Bilstein 6112 installation Comparison to SAS and ARB OME springs

[nottinbe]

4) All of the front end hardware is listed as one time use only. If you are anal like me, order it ahead of time. This includes the axle nut, sway bar end link nuts, Ball joint nuts and a arm hardware. It's not that expensive.

Do you happen to have part numbers for all of these?

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[broncosor]

Well it took me forever to get this done.
Pictures and driving impressions when it stops snowing and is light out.

just wanted to put out a few lessons learned-

1) Using a pro style Branick 7600 spring compressor is almost a necessity. Safer, faster, easier. I am fortunate that there is a DIY garage close to my house where you rent lift time. https://stewsgarage.com/ And here is the spring compressor https://www.branick.com/product/7600-strut-spring-compressor/ I wish I had one at home.

2) Even with the Branick, getting proper torque on the shock rod required buying a pass through socket set. They make specialized tools, but the Gearwrench set is much more useful on other projects https://www.gearwrench.com/products...s-thrutm-6-point-standard-saemetric-mechanics

3) Remove the sway bar and drop the lower A arms. So so so much faster than disconnecting the tie rod, loosening the upper bal joint and loosening the axle from the bearing. Just don't think twice about it.

4) All of the front end hardware is listed as one time use only. If you are anal like me, order it ahead of time. This includes the axle nut, sway bar end link nuts, Ball joint nuts and a arm hardware. It's not that expensive.

5)Getting the front most forward lower shock bolt in required feeding it up from the bottom. There is not enough clearance between the shock body and the axle shaft. I only reversed the most forward ones, I put the A arm bolts in the way they came front the factory.

6) Mark your concentric A arm hardware. I did need an alignment when I was done and the steering wheel was off slightly after install.

7) I paint marked all my hardware and will Re torque everything in a week.

8) I needed my Milwaukee hi torque cordless to get lower a arm and rear shock bolts out. I bought a new torque wrench to put that hardware back together.

I went on the 4th ring up front and the 3rd in the rear due to my heavy winch etc. I think the Bronco sits level now. I gained about 1.5" from where I was on stock suspension with all my added weight.

Sorry about no pictures, but I promise they are coming.

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[chtucker]

It's been really rainy here, so this is the grocery glamour shot.

I lost all the nose diving and it corners better. I gained about 1.75 on the front with the sag and about 1" over stock. Rear gained about .75" I am surprised that it's not equal side to side, but then again I checked my stock badlands and it's the same.

There will be those that complain about the digressive nature of the Bilsteins. For me it fits. 90% on road, 10% slow off road. No big whoops, I am sure they will do fine.

I guess I am going assume that it is a matched package. I don't think the 6100s with SAS springs are. I don't think the valving is different between the 6100s and the 6112s.

I didn't want to spend the money on Kings and I knew that I would need to change out the springs on the Kings. Not something I wanted to mess with.

Not ready for Baja, but much less floppy on the street.

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