Base Outer Banks 2021 Bronco Speakers Upgrade Tutorial -- With Stereo Wiring Diagram

[timhood]

Great Video. Any thoughts on putting Marine speakers in First thought I had seeing your top down in the video was getting rained on.

If you want to go marine grade to be on the safe side, the Polk Audio DB402 is an excellent speaker, particularly at the price (about $80/pair). You get 91 db sensitivity, 45 watts RMS power handling and a two-way speaker vs. the one-way that is the factory speaker in the base stereo system. I installed these in our boat and was happy with their power and clarity at higher volume, which is needed in a boat, particularly to overcome the noise of the engine. Even if you aren't particular about marine grade, this are a great choice for the price.

Another great option is the Rockford Fosgate Punch P142 for a little more money ($120/pair). They can handle a little more power (65 watts RMS) and have an oversized cone for a little more bass reach, which may help fill the midrange and compensate for the extra high range you're getting by going with a two-way over the factory one-way speaker.

Of course, if someone is going to replace the head unit and add amps, these speakers may not be up to the task, but I'll assume that person knows what they are doing, what they want and how much they have to spend.

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[timhood]

Someone else said they were 4ohm but would it be okay to change the dash ones out with a 3ohms

It's fine. The 3 ohm speakers are a common way to get more punch out of cheap factory systems that come with under-sized wiring. That said, I think the two speakers I recommended in the previous post are probably better options at the price range, and they are both 4 ohm.

 

[Designkid]

Awesome write up and video you guys! Just pulled the trigger on a full kicker cs series replacements. My Badlands should here soon so I'm chomping at the bit to upgrade stuff haha. Didn't feel like going super pricey since I'm not a huge audiophile and just want something "nice". Interested in seeing your update when everything is done and how it is with top up/down driving.

 

[MotownSpartan]

Thank You very much! Got a Badlands mid-package on order so this area of sound reinforcement will be high in priority. Great video content on YouTube.

 

[Altitude]

Now we just someone to get behind the dash and figure out the wiring system to install an amp that allows for high level inputs.

Here's my initial thoughts on an install:

JL Audio MX500/4 Compact marine/powersports 4-channel amplifier — 70 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

JL Audio MX500/1 Compact marine/powersports mono amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield

JL Audio C2-400X Evolution™ C2 Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

JL Audio C2-650X Evolution™ C2 Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

JL Audio M6-10W-S-GwGw-4 (Gloss White Sport Grille) M6 Series 10" marine subwoofer — optimized for sealed or ported enclosures at Crutchfield

I reckon the amps are small enough to be mounted under the dash somewhere, and should give sufficient SQL and SPL for decent quality and loud enough when cruising with the top and doors off. Not sure on the sub., but I'm guessing that JL will produce a stealthbox at some point for the Bronco.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Taking the doors off to work on wiring is a game changer I’m looking forward to.

 

[bdub2you]

I think I found it. (Molex page actually have an interactive model of it, so you can spin it around to check indexing groove location, etc)

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0310671041

there are a number of variants. The one we need is polarization B. The xmas tree variants simply have a slot on the side for attaching to something else. don't think it's needed in this application.

And here's it is on Mouser.com
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/31067-1041?qs=/ha2pyFaduhxdZOTGmaJU9k6C3bCaTton18hTyYKq9nqgZ0B4E/AqA==

That's exactly it. I don't think I've ever seen that crimp housing on a car audio harness before.

Until Metra comes out with a harness for this, I think I'm just going to cut the male adapters out of the factory ford speakers and then solder on to them. I'll replace that with the Metra harness when available. I never want to cut a factory wiring harness connectors unless I absolutely have to, and in this case I think a rotary tool to the factory speaker plastic will get me my male adapter for now.

 

[peta8368]

That's exactly it. I don't think I've ever seen that crimp housing on a car audio harness before.

Until Metra comes out with a harness for this, I think I'm just going to cut the male adapters out of the factory ford speakers and then solder on to them. I'll replace that with the Metra harness when available. I never want to cut a factory wiring harness connectors unless I absolutely have to, and in this case I think a rotary tool to the factory speaker plastic will get me my male adapter for now.

I thought about that, but I am reluctant to destroy the factory speaker. That connector appears to be molded onto the factory speaker basket. To remove and reuse it means destroying the factory one. Once I upgrade the speakers, I probably would never go back to factory speakers anyways, so it's not really a big deal. But I'm a pack rat, and I try to save and keep everything intact. For someone who isn't a stickler about that, that is indeed a viable option.

Peter

 

[bdub2you]

I thought about that, but I am reluctant to destroy the factory speaker. That connector appears to be molded onto the factory speaker basket. To remove and reuse it means destroying the factory one. Once I upgrade the speakers, I probably would never go back to factory speakers anyways, so it's not really a big deal. But I'm a pack rat, and I try to save and keep everything intact. For someone who isn't a stickler about that, that is indeed a viable option.

Peter

Yeah, the second the factory speakers are out of the vehicle they'd be in the trash for me so destroying the factory ones means nothing to me versus cutting a factory harness in the vehicle I'm actually going to be using.

 

[BEM-S4]

Yeah, the second the factory speakers are out of the vehicle they'd be in the trash for me so destroying the factory ones means nothing to me versus cutting a factory harness in the vehicle I'm actually going to be using.

I always keep stock stuff packed up in storage, who the hell knows if you ever have an issue someday always nice to go back to factory if there's ever a warranty repair.

 

[FATHORSE]

Anyone find the perfect 4" speakers? OP is a fan of JBL, which I can agree with. Had a subwoofer in my living room that nearly tore my first house down to the foundation. ! I am going to start my wish list and sound sampling. I will let everyone know if i find any good deals, or not so good deals with exceptional sound. Would appreciate the same.

 

[FATHORSE]

Which one of these would you guys say is better for the dash speakers?

https://www.jbl.com/car-speakers/STAGE3+427.html?dwvar_STAGE3 427_color=Black-USA-Current&cgid=car-speakers#start=1
or
https://www.jbl.com/car-speakers/CL...or=Black-AM-Current&cgid=car-speakers#start=1

Im suprised that they actually have the 2021 Bronco listed on their fitment list.
It says neither will fit. But what do they know. lol

 

[schlava]

Hard part about this all is waiting for the aftermarket to catch up! I read the B/O system has a sub that is hidden in the storage area. I'd love to just buy one of those vehicle specific sub packages but it will probably be fore ever. I'll have to look at my bronco when I get home and see how much room is in that spot .

 

[Dubsilk]

Of course, if someone is going to replace the head unit and add amps, these speakers may not be up to the task, but I'll assume that person knows what they are doing, what they want and how much they have to spend.

how bad is the head unit? I was thinking of changing the speakers and adding an amp.

 

[PapaWE]

I don't think anyone would want to be responsible for you smoking your factory system, but a 3ohm speaker should be ok. I ordered some Infinity 4" and they are 3ohm. The resistance is "nominal" so depending on the signal going through the speaker, it will vary anyway. What I can't tell is if the front speakers are wired in series or parallel. That would make a difference. If you changed to 2 (dash and kick panel), 3 ohm speakers per side, wired in parallel, might present to little resistance (1.5 ohm nominal) and the factory system could experience some trouble with shutting down, over heating or even the outputs being damaged. Maybe when the OP takes things apart, he can check the resistance at the kick panel speaker to make sure?

This is what I am wondering also with the kick panel plug and wiring. Do they simply pass through to the dash or are they parallel to the kicks. That will make a huge difference in choosing the correct ohms and also if you could/should use different ohms between dash and kick

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