BadSquatch Perseverance Build with 3” Lift and 37s

[shawn6107]

Added IAG Hood Struts last week (no picture). They were a pretty simple install except where you have to remove a wire that’s mounted in the way with a plastic pushpin that I couldn’t remove without breaking it. Just zipped tied it back and it’s good as new.

Today I installed JCR Shock Mount Skids. I’ve hung up on those a few times but truthfully I hang up on the Stabilizer bar or Sta Bar mount even more judging by the scratches. Not sure what the solution for that will be just yet.

The 375 lb ft torque load on those shock mounts is no joke when trying to remove and reinstall from underneath lying on the floor.

Got some more goodies to install after a couple more shipments arrive next week.

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[shawn6107]

It’s been a while since I posted anything here (life got busy). I did end up having to shim my bumper down a quarter of an inch for the RTR tailgate limiter to keep from rubbing into the top of the tailgate after I put a few miles on.

The bigger deal for me is I did this:

I installed the Rough Country High Winch Mount on my Capable Steel bumper. I don’t know if anyone else has done this yet but it fits like a glove.
I also installed the JCR Camera Relocation Kit. Everything works perfect. The camera, 360 view, ACC, Parking sensors, all flawless.

Self recovery is essential since I’m wheeling alone most of the time. Already been in some scary situations that recovery boards weren’t going to get me out of. This is the piece of mind that I needed. I went ahead and bought the Rough Country 12000S Winch. My next project will be to relocate the control box under the hood and install a Bluetooth controller. Maybe next week?

 

[shawn6107]

Relocated my winch control box under the hood and added an Agency 6 Winch Shackle.

I didn’t like my BRONCO letters being covered up on the grill. Next step will be a wireless winch controller.

 

[shawn6107]

Added a little shield over my relocated front camera.

Fabricating a shield for my relocated camera


I made a video of fabbing it up in case anyone wants to replicate it or improve on it.

 

[shawn6107]

I also added a wireless winch remote and tinted my outside pod lights amber.

 

[WakeSS]

Great build!
I've been trying to find out if that winch plate will fit the capable bumper. Thanks!

Do you think after moving the winch control box you would have had to move the camera?

 

[shawn6107]

Great build!
I've been trying to find out if that winch plate will fit the capable bumper. Thanks!

Do you think after moving the winch control box you would have had to move the camera?

You might not have had to but you definitely would have had some of the view blocked. For me, that would have been the most important part of the view since I use that camera a lot for tire placement or knowing how close I am to an obstacle.

 

[Santos]

Glad I found this. Great info for a winch solution to a capable bumper.
Thanks!

 

[Valhalla]

The fronts currently rub at full lock on the thumb screws so they’re off until I have a chance to fix it. There’s another thread that talks about this a little and how to fix it. There is a big plastic block behind the fender liner at the back of the front fenders (you can feel it if you try). Another member pulled that out, then pushed the bracket back and everything cleared just fine. I want to see what that block does and then decide whether to trim it or pull it out to push the bracket back. I just haven’t had any time yet.

Finally 3 inch not enough to wheel thank you guys...so 3" lift on a badL sasquatch and 3 inch body lift plus -21 offset for 38" tire!

 

[shawn6107]

Finally 3 inch not enough to wheel thank you guys...so 3" lift on a badL sasquatch and 3 inch body lift plus -21 offset for 38" tire!

Actually, you quit reading a little early. Once you pull the plastic spacer blocks out from behind the front liners there’s no rub at all. I’ve been wheeling it for almost a year now without ever rubbing on this setup.

 

[shawn6107]

I forgot to catch this thread up on some of the latest. In the last few weeks I’ve added the Wsays Hi Lift mount

I’ve done a hidden install of a Midland MXT275 with the Midland Ghost Antenna. I mounted the radio under the center console and added a Cat 5 connecter above the phone tray.

I’ve installed Hooke Road Overhead Molle Panels.

I also installed the Dirty Dog 4x4 Headliner over the top of my Gearshade and it almost completely stopped all wind noise. Now all I can hear is my engine and tire hum. Night and day difference. 100% worth it for driving on the highway. (no pics)

I installed the Broncbuster Stage 3 Aluminum Billet Rack Housing but surprisingly there was almost zero shavings in the housing. Actually there was more plastic shavings than aluminum. Definitely didn’t have any problems with rack wear yet but it’s a good preventative measure so I no longer have to worry about it.

I also installed the Hooke Road Rear Diff Skid after getting tired of hanging my diff on boulders. The last time I had to winch out when hanging between two ledges at a 30 degree angle. Not fun. This skid seems stout as hell and I don’t think I’ll be getting it hung up any more if I can get any traction at all with my fronts. Maybe I’ll get some pics of this later.

Next project will be replacing my rock sliders. I put a big dent in my Go Rhinos when I came down hard on a rock a few weeks ago. These were always just a cheap stop gap but they did well for a while. I have the LOD Signature Series frame mounted sliders on order.

 

[shawn6107]

Today I took off my GoRhino body mounted sliders after they took enough of a beating I was worried they wouldn’t hold up.

And installed a long term solution. LOD Signature Frame Mounted Sliders.

The install was a Son of a Gun. It really sucked. Had to drill holes in the frame, two of them all the way through. The sliders weigh close to 100 lbs each. No fun but I can give you some tips if anyone else is installing these. I was able to use jack stands to hold it up at each end under the square tubing. Make sure you have a corded drill and a bench grinder to sharpen the bits. Otherwise you’ll go through roughly 8-10 battery charges. You’ll need an extendable magnet to get some of the nuts on between the frame and gas tank. You can lose some of the flag nuts inside the frame if you let go of them. If that happens make sure there are no kids around. You’re going to swear a lot.
These things are super heavy duty and I doubt I’ll ever have to change these out nor will I want to. I was very pleased with the quality. Even the packaging was incredible. Here’s a photo:

They filled the box with spray foam which made a mess but there was zero chance of these getting damaged in shipping.

 

[shawn6107]

Finally switched to the HD Mod Bumper I bought last year. Had to buy new outside sensors. Also added the RC Triple Fog Light Kit (floods) to the front and hooked them up using the factory fog switch as the trigger. I also covered the lenses with an Amber (orange) laminate that matches the pinstripes. Then I added the IAG Marker lights for High End Grills. The light output on the fogs is fantastic and it works with the auto brights just like factory. Also added Ambull 42k lb Bow Shackles in Orange.

 

[shawn6107]

Added 1.5” KPS Spacers today to get the tires further out past the fenders and hopefully have to take the flares off less often. Should also give me just a little more downward reach when articulating and the 3” wider wheel base should be slightly more stable when off camber.
Before

After

I also installed some marine mat on top of my Cargo lid after I scratched the paint up last weekend carrying around a wagon and chairs on top of it. Should keep things from sliding around and be quieter.

I had to take my RokBlokz off since the new scrub radius won’t allow them after the spacer install. They’re for sale if anyone wants them for $300. XL Long Quick Release

 

[shawn6107]

Today I finally fixed the subwoofer rattle that’s been driving me nuts for a year. I took it in to my dealer about a month ago to see if they could fix it and they basically just shrugged and said they couldn’t do anything about it. A couple days later I found out that Ford had published a service bulletin on this very issue but my dealer apparently didn’t look it up. However the Service Bulletin just called for replacing a couple of fasteners which, according to other forum members, only fixes about 25% of it.

Today I took out my cargo enclosure (added another 1-1.5 hours to total time), took out the floor, the passenger side panel, and the sub enclosure. I wrapped all the flat spots and the spots that come in contact with anything else on the sub enclosure with Kil-mat. I also layered Kil-mat onto any flat surfaces on the sheet metal and anywhere that might come into contact with the sub enclosure or the plastic panel on that side.

In addition, I filled the sub enclosure with poly fill. When I put it all back together, the Sub rattle was GONE! Praise Jesus!

I ended up killing over half a day on the project but this was my first time to take that part of the Bronco apart and my first time to work with Kil-mat. Time well spent to get rid of all that vibration and rattling and improve the sound of the sub.

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