I just installed mine too...and my experience was very similar. For context, my spare is a Method 705 with a 35 mm positive offset...5 mm more than the Sasquatch wheel (and I am using the stock Sasquatch tire). With my 35mm offset, I needed to space my wheel nearly 20 mm off the carrier...and subtracting 5 mm to compare it to a Sasquatch setup (for anyone who hopes to use the BAMF bracket with a stock Sasquatch wheel and tire), you will need to space your wheel about 15 mm (over a half inch, not a quarter inch) if you don't want your sidewall resting/being forced against the edge of the bracket. Alternatively, you can grind the bracket down on the top and bottom edges, but that will compromise the coating BAMF uses (it is like a powdercoat but better because it is able to be "healed" using heat).Mounting the tailgate reinforcement is a little more than simple bolt on.
The square shape with the several holes (see pic below) interferes with the alignment of the spare tire mount. The top angled areas shown by the arrows are a little large so I ground off the corresponding area on the Bronco factory spare tire mount. That part is plastic covered aluminium so easy to remove the problem area with a carbide burr and air grinder. You could grind the tailgate piece but it is steel.
Depending on tire size and rim set back you may need a spacer to mount the spare tire so it won't hit the reinforcement bracket. The factory spare lug nuts need to be lengthened by that same amount or 1/16 inch or so more. Broncorik is right about the bottom lug being somewhat shorter. I am in the process of drilling out my spare lugs and going to tac weld longer bolts in place. Not hard just more than I enjoy in this 100 degree temps.
FYI:
My tires are Sasquatch size but Mickey Thompson with factory rims. The Mickey's have a more aggressive sidewall that contributes touching the tailgate reinforcement. I need a spacer that is 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. Factory tires may get by with 1/4 inch spacer....but you will need a spacer with Sasquatch and factory rims or rims of the same set back.
As Happy mentioned, the BAMF bracket does intefere with the OEM spare carrier...and you would need to either Dremel the carrier or grind the welds on the upper corners of the BAMF bracket in the areas Happy pointed out (I used a file on mine and was able to remove enough material to make the carrier fit over it).
Additionally, the diameter of the holes for the bolts that thread into the hinge nut plates are significantly larger than the diameter of the M8 bolts that go through them (unlike the RC plate which has holes that are very close in diameter to the bolts). The BAMF bracket is much more substantial in terms of strength, and flex reduction, but having larger holes means in order for the weight that is transferred to the hinges not to shift your tailgate alignment everything is dependent on the clamping force of the 4 M8 stainless bolts that are provided. With closer tolerances, like the RC plate, even if one or more of the bolts was slightly loose, the bracket wouldn't be able to shift...but with the BAMF bracket, because the holes are so large (and slotted), the bolts will need to be tight to keeps things from moving. Unfortunately, the stainless M8 bolts (and the thin smooth 5/16 washers) don't lend themself to a lot of torque potential. Additionally, the bracket is intended to sit directly on the hinges, which are angled slightly differently than the bracket, so the actual contact area is not ideal. I ended up using the conical spacers from the RC bracket (which match the conical/convex holes in the hinges) which allowed even contact between the four through-bolt areas, the conical spacers, and the hinges.
The conical spacers are somewhat limited for strength because they are composite material and not steel, so my goal is to find steel replacements for them. Additionally, I plan to swap out the stainless M8 bolts for black oxide grade 10.9 hex head bolts and thick M8 black oxide washers...that way I can at least get an accurate torque reading. It might seem like overkill, but every time we open our tailgates with a big spare and a table or whatever else is hanging off the gate (including the 26 pound bracket designed to allow us to hang stuff off the gate) results in a lot of leverage due to the distance from the four M8 bolts to the source of the weight...and with the big holes/slots, the only thing keeping our gates from shifting out of alignment is the clamping strength of the supplied bolts (which translates into tensile strength and not so much shear strength because of the large tolerances)...and stainless is not nearly as strong as as grade 10.9 bolts (like our OEM hinge bolts).
As for the bolts that hold the spare carrier on, the supplied washers are too large in diameter to fit in the depressions on the carrier...so if you use them and tighten them some of the clamping force will be on the outmost edges and not evenly distributed...again, probably overkill, but I bought grade 10.9 bolts and thick washers that matched the factory flange bolt diameter used to attach the carrier (from Belmetric...my local hardware store didn't have them). Hopefully with the stronger hinge bolts, conical spacers, thicker washers, flange bolts, and proper diameter washers for the carrier my BAMF bracket will perform well and for a long time.
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