Bronco How-To: Lift Kit Options

[lakesinai]

Great looking Broncos!

I posted info on the Eibach Coilover kit we sell with similar responses from customers, everyone loves the ride quality. I also have them on my shop bronco as well and I think they ride just as smooth or better than the factory SAS.
With all that said, I am running 37's with our billet UCA upgrade and will say this keeps the geometry close to factory specs. I even posted my alignment numbers on the thread below, since some people had questions about the lift with caster/camber adjustment.

Thread 1:
Stage 1 Eibach kits w/ Billet UCA’s in stock and ready to ship! NEW Pricing $
Thread 2:
New website w/ competitive pricing on our Billet Parts and Stage 1-3 Suspension Lift w/ FOX Shocks

Thanks for posting. A couple of questions since you know the products:
1. Which of these coilover lift shocks will make my highway ride as smooth or smoother than it already in with the stock non-SAS OBX? I want a small lift, but not at the expense of a harsher highway ride.

2. Which of these are adjustable at install for height? Right now, I have Badlands 17x8 takeoffs to install, and I only need about an inch of lift with 285/70R17 tires. I don't really want (AFAIK) 2 OR 2.5 inches of lift.

3. But later, if I decide to upgrade to 35" tires, if the shock is adjustable, I can add new UCA's, crank up the height, and I'm set.

Your thoughts?

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[BachBuiltOffRoad]

Thanks for posting. A couple of questions since you know the products:
1. Which of these coilover lift shocks will make my highway ride as smooth or smoother than it already in with the stock non-SAS OBX? I want a small lift, but not at the expense of a harsher highway ride.

2. Which of these are adjustable at install for height? Right now, I have Badlands 17x8 takeoffs to install, and I only need about an inch of lift with 285/70R17 tires. I don't really want (AFAIK) 2 OR 2.5 inches of lift.

3. But later, if I decide to upgrade to 35" tires, if the shock is adjustable, I can add new UCA's, crank up the height, and I'm set.

Your thoughts?

Hello and thanks for the questions. I definitely recommend the Eibach Shocks for your application. They are readily available and I can drop ship them quickly!

Are the badlands takeoffs the beadlock capable wheels? The 35" tires a great setup for this lift if so.



1. The Eibach coilovers are great since they are cost effective and readily available. They ride really nice and should meet your current needs/expecations as wells as meet your long term goals when you decide to add 35" tires.

2. They come ready to install out of the box at the lifted ride height but with the included spanner wrench, you can simply turn the adjuster counterclockwise to lower to desired height.

3. As mentioned above, you can always adjust the coilover back up to desired ride height when running 35" tires. The UCA's a a good upgrade if you plan on doing any off-roading as they are much stronger than factory.

Hope this helps!

-Dustin

 

[mrbrenan]

Everyone loves to hate spacers, and praises coilovers, but if a 2.5" spacer, in theory, pushes down the entire coilover assembly, and an extended travel coilover has 2.5" extra down travel, they're both, possibly, putting the CV's and ball joints, in a bind, right? I understand the obvious difference between the two components, but in the end, droop is droop, and too much is bad, no matter how you got it. Right?

Typically when you install a 2.0/2.5 coilover for any height lift 1.5" up to 3.5", you're also installing UCAs at the same time which provides a greater articulation range depending on the joint (and corrects caster) - which reduces the chance of binding at the UCA/spindle through up/down travel which helps all suspension components work together for safer compression and rebound. For better CV angles, a simple diff drop really helps to correct or prevent binding full lock forward/reverse under stress. To answer your question (droop is droop, and too much is bad?)... we should never let our suspension get to "too much droop" or shock stroke over-extension in the first place.

Too much droop is bad if you don't put measures in place to prevent over-extension. Just as we need bump stops to prevent bottom out, we also need something like a limit strap to prevent top out. In some cases such as mid-travel or a spacer without limit straps the UCA contacting the spindle is your top out event before the CV will come close to binding.

There is a big difference in coilovers working with aftermarket UCAs, LCAs, Diff drop, bump stops, etc. vs. just a spacer lift with all factory parts. Yes, they both create droop, but they are absolutley not the same. One is under a lot of stress and the other has a larger, safer range of travel.

When you compare a 2.5" increased shock stroke coilover (if that's how your comparing it) vs. stacking a 2.5" spacer on top of your factory shocks - the coilovers win every time. That said, the coilovers still need other parts working together so that you see the full value of what that coilover can do at speed and under compression/rebound.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Body lifts are always debatable and if possible, should be avoided to prevent an increase in center of gravity, especially if loaded heavily on the roof. However, body lifts do achieve clearance for larger tires and can be of added benefit to some builds.

Picking nits here, but all lifts raise CoG and a body lift actually raises it less than a suspension lift of the same height.

 

[mrbrenan]

Picking nits here, but all lifts raise CoG and a body lift actually raises it less than a suspension lift of the same height.

Sure, all lifts raise the center of gravity, yes. The majority of guys doing a body lift also have a suspension lift though, so it's doubling down on the increase in center of gravity which is obviously pushing it. Is it the end of the world? no. Is it something to consider? Absolutely. All I am saying is that you really don't need a body lift unless you're trying to stuff and clear 37s at lock - which if I am being honest, I am not opposed to.... all I am saying is that it's something to really consider for the majority of builds at or around 35" tires. The taller you get, and the more top-heavy you become, the more body roll you're going to experience and the more you open yourself up to a roll on a trail. If you know what you're doing, great. If this is someone's first off-road platform - a body lift wouldn't be the first thing I would recommend.

 

[KompressorV12]

Sure, all lifts raise the center of gravity, yes. The majority of guys doing a body lift also have a suspension lift though, so it's doubling down on the increase in center of gravity which is obviously pushing it. Is it the end of the world? no. Is it something to consider? Absolutely. All I am saying is that you really don't need a body lift unless you're trying to stuff and clear 37s at lock - which if I am being honest, I am not opposed to.... all I am saying is that it's something to really consider for the majority of builds at or around 35" tires. The taller you get, and the more top-heavy you become, the more body roll you're going to experience and the more you open yourself up to a roll on a trail. If you know what you're doing, great. If this is someone's first off-road platform - a body lift wouldn't be the first thing I would recommend.

I'm doing the eibach springs over the SAS shocks for 2.3" lift in front and 1.6" back, coupled with a custom .75" body lift to ensure I fully clear 37s. Seemed the be the most cost effective while retaining ride quality and not putting too much strain on geometry.

 

[mrbrenan]

I'm doing the eibach springs over the SAS shocks for 2.3" lift in front and 1.6" back, coupled with a custom .75" body lift to ensure I fully clear 37s. Seemed the be the most cost effective while retaining ride quality and not putting too much strain on geometry.

Nice, sounds like a solid setup. Who makes that .75" body lift for us?

 

[KompressorV12]

Nice, sounds like a solid setup. Who makes that .75" body lift for us?

Tons of good info at the link below. TLR the factory bolts can be reused at .5" or smaller. At .75" there seems to be "alright" thread engagement for the front two bolts and plenty for the rear. At 1" you'll need new longer front bolts and the rear bolts are "alright". No manufacture makes the thread size and bolt size for the rear bolts which is why broncbuster custom manufactures the bolts. I have no experience rethreading or anything like that plus I didn't want a massive gap between the bumpers and the body. I went with .75" and bought two longer front bolts (just as safety) from Fastenal. The custom body lifts are found by a guy on ebay. He lists in .5" increments so I had him custom make .75" pucks. Double the price, but for $40 you can't go wrong lol. I would have gone with 1" (the biggest to where it doesn't start to look weird in my opinion) but the rear bolt potentially not being long enough sketched me out. Word on the street is installing a bronco body lift is the easiest body lift of any production vehicle ever under 1.5" lol. No wires to stretch, no holes covered (except front skid if equipped), just 8 bolts, slide puck, retighten. 30 min total

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/thoughts-on-body-lifts-with-the-broncos-ifs.40870/

Link to pucks
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333121395772?var=542145150571

The red bronco is with a .75" body lift and the green is with a 1" body lift. At .75" (and even 1") you probably would have never noticed the gaps if I didn't specifically call them out.

FYI The green bronco was able to stuff 37s with just a 1" body lift and the DV8 liners

 

[mrbrenan]

Tons of good info at the link below. TLR the factory bolts can be reused at .5" or smaller. At .75" there seems to be "alright" thread engagement for the front two bolts and plenty for the rear. At 1" you'll need new longer front bolts and the rear bolts are "alright". No manufacture makes the thread size and bolt size for the rear bolts which is why broncbuster custom manufactures the bolts.....

Good stuff, thank you. I like the idea of a .75 BL, maybe 1" depending on the setup I go with. Yeah, I saw those Broncbuster bolts. I was introduced to that brand through my contacts at Velox Offroad. Sounds like they're both doing some pretty cool stuff with the Bronco.

 

[HeHateMe]

Eibach coil overs installed on my daughters Bronco. Rides better than my FE.

Nice! Sits higher than the SAS, but what are the tire/wheel specs?

 

[KompressorV12]

Nice! Sits higher than the SAS, but what are the tire/wheel specs?

Looks like 35x12.5x18 if my zoom works correctly

 

[Smheard]

Correct, had powder coated badlands takeoffs with 33” KO2s and we got 35” KO2’s but the UCA’s wouldn’t work with the wheel offset. My dealer has an entire Ford Performance and aftermarket shop and they had the Fuel wheels with the 35 12.5 18’s mounted and ready so we upgraded to those.
That’s said, if anyone is interested in some freshly, gloss black, powder coated BL takeoffs with KO2’s, hit me up. They are mounted and ready to roll .

 

[Smheard]

Hello and thanks for the questions. I definitely recommend the Eibach Shocks for your application. They are readily available and I can drop ship them quickly!

Are the badlands takeoffs the beadlock capable wheels? The 35" tires a great setup for this lift if so.



1. The Eibach coilovers are great since they are cost effective and readily available. They ride really nice and should meet your current needs/expecations as wells as meet your long term goals when you decide to add 35" tires.

2. They come ready to install out of the box at the lifted ride height but with the included spanner wrench, you can simply turn the adjuster counterclockwise to lower to desired height.

3. As mentioned above, you can always adjust the coilover back up to desired ride height when running 35" tires. The UCA's a a good upgrade if you plan on doing any off-roading as they are much stronger than factory.

Hope this helps!

-Dustin

Agreed, hers definitely rides nicer than my FE even with the E load rated Ridge Grapplers. I’ve thought often about swapping her wheel and tire setup with mine in the middle of the night. The wrath of a 17 year old however

 

[jonesh242]

Q1 of this year some of the Fun Haver parts will start to trickle out. Thank you all for your continued support and patience.

Appreciate the heads up. Like others, I'm still waiting for my Bronco (since March of 2021). The Fun Haver Bronco was one of the first to come out with hardcore offroad bits that I liked. I've got time...looking forward to see what y'all bring to the table. Cheers.

 

[Sitruc_btb]

Typically when you install a 2.0/2.5 coilover for any height lift 1.5" up to 3.5", you're also installing UCAs at the same time which provides a greater articulation range depending on the joint (and corrects caster) - which reduces the chance of binding at the UCA/spindle through up/down travel which helps all suspension components work together for safer compression and rebound. For better CV angles, a simple diff drop really helps to correct or prevent binding full lock forward/reverse under stress. To answer your question (droop is droop, and too much is bad?)... we should never let our suspension get to "too much droop" or shock stroke over-extension in the first place.

Too much droop is bad if you don't put measures in place to prevent over-extension. Just as we need bump stops to prevent bottom out, we also need something like a limit strap to prevent top out. In some cases such as mid-travel or a spacer without limit straps the UCA contacting the spindle is your top out event before the CV will come close to binding.

There is a big difference in coilovers working with aftermarket UCAs, LCAs, Diff drop, bump stops, etc. vs. just a spacer lift with all factory parts. Yes, they both create droop, but they are absolutley not the same. One is under a lot of stress and the other has a larger, safer range of travel.

When you compare a 2.5" increased shock stroke coilover (if that's how your comparing it) vs. stacking a 2.5" spacer on top of your factory shocks - the coilovers win every time. That said, the coilovers still need other parts working together so that you see the full value of what that coilover can do at speed and under compression/rebound.

Thanks for the input. Good information! To elaborate on the different setups, are coilovers not causing any additional stress to any components? I guess I need to understand how coilovers achieve lift in the first place. Preload? or are aftermarket coilovers longer compared to factory? I'm curious because I installed a 1.5" spacer lift on my Badlands, and aligned it myself, using the Hunter rack in the shop. All angles, camber, caster, toe, are within factory spec. I can see the difference in tie rod and CV angles while suspension is loaded, or, vehicle on the ground, but they aren't extreme, though when I had the Bronco in the air, tires at full droop, the CV's were at a gnarly angle. I did notice when the front end was articulating, the upper control arm did contact the coil spring. If I had coilovers and upper control arms, would I not see any contact between those two components?

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