bolts and nuts holding them in place having high resistance.
Moving around to other places, I found these places that WERE good ground paths; Door Strikers, The Windshield Header and the Grab Handle Bolts. Most all the trim screws I tested were High Resistance.
The ground I originally used when I put in the first Amp was under one of the D-Rings in the cargo floor, I checked those again today, and they are high resistance. The 8 Gauge wire I use now to ground the amp rack is on a dedicated ground to the body I actually Drilled, Connected with a lug and bolted, and then painted over. That one thankfully is 0 Ohms.
My conclusion from all this is that Ford isn't really intentionally isolating bolts, they just aren't doing anything to get ground where it's not needed to run their systems. This is both bad and good, It means you can't just run to any bolt that goes into the body for a ground (Something I've been doing for 40 years) But it also means the number of places we have to look when we suspect a ground problem is limited, which will make troubleshooting somewhat easier.
I checked everything I've added, and went over and tightened all the factory grounds I could find. The BMS seems to be operating properly right now.
We'll see how it does this week on my normal commute, and hopefully we can call it good by next Friday..
Oh Man, hopefully continuous high voltage hasn't started frying other systems... On the other hand it'll probably get your dealer to dig a bit deeper if it has.Did a 2 hour trip Friday 1 hour highway then little over a hour return on back roads home.
On the highway voltage was 15.1 -15.4v
Parked for around a hour
Started on the way home on back roads and 14.8v....... hay cool just needed a long run ........nope. Something new happened 5 minutes from home the dash and touch screen went dark once(flashed). Voltage at 15.2 when parked.
Haven't done anything with it since Friday will check it in the morning.
Have appointment for dealer this week going to have battery check added...again so they will probably say it is ok.
Found 15.9 will/should set over change code so 15.4v it's getting there.
if it's any consolation, that's where Ford itself instructs you to ground its own Ford Performance/ Warn winch kit (and where Everglades models do the same from the factory).
It was a hard earned lesson! But it's a good one, and I honestly enjoyed doing it, I learned a lot about the Bronco's charging system
And I'm really glad it helped you, and potentially others too.
The Answer to that is, Probably, but not necessarily
