Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[Lak34ers]

Went ahead and had dealership flush the transmission fluid at 36k miles. Came back with report of "contaminated/burned". At least now with the PPE pan, I can change it myself.

Will the dealership install a PPE Pan if we buy it and give it to them? Or will they only do Ford Pan?

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[Ducati1098]

Will the dealership install a PPE Pan if we buy it and give it to them? Or will they only do Ford Pan?

I see no reason why they wouldn’t. Installing the PPE doesn’t require anything more or different than installing a factory pan, so they shouldn’t have any issue with it.
I would certainly do it if a customer asked me to.

 

[Razorback]

Will the dealership install a PPE Pan if we buy it and give it to them? Or will they only do Ford Pan?

My dealership said they would.

 

[malpais]

I know there is a lot of criticism surrounding wet belt for the oil pump. Have there been any actual failures observed?

 

[shift9996]

I changed out all of my driveline fluids over the past week (about 12k miles. Badlands SAS 2.7). I saw mostly the same as the majority have reported. Rear differential was coffee black with a thick paste on the magnet and lots of black residue on everything inside. Front Diff was slightly better looking but still not what I would expect for such low mileage. Transfer case was a reddish brown.

The rear looked so bad I ran a cheap flush oil for 1k miles and then drained it again and filled with Amsoil. It was surprising how dirty the flush oil was. I recently changed my dad's 2500 HD Duramax rear diff fluid. It tows a trailer for most of its life and it wasn't as dirty as my bronco .

 

[Aonarch]

Agree--TBH, I have no idea how you would bring it up to the 206°F - 215°F temperatures the service manual lists. I have never seen my temps hit that even climbing in the mountains.

That is why I check the level at ambient and measure how much was drained.

Then refill to match those numbers.

Then go run errands or whatever and try to get the transmission up to temp to measure by the book.

 

[jh3113]

Did my rear diff, front diff, and transfer case fluids this weekend. Thanks for all the help on this forum. Fluids were pretty dark, at around 11k miles with a moderate amount of off-roading done so far. I also replaced the rear diff cover with the FP one, but used the gasket provided with it so I just used the provided hardware as well.

I broke one of the plastic brake line clips when trying to re-use it, does anyone have any lying around that I can buy off of you?

Thanks!

 

[Sparkherd]

It was $195.01 to the door. The ARB is a good part, but it appeared to be easier to reinstall the brake line with the Ford cover.

I've got the ARB coming this week.
It has a...DIPSTICK!!!
Not too sure WTF to do about the brake lines...

 

[CarbonSteel]

I've got the ARB coming this week.
It has a...DIPSTICK!!!
Not too sure WTF to do about the brake lines...

Review my post here - https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/carbonsteels-journal.86135/post-2133960

At the bottom there is a parts list to replace the OEM studs and plastic clips with longer studs and stainless rubber lined hose clamps.

You can see them in the view named " Video 5 - Cover Installed and New Brake Clamps" (About 1 minute into the video).

 

[Sparkherd]

Review my post here - https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/carbonsteels-journal.86135/post-2133960

At the bottom there is a parts list to replace the OEM studs and plastic clips with longer studs and stainless rubber lined hose clamps.

You can see them in the view named " Video 5 - Cover Installed and New Brake Clamps" (About 1 minute into the video).

TNX Mon!

 

[B22-2023]

Wow, thanks for the reminder! I somehow just passed 20k miles in 10 months and this stuff has been on my mind since I bought it and still haven’t done any, I’m scared now haha. My manual trans fluid was shockingly brown and metallic similar to your transfer case after only 700 miles. Geez

I’m doing my rear diff for 1st time this week pre-K2 in TX, everything else right after. Here is a picture of my 2023 WT rear diff after 7K and heavy highway, local, and off road wheeling.

The 4 rusted bolt heads next to the axle housings have caught my attention at mile 1500 post-Moab and some mudding in CO, now I think it may be from heat generated on serious trail rides and crawls. What do you or anybody think?

 

[LSW]

Thinking of tackling at least the rear diff oil change during the engine second oil change on my wife's '23 Outerbanks non-Sasquatch which is at 7000 on the odo. Not off-roading it at all but it stays in 4A/4H almost all winter.

Question for cold climates: I regularly see -20 F/-30 C in the winter at my location, and unfortunately have to park my broncos outside. If I understand oil specification correctly, there should be no downside to 75w140 in cold weather compared to 75w90, correct? Is the only "downside" to the 75w140 the cost and the ever so slightly reduced fuel economy once normal operating temps are achieved? That's something which I'd happily trade for reduced wear and metal production of the higher viscosity 140. I see people still mentioning that there might be a benefit to 75w110 or 75w90 in cold weather in terms of vehicle function.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Thinking of tackling at least the rear diff oil change during the engine second oil change on my wife's '23 Outerbanks non-Sasquatch which is at 7000 on the odo. Not off-roading it at all but it stays in 4A/4H almost all winter.

Question for cold climates: I regularly see -20 F/-30 C in the winter at my location, and unfortunately have to park my broncos outside. If I understand oil specification correctly, there should be no downside to 75w140 in cold weather compared to 75w90, correct? Is the only "downside" to the 75w140 the cost and the ever so slightly reduced fuel economy once normal operating temps are achieved? That's something which I'd happily trade for reduced wear and metal production of the higher viscosity 140. I see people still mentioning that there might be a benefit to 75w110 or 75w90 in cold weather in terms of vehicle function.

Correct; the number to the left of the "W" indicates cold weather performance and both are 75.

As for the MPG hit due to 75W-140 vs. 75W-90, a headwind, hills/mountains, higher load, or your right foot will have more of an impact on MPG than a viscosity change ever will.

 

[LSW]

Correct; the number to the left of the "W" indicates cold weather performance and both are 75.

As for the MPG hit due to 75W-140 vs. 75W-90, a headwind, hills/mountains, higher load, or your right foot will have more of an impact on MPG than a viscosity change ever will.

Perfect, that’s what I thought! Thanks for confirming. Will use some of the valvoline 75w140 in the squeeze bottles.

 

[LSW]

6800 miles on my wife’s outer banks Non-Sasquatch with advanced (4 auto) transfer case, rear locker but no front locker.

Got it done last night. This was the magnetic rear diff fill plug. I’m no mechanic but I guess it’s good that the metals were removed. The factory oil was very gray. Squeezed in as much of 2 one quart Valvoline 75w140 capri-suns as I could after it I put it back together. The plastic clips were no problem thanks to the thread and videos, a small hook style pick and the smallest flat head screwdriver got them open after a few minutes.

I also did the transfer case with ~1.6 qts Mercon LV and the front Dana m190 differential with another quart of valvoline 75w140, more or less. Not sure if that was right for the front diff oil since I realized in retrospect the non Sasquatch has a different front axle that what is primarily being discussed in the thread. Either way, it drove fine on the way home from my hangar.

Front diff had less metal for sure, transfer case fluid looked pretty good to me. Maybe this was because 5000 miles of the odo were just a highway drive from TX to AK, although 4 auto was used for a good part of it through snow.

I will probably do this on my Wildtrak in October at which point it should have around 3-4k miles.

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