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mpeugeot

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From everything I’ve seen the 72-5600 will work it’s just a weird fit. About to put my order in too. Going with the kicker ks for the 4”. Think I’m leaving the 6.5” alone for now. Still undecided on a sub. I was thinking the kicker hideaway or building my own box for a shallow mount tucked behind the rear panels in the cargo area. Having a tough time deciding 🤔😂
Seriously, change the 6.5" speakers, it was 100% worth it!
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Seriously, change the 6.5" speakers, it was 100% worth it!
What did you change them to? Are you using an amp or just running them off the head unit?
 

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Seriously, change the 6.5" speakers, it was 100% worth it!
What did you use? Everything I’ve seen on the forum suggested there wasn’t much improvement by replacing them. Some even said it sounded worse than factory….that’s with no amp of course.
 

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@mpeugeot has the B&O system, so his 6.5" speakers are amplified. Everything I have seen says changing the 6.5's is great improvement with an amp, not a noticeable improvement on the base system. Thats easy to see when you consider on the base system the 4" dash and 6.5" kick panels are sharing a channel. Need to get those amplified.
 

mpeugeot

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What did you change them to? Are you using an amp or just running them off the head unit?
What did you use? Everything I’ve seen on the forum suggested there wasn’t much improvement by replacing them. Some even said it sounded worse than factory….that’s with no amp of course.
So, I guess that I should have remembered that this is the standard six speaker system (and I have the B&O), so that might explain the difference. I only replaced the speakers on my system.

I replaced all five of the factory 4 inch speakers with Morel Maximo Coax 4" two way speakers and the two factory 6.5" speakers were replaced with Morel Maximo Coax 6.5" two-way speakers.

So that might explain the difference I experienced.
 

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raynaldo

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I just got the [Kicker 46HS10 and will
Install in the next few days.QUOTE="cmcbronco, post: 1178939, member: 18316"]
From everything I’ve seen the 72-5600 will work it’s just a weird fit. About to put my order in too. Going with the kicker ks for the 4”. Think I’m leaving the 6.5” alone for now. Still undecided on a sub. I was thinking the kicker hideaway or building my own box for a shallow mount tucked behind the rear panels in the cargo area. Having a tough time deciding 🤔😂
[/QUOTE]
From everything I’ve seen the 72-5600 will work it’s just a weird fit. About to put my order in too. Going with the kicker ks for the 4”. Think I’m leaving the 6.5” alone for now. Still undecided on a sub. I was thinking the kicker hideaway or building my own box for a shallow mount tucked behind the rear panels in the cargo area. Having a tough time deciding 🤔😂
 

ASlaugh

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napenn78

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I swapped out the 4 4' speakers with Alpines. Bought Kicker's to replace the 6.5s, but when I popped off the speaker cover and couldn't get to the screws, I said forget this. Not taking off anything additional if not gonna be huge improvement. The Alpines sound great.
 

mpeugeot

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I swapped out the 4 4' speakers with Alpines. Bought Kicker's to replace the 6.5s, but when I popped off the speaker cover and couldn't get to the screws, I said forget this. Not taking off anything additional if not gonna be huge improvement. The Alpines sound great.
The trick to the kick panel speakers is to remove the two kick panels (which are surprisingly easy to remove once you know the trick to the drivers side). The dead pedal top needs to be removed and then you unscrew the screw holding the panel in place. The panel in the door jab also gets removed (they all pop out easily with the exception of the dead pedal screw). It's really quite easy after that.
 

napenn78

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The trick to the kick panel speakers is to remove the two kick panels (which are surprisingly easy to remove once you know the trick to the drivers side). The dead pedal top needs to be removed and then you unscrew the screw holding the panel in place. The panel in the door jab also gets removed (they all pop out easily with the exception of the dead pedal screw). It's really quite easy after that.
I broke the clips on the driver's side speaker panel. That's when I said screw this! lol. I hate breaking new stuff. After I get over the aggravation, I may give it a go. Thanks!
 

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ASlaugh

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What did you use? Everything I’ve seen on the forum suggested there wasn’t much improvement by replacing them. Some even said it sounded worse than factory….that’s with no amp of course.
There are a couple of things to keep in mind with swapping out the speakers. The factory speakers are all 4 ohm. Since the kick panels are in parallel with the dash speakers, they are running at 2 ohms per channel. For most systems, 2 ohms is the minimum resistance required and likely the case for our Broncos. That said, if you swap speakers (either set) with something that is less than 4 ohms, you will be under the 2 ohm limit. This is where you end up with some poor sound quality and significant sound output mismatch. A lower ohm speaker will pull more power from the other as well (path of least resistance, literally).
The factory 6.5" speakers aren't all that bad for bass, but a good aftermarket set will be much better. Splitting the front speakers with a Crossover/DSP and amp is the best direction to go. But even with a straight swap, you likely will need to play with the tone settings and bring the treble and mid way down. This acts somewhat of a low pass filter for the 6.5" speakers and brings the output to the 4" down at the same time. Also, the 4" aftermarket speakers should have 300-600 Hz bass blockers on them when using the factory head unit only.
 

5280Bronco

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There are a couple of things to keep in mind with swapping out the speakers. The factory speakers are all 4 ohm. Since the kick panels are in parallel with the dash speakers, they are running at 2 ohms per channel. For most systems, 2 ohms is the minimum resistance required and likely the case for our Broncos. That said, if you swap speakers (either set) with something that is less than 4 ohms, you will be under the 2 ohm limit. This is where you end up with some poor sound quality and significant sound output mismatch. A lower ohm speaker will pull more power from the other as well (path of least resistance, literally).
The factory 6.5" speakers aren't all that bad for bass, but a good aftermarket set will be much better. Splitting the front speakers with a Crossover/DSP and amp is the best direction to go. But even with a straight swap, you likely will need to play with the tone settings and bring the treble and mid way down. This acts somewhat of a low pass filter for the 6.5" speakers and brings the output to the 4" down at the same time. Also, the 4" aftermarket speakers should have 300-600 Hz bass blockers on them when using the factory head unit only.
A lot of great info! Thank you. Couple questions.

-I thought filters were just one Hz rating like 300. Or can you get them with ranges like 300-600Hz?

-Crutchfield had said full range speakers could just go in and not require filters, but are you recommending them to prevent distortion?

Thanks again!
 

ASlaugh

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A lot of great info! Thank you. Couple questions.

-I thought filters were just one Hz rating like 300. Or can you get them with ranges like 300-600Hz?

-Crutchfield had said full range speakers could just go in and not require filters, but are you recommending them to prevent distortion?

Thanks again!
You are correct on the filters having one Hz rating. What I was trying to say is that the range you should use for 4" mids is somewhere is the range of 300 to 600 Hz. Some people go as high as 900 Hz. But in making these decisions, you should also consider the other speakers in use and what their frequency responses are. Some overlap in the ranges is desired to prevent losing parts of the music. To make thinks simple, it is a good idea to buy a component set with a crossover design by the manufacture.

4" speakers should not be considered as "full range." The factory 4" speakers have built in high-pass filters, while the 6.5" speaker get the full range. I put in a 6.5" + tweeter component set and the crossover for the 6.5" has both high and low pass filters.

The distortion I mentioned can occur when splitting the channels to multiple speakers that result in the impedance below 2 ohms. The head unit amp simply can't drive sound if the current is too high on a channel. The sound quality will suffer, and some suggest it can damage the amp.
 

da_jokker

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There are a couple of things to keep in mind with swapping out the speakers. The factory speakers are all 4 ohm. Since the kick panels are in parallel with the dash speakers, they are running at 2 ohms per channel. For most systems, 2 ohms is the minimum resistance required and likely the case for our Broncos. That said, if you swap speakers (either set) with something that is less than 4 ohms, you will be under the 2 ohm limit. This is where you end up with some poor sound quality and significant sound output mismatch. A lower ohm speaker will pull more power from the other as well (path of least resistance, literally).
The factory 6.5" speakers aren't all that bad for bass, but a good aftermarket set will be much better. Splitting the front speakers with a Crossover/DSP and amp is the best direction to go. But even with a straight swap, you likely will need to play with the tone settings and bring the treble and mid way down. This acts somewhat of a low pass filter for the 6.5" speakers and brings the output to the 4" down at the same time. Also, the 4" aftermarket speakers should have 300-600 Hz bass blockers on them when using the factory head unit only.
So ideally then, would you want to replace the dash with an 8 ohm speaker (if they make such a thing) so if you kept the stock kicker or replaced ot with an 8 ohm, you'd be at 4 ohms total....right in the sweet spot?

Also, what happens to All these folks that tap signal off the kicker for the rear sub? Does that lower the ohm's?
 

WuNgUn

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I think ForScaning the ACM should be the very FIRST mod you make to the base 6 speaker system....
This one opened up more range (and maybe even more volume) from the head unit... And yes, to the rear speakers as well.
727-1-1 line... Change the 38xx to 3801
Others have also suggested 3800 works well too.
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