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ARB Twin On-Board Air Compressor Install ***Video***
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Plug in for the block heater for when ya want ta keep your new girl warm at night and the wife wont let you bring her inside!I have to ask... what is this???
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Awesome set up thanks for sharing !
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Anyone know the part number for the hitch 4/7-pin plate?
I am fabricating a bracket for remote air, moving the ARB air coupler to the rear of the vehicle using the 4/7-pin plate near the hitch, but I need a picture/measurements of the bracket or link to buy the bracket. I have the 4-pin bracket and have designed up a way to move the 4-pin over and add the hole for the air coupler.
I am fabricating a bracket for remote air, moving the ARB air coupler to the rear of the vehicle using the 4/7-pin plate near the hitch, but I need a picture/measurements of the bracket or link to buy the bracket. I have the 4-pin bracket and have designed up a way to move the 4-pin over and add the hole for the air coupler.
I’ve heard people complain about that part. I thought “how hard can they really be?” And while not hard… they are a bit of a PITA. After wrestling with them for about 5 minutes with a ratcheting wrench, I ended up using the cordless ratchet with a deep socket and it took care of them in seconds. With the right tool… it’s not bad. But even then, as you can see in this photo, it took some creativity to find room to fit the ratchet.I laughed out loud at the "2 hours later" pause during the carriage bolt section, because that was definitely the worst part of the whole installation.
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Yep, not impossible; just a PITA, especially if you have big hands (2XL), due to the limited room to maneuver.I’ve heard people complain about that part. I thought “how hard can they really be?” And while not hard… they are a bit of a PITA. After wrestling with them for about 5 minutes with a ratcheting wrench, I ended up using the cordless ratchet with a deep socket and it took care of them in seconds. With the right tool… it’s not bad. But even then, as you can see in this photo, it took some creativity to find room to fit the ratchet.
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A little late but I just installed it, runs from the same upfitter switch.
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I'm installing mine this weekend. Where did you install the pressure regulator? Any pics you would be willing to share?
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I’m headed home from a business trip, but I’ll send pics tomorrow, I will preface it’s pretty janky as it was hard to find a legit place at the time, but it works.
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Thank you, sir! I’ll take anything. All of my ideas are janky, so I need help!
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Janky as it is, It is pretty cool tho, plug the 4 way inflation tubes and deflate and inflate easy. Never new how convenient it could be coming from a small portable unit. Just make sure you have the right fittings to make it work. I never used ARB before and you will need a couple of 90s and tubing.Thank you, sir! I’ll take anything. All of my ideas are janky, so I need help!
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I got my ARB twin compressor w/ the KR Off-Road bracket from @4x4TruckLEDs.com installed yesterday. Probably the hardest mod I've done so far, and I would consider myself very handy. It turned out great though and am very happy with my setup. I purposely chose to go the hard route and not wire it up to my AUX switches, which is part of the reason I struggled more and took longer. My philosophy on not wanting it tied to an AUX switch was two-fold.......1.) I have to pop the hood anyway to use it, so why not just put the switch right next to the compressor. Plus if there's a problem, I want to be able to kill it right there quickly, and not have to hop into the Bronco to turn it off. 2.) Wanted to save my AUX switches for things that truly need it and don't have another switch option as I'm nearing close to using all 6 of my AUX switches.
For those interested, here are the few things I struggled with and some tips to get around them:
1.) A regular 3/8" ratchet extension isn't going to work with a larger torque wrench. This applies to when you're tightening down the strut bolt for the vertical mount support. I wasn't able to get down that far to the bolt and apply torque to my wrench without hitting parts of the engine. So I opted to stop and buy a 20" 3/8" extension and that worked like a charm.
2.) Since I opted for using the ARB switch that came with it instead of an AUX switch, I purchased the KR Off-Road switch/air coupler bracket from @4x4TruckLEDs.com to keep things neat & orderly (it can be seen in the left of my photo). The bracket itself is great and not the issue, but installing it was so tough. You basically have to sandwich this bracket, the compressor bracket, and the CPU module all together and they mount with the same screws. So you're trying to hold up 3 brackets essentially at the same time to get the screws in. Then it's very tight working conditions to tighten the bolts down as the switch/air coupler bracket is now blocking access. With some trial & error you can get it down with random combinations and extensions of your socket set. Also, for the air coupler, I was only able to hand-tighten the large black nut that goes on the underside of it to hold it down. You'll never get a wrench in there. Time will tell if it vibrates itself loose, then I'll deal with it then for what to do. The one review on the website said the guy had to bend the switch/air coupler bracket up to tighting things, then bend it back down. I chose not to do that.
3.) If you want to adjust the rotating port at the top of the compressor where the air comes out, just stick a wrench in the top and loosen/adjust it that way. The ARB instructions state to take the cover off to adjust it, which was a bear to get back on. I later watched a video and saw you can adjust it without removing the cover, so go that route.
4.) Again, because I chose to use the ARB switch, my wires weren't long enough. The switch spade wire connectors and the red/yellow wire you then need to tie to the fuse box with an add a fuse weren't long enough since they are on opposite sides of the engine. So I had to splice in another wire I had lying around to get the distance from the swtich (red/yellow wire) over to the fuse box. It worked fine, but something I wasn't prepared for. All of the other cables are plenty long enough, but the one I needed wasn't. If you chose to put the switch on the fuse box/battery side you would be fine, but that location just doesn't make sense to me.
5.) When using the add a fuse in the engine bay fuse box for the ARB switch (as mentioned above in item #4), the add a fuse is a bit tall and there is no exit port for the wire, so the fuse box cover is a bear to get back on. I got mine back on, but there is a slight hump where the add a fuse is sticking up, and the wire coming out of the fuse box is bent to a 90 degree which is more than my liking. You could easily dremel out a notch for the wire to come out, but then you have an entryway for dust into your fuse box.
All-in-all everything worked out fine, and it wouldn't be a project without challenges. I somehow spent a full day on this without the wife yelling at me, so that was a success in itself.
Let me know of any questions.
P.S. I'm double posting this in two threads so people don't miss it who may need this info.
For those interested, here are the few things I struggled with and some tips to get around them:
1.) A regular 3/8" ratchet extension isn't going to work with a larger torque wrench. This applies to when you're tightening down the strut bolt for the vertical mount support. I wasn't able to get down that far to the bolt and apply torque to my wrench without hitting parts of the engine. So I opted to stop and buy a 20" 3/8" extension and that worked like a charm.
2.) Since I opted for using the ARB switch that came with it instead of an AUX switch, I purchased the KR Off-Road switch/air coupler bracket from @4x4TruckLEDs.com to keep things neat & orderly (it can be seen in the left of my photo). The bracket itself is great and not the issue, but installing it was so tough. You basically have to sandwich this bracket, the compressor bracket, and the CPU module all together and they mount with the same screws. So you're trying to hold up 3 brackets essentially at the same time to get the screws in. Then it's very tight working conditions to tighten the bolts down as the switch/air coupler bracket is now blocking access. With some trial & error you can get it down with random combinations and extensions of your socket set. Also, for the air coupler, I was only able to hand-tighten the large black nut that goes on the underside of it to hold it down. You'll never get a wrench in there. Time will tell if it vibrates itself loose, then I'll deal with it then for what to do. The one review on the website said the guy had to bend the switch/air coupler bracket up to tighting things, then bend it back down. I chose not to do that.
3.) If you want to adjust the rotating port at the top of the compressor where the air comes out, just stick a wrench in the top and loosen/adjust it that way. The ARB instructions state to take the cover off to adjust it, which was a bear to get back on. I later watched a video and saw you can adjust it without removing the cover, so go that route.
4.) Again, because I chose to use the ARB switch, my wires weren't long enough. The switch spade wire connectors and the red/yellow wire you then need to tie to the fuse box with an add a fuse weren't long enough since they are on opposite sides of the engine. So I had to splice in another wire I had lying around to get the distance from the swtich (red/yellow wire) over to the fuse box. It worked fine, but something I wasn't prepared for. All of the other cables are plenty long enough, but the one I needed wasn't. If you chose to put the switch on the fuse box/battery side you would be fine, but that location just doesn't make sense to me.
5.) When using the add a fuse in the engine bay fuse box for the ARB switch (as mentioned above in item #4), the add a fuse is a bit tall and there is no exit port for the wire, so the fuse box cover is a bear to get back on. I got mine back on, but there is a slight hump where the add a fuse is sticking up, and the wire coming out of the fuse box is bent to a 90 degree which is more than my liking. You could easily dremel out a notch for the wire to come out, but then you have an entryway for dust into your fuse box.
All-in-all everything worked out fine, and it wouldn't be a project without challenges. I somehow spent a full day on this without the wife yelling at me, so that was a success in itself.
Let me know of any questions.
P.S. I'm double posting this in two threads so people don't miss it who may need this info.
Can you outline how you have the coupler mounted, maybe a couple more pics? Pretty please.you don’t have to pop the hood. I ran mine to the front bumper.
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