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Catch can needed?

BluePonyGT

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I run two catch cans on my 2017 GT Mustang. I'm dumping a LOT of oil out of the passenger side. First thing I thought of when getting this 2.3L ecoboost bronco is installing one, but I'm hearing that's not required. It's direct injection so why wouldn't it be? I know there's some installing the one from Mishimoto. Are there other options?
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330SMG

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I run two catch cans on my 2017 GT Mustang. I'm dumping a LOT of oil out of the passenger side. First thing I thought of when getting this 2.3L ecoboost bronco is installing one, but I'm hearing that's not required. It's direct injection so why wouldn't it be? I know there's some installing the one from Mishimoto. Are there other options?
Yes, all direct injection engines benefit from a catch can. The top end turns to charcoal if you don't have one.
 

Rick Astley

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Certainly a topic worthy of searching. I suggest Ranger5G as well since they have been running essentially this configuration of motor for the past 3 years.

Sorry if that's the most help i'll give. But the topic has worthy discussion on Bronco6g in previous threads and also Ranger5g. Jump into those thread (after actually reading them) and it helps those become better while keeping the topic live and the threads tidy.
 

Saltlife4shore

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I have a Mishimoto one for my 2.3L. SOB to install, but after 500 miles I got oil and maybe some water in it. Enough to swish around at the bottom of the can.
 

jasonkosi

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I have the Mishimoto one on mine, good high quality product. JLT makes one as well but I didn’t like where they mount it. Definitely worth it to install one on the 2.3 in my opinion
 

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Mishimoto has been making catch cans for both JL motors for a few years now and the results have been interesting to say the least.
The V6 is seeing a decent amount of blow by caught in the can - most need to be emptied between 3k & 5k miles. The 2.0 turbo is seeing almost no blow by at all. Most are seeing only about a tablespoon after 15k miles.
Worth it for the V6 but a waste of money for the 2.0T.
Very interested to see how the Bronco engines blow by compares - to each other as well as the JL's.
 

jjack50

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I run two catch cans on my 2017 GT Mustang. I'm dumping a LOT of oil out of the passenger side. First thing I thought of when getting this 2.3L ecoboost bronco is installing one, but I'm hearing that's not required. It's direct injection so why wouldn't it be? I know there's some installing the one from Mishimoto. Are there other options?
Doesn’t need it. Catch cans don’t do anything when the engine is under boost. There are two crankcase ventilation systems. One for low pressure that feeds vapors back into the intake stream and the other that works under boost and is in the top end of the engine that you don’t have access to that does the same thing but has a more complicated vapor path due to the pressures involved. Catch cans hook into the low pressure system only and catch and condense primarily oil vapors and water vapors that would normally just flow into the cylinders, especially when they are hooked into the vent system after the air-oil separator that’s already there. And only when the turbo is not spooled up which means at the lowest crankcase pressures When blow-by is lowest.
It’s a ‘feel good’ add on that is of no real benefit.
 

BroncoAZ

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Doesn’t need it. Catch cans don’t do anything when the engine is under boost. There are two crankcase ventilation systems. One for low pressure that feeds vapors back into the intake stream and the other that works under boost and is in the top end of the engine that you don’t have access to that does the same thing but has a more complicated vapor path due to the pressures involved. Catch cans hook into the low pressure system only and catch and condense primarily oil vapors and water vapors that would normally just flow into the cylinders, especially when they are hooked into the vent system after the air-oil separator that’s already there. And only when the turbo is not spooled up which means at the lowest crankcase pressures When blow-by is lowest.
It’s a ‘feel good’ add on that is of no real benefit.
The point of the catch can is to prevent deposits of oil vapors in the intake path above the cylinders that will cake it up with crap over time. In a non direct injected engine, or like the newer engines with the additional injector in the intake, the fuel in the intake path would dissolve those oil vapor deposits and keep everything clean. This doesn’t happen in direct injected engines.

I purchased the UPR catch can, but haven’t installed it yet. I haven’t been driving my Bronco, it currently has 45 miles on it. Now that the salt is gone I can start using it.
 

jjack50

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The point of the catch can is to prevent deposits of oil vapors in the intake path above the cylinders that will cake it up with crap over time. In a non direct injected engine, or like the newer engines with the additional injector in the intake, the fuel in the intake path would dissolve those oil vapor deposits and keep everything clean. This doesn’t happen in direct injected engines.

I purchased the UPR catch can, but haven’t installed it yet. I haven’t been driving my Bronco, it currently has 45 miles on it. Now that the salt is gone I can start using it.
The oil vapors that make it by the included air-oil separator (which does the same thing as a catch can except it doesn’t have to be emptied since it plumbs fluids back into the crankcase) are small in volume and gaseous and for the most part, will flow with the intake air right into the cylinders to be burnt, just like they would with a catch can.
 

DogHauler

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The oil vapors that make it by the included air-oil separator (which does the same thing as a catch can except it doesn’t have to be emptied since it plumbs fluids back into the crankcase) are small in volume and gaseous and for the most part, will flow with the intake air right into the cylinders to be burnt, just like they would with a catch can.
False.
 

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BroncoAZ

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The oil vapors that make it by the included air-oil separator (which does the same thing as a catch can except it doesn’t have to be emptied since it plumbs fluids back into the crankcase) are small in volume and gaseous and for the most part, will flow with the intake air right into the cylinders to be burnt, just like they would with a catch can.
Then why on GDI engine did they develop a way to clean the back side of the valves by blasting with walnut shells? I worked as a consultant in dealership service departments from 2006-2020 and witnessed the problems with GDI develop engines first hand. As I said before, Ford addressed the issue on many engines with the extra injector in the intake. They did not do this on the 2.3L.



The vapors you are suggesting get burnt are ending up as deposits on the back of the valves over tens of thousands of miles. Sure, the repair would be covered under my 8 year 100K extended warranty, but the deposits will hinder performance long before they are bad enough to merit repair.

I’d rather buy the catch can than this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembl...nP4yOpHQwXZEV1irvOl5m8n7HrvbGie0aAk6DEALw_wcB

Before and after on cleaning.
32771D5F-47FC-47CD-8394-4B8B0D0025C8.jpeg
 

DogHauler

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How so? What is false?
Oil should never escape a properly designed PCV system, if any oil is present in a catch can that is evidence of a weak design. Some are better than others, but none are perfect.

Oil in the combustion process will cause knock, it is imperative that no entrained oil from the PCV system enter any aspect of the clean air system of a forced induction engine if you want best performance.
 

jjack50

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Then why on GDI engine did they develop a way to clean the back side of the valves by blasting with walnut shells? I worked as a consultant in dealership service departments from 2006-2020 and witnessed the problems with GDI develop engines first hand. As I said before, Ford addressed the issue on many engines with the extra injector in the intake. They did not do this on the 2.3L.



The vapors you are suggesting get burnt are ending up as deposits on the back of the valves over tens of thousands of miles. Sure, the repair would be covered under my 8 year 100K extended warranty, but the deposits will hinder performance long before they are bad enough to merit repair.

I’d rather buy the catch can than this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembl...nP4yOpHQwXZEV1irvOl5m8n7HrvbGie0aAk6DEALw_wcB

Before and after on cleaning.
Ford Bronco Catch can needed? 32771D5F-47FC-47CD-8394-4B8B0D0025C8
It really depends on the engine design specifics, not just if it is GDI or not. Ford’s 2.3 in the Bronco and the Ranger have an included air-oil separator which does the same thing as a catch can already.
 

BroncoAZ

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Doesn’t need it. Catch cans don’t do anything when the engine is under boost. There are two crankcase ventilation systems. One for low pressure that feeds vapors back into the intake stream and the other that works under boost and is in the top end of the engine that you don’t have access to that does the same thing but has a more complicated vapor path due to the pressures involved. Catch cans hook into the low pressure system only and catch and condense primarily oil vapors and water vapors that would normally just flow into the cylinders, especially when they are hooked into the vent system after the air-oil separator that’s already there. And only when the turbo is not spooled up which means at the lowest crankcase pressures When blow-by is lowest.
It’s a ‘feel good’ add on that is of no real benefit.
The oil vapors that make it by the included air-oil separator (which does the same thing as a catch can except it doesn’t have to be emptied since it plumbs fluids back into the crankcase) are small in volume and gaseous and for the most part, will flow with the intake air right into the cylinders to be burnt, just like they would with a catch can.
It really depends on the engine design specifics, not just if it is GDI or not. Ford’s 2.3 in the Bronco and the Ranger have an included air-oil separator which does the same thing as a catch can already.
You’ve contradicted yourself on the effectiveness of the factory air-oil separator. Let’s just agree to disagree. I’ll waste $239 on a catch can and you won’t. If the catch can is effective then good for me, if not then no big deal.

This other thread is definitive enough for me. I’d rather not have what they are collecting get to the intake.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...rst-results-on-2-3-engine.38253/#post-1269920
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