Clutch Replacements?

[skap407]

If you burned up the clutch, you did something wrong. If you were doing everything right, and not abusing the clutch (flywheel and/or pressure plate will be completely burned up if you were abusing it) then it would be a warranty. Otherwise, it would be your dime, possibly insurance would cover it?

It is perfectly reasonable to believe a clutch disk could be bad. Or there could be a dimensional issue in the pressure plate of the flywheel causing clamping force to be too low. But generally, the last two would be noticed in daily driving, particularly if accelerating up an entrance ramp or trying to pass someone.

So acceleration was fine Its really just pressing in the clutch and it feels like it is barely grabbing onto the gears. It definitely got abused on that run I will definitely take the blame for that Thanks for all the info

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[skap407]

I think the Broncbuster guy has done clutch testing and was working on a HD aftermarket one. You could look into that.

Thanks Ill check him out and see

 

[mike8675309]

There is absolutely no way for anyone to "feel" the clutch is fragile. It's a hydraulic system, and depending on how levers are set up you wouldn't notice the effort in the pressure plate at all.
If you are just pulling on a dead load and you are not moving but your engine rpms are increasing, you are abusing your clutch. The 4cylinder and 6 cylinder have plenty of torque to overcome a clutch when pulling against a dead load.
Strapped down to a dyno, a vehicle with 225rwhp and 200ft/lbs of torque could slip a counterforce dual friction clutch when the drums were locked. The same clutch would hold the same car with 450ft/lbs of torque during a clutch drop at the dragstrip.
An automatic will burn up the transmission if you pull against a dead load if you abuse it and it's way easier to replace a clutch and pressure plate in a manual than replace all the clutches in an automatic.

 

[mike8675309]

So acceleration was fine Its really just pressing in the clutch and it feels like it is barely grabbing onto the gears. It definitely got abused on that run I will definitely take the blame for that Thanks for all the info

I don't know what you are saying.
"pressing in the clutch" means releasing the pressure plate and allowing the engine to run unconnected to the transmission.
"barely grabbing onto the gears" doesn't mean anything to me. You shift the gear lever, and as you do that synchronizes to match the speed of the gears so that they can move as you order.

If the clutch were hanging up, say it was damaged and doesn't release fully, you would find it hard to shift into gears, maybe hear some grinding, even though the clutch is fully depressed.

If the clutch was not holding, when you "release the clutch" you should notice engine RPM not matching changes in road speed. Generally, those two should be linear, though it can be hard to see due to the useless tach ford put in the Bronco.

 

[AZ_Liberty]

These modern hydraulic clutches barely have any "feel" as it is. It's not like a 65 where you are shoving on a steel lever attached to a pivot that actually shoves on the throw out bearing.

I'd definitely try bleeding the hydraulics.

Also, given that both the engine and the transmission are taken from the eccoboost Mustang, I'd be really surprised if the whole clutch assembly wasn't lifted from the Stang as well. If so well... this one is obviously under warranty, but upgrading with a stiffer clutch from Summit ought to be doable.

 

[bodean]

Good luck getting a clutch warrantied. 100% going to claim it's a wear item. Especially lifted and on aftermarket 35s

 

[Drex]

Good luck getting a clutch warrantied. 100% going to claim it's a wear item. Especially lifted and on aftermarket 35s

literally no one, including the OP is asking about warranty on the clutch.

If you are going to try to bash someone, at least read the entire post and thread, it might save you from looking like a fool.

 

[bodean]

These modern hydraulic clutches barely have any "feel" as it is. It's not like a 65 where you are shoving on a steel lever attached to a pivot that actually shoves on the throw out bearing.

I'd definitely try bleeding the hydraulics.

Also, given that both the engine and the transmission are taken from the eccoboost Mustang, I'd be really surprised if the whole clutch assembly wasn't lifted from the Stang as well. If so well... this one is obviously under warranty, but upgrading with a stiffer clutch from Summit ought to be doable.

literally no one, including the OP is asking about warranty on the clutch.

If you are going to try to bash someone, at least read the entire post and thread, it might save you from looking like a fool.

Sorry I forgot to quote the post I was replying to.

If you are going to try to bash someone, at least read the entire post and thread, it might save you from looking like a fool.

 

[Jhuff]

I don't know what you are saying.
"pressing in the clutch" means releasing the pressure plate and allowing the engine to run unconnected to the transmission.
"barely grabbing onto the gears" doesn't mean anything to me. You shift the gear lever, and as you do that synchronizes to match the speed of the gears so that they can move as you order.

If the clutch were hanging up, say it was damaged and doesn't release fully, you would find it hard to shift into gears, maybe hear some grinding, even though the clutch is fully depressed.

If the clutch was not holding, when you "release the clutch" you should notice engine RPM not matching changes in road speed. Generally, those two should be linear, though it can be hard to see due to the useless tach ford put in the Bronco.

This is the line of thought I was struggling with myself.

OP, if you are saying that the clutch is holding during normal driving, I am leaning away from a problem with the friction plate/flywheel. Downshifting in higher gears while watching RPMs can help to see if there is some slippage though.

Problems shifting into gears would mean that the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the problem is potentially in the linkage/hydraulic system.

The phrase "Barely grabbing gears" could definitely use more description... It makes me think about problems with the shifting linkage itself.

Or perhaps there is just a miscommunication?

 

[BottleShark]

Good luck getting a clutch warrantied. 100% going to claim it's a wear item. Especially lifted and on aftermarket 35s

I was wondering where Ford draws the line for this. Also, Ford is watching this forum and now is keeping their eye out for a clutch warranty claim in Fl to deny.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

I learned this lesson in my JK: as much as you want to be a good samaritan, sometimes it is better to standby and help the person get help.

I my case the problem was a stuck F150. A ditch wall at the edge of a parking lot had given way, and the F150s front end slid over / was high centered.

Even in 4 Low and 1st all we managed to do is get the F150 more stuck and fling a lot of gravel around. That one took two diesel full sized pickups with 4” tow straps hooked to front suspension and frame, and honestly an insured professional tow company would have been the best choice. Fortunately for me the gravel probably limited drivetrain damage.

Anyway my lesson learned there was law of gross tonnage. (I mean maybe a Bronco with more torque and a lower crawl ratio could have done it, but given what it ultimately took, I don’t think so.)

Also, in hindsight, what happens if either vehicle gets damaged?

Made me think: Next time my risk vs reward calculus will be different. Of course on the trail adds a different viewpoint to consider.

Anyway, good on you OP for helping. I hope you are able to fix your problem for much less than a clutch swap.

 

[Chuck_Ruck]

Make sure if you bleed thw clutch do it on a sunny day long before the 3pm rain storm. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and draws moisture from the air. I went through 3 slave cylibders on my manual 98 F150. The moisture would freeze, and starting the truck, I would blow the slave cyl, and I'd limp it until spring. Which would restart the cycle.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Also, given that both the engine and the transmission are taken from the eccoboost Mustang, I'd be really surprised if the whole clutch assembly wasn't lifted from the Stang as well. If so well... this one is obviously under warranty, but upgrading with a stiffer clutch from Summit ought to be doable.

While the clutches could very well interchange, the transmission is not from the Mustang. Same maker but different design.

The tiny bellhousing necessitates a tiny clutch. It's only like 9" or something. For 325 lb/ft a 11-12" would have been preferable. But as light as the pedal is, a stronger pressure plate might even improve the driving feel.

 

[skap407]

I don't know what you are saying.
"pressing in the clutch" means releasing the pressure plate and allowing the engine to run unconnected to the transmission.
"barely grabbing onto the gears" doesn't mean anything to me. You shift the gear lever, and as you do that synchronizes to match the speed of the gears so that they can move as you order.

If the clutch were hanging up, say it was damaged and doesn't release fully, you would find it hard to shift into gears, maybe hear some grinding, even though the clutch is fully depressed.

If the clutch was not holding, when you "release the clutch" you should notice engine RPM not matching changes in road speed. Generally, those two should be linear, though it can be hard to see due to the useless tach ford put in the Bronco.

Sorry im speaking in laymans terms I am way better at selling them then I am fixing them. Basically when I push in the pedal it is super tight and the catch point when from me pressing the pedal all the way in, to now its as soon as I push it it . I can also feel it starting to slip under harder acceleration. What I meant by grabbing the gear is more of the catch point

 

[skap407]

This is the line of thought I was struggling with myself.

OP, if you are saying that the clutch is holding during normal driving, I am leaning away from a problem with the friction plate/flywheel. Downshifting in higher gears while watching RPMs can help to see if there is some slippage though.

Problems shifting into gears would mean that the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the problem is potentially in the linkage/hydraulic system.

The phrase "Barely grabbing gears" could definitely use more description... It makes me think about problems with the shifting linkage itself.

Or perhaps there is just a miscommunication?

Sorry definitely a miscommunication. i drove it into work and can describe it better now. The pedal itself is very tough to push in now, it feels like a car thats 10 years old that has been beat up. It shifts into gears just fine but I noticed the catch point when from me pushing the pedal down really far to now its almost as soon as I touch the pedal. As far as the grabbing gears comment I meant more the catch point it feels like it is barely holding on when i release the pedal. When I accelarate harder It seems like its almost slipping slighlty because the rpms will just shoot up as if I pressed in the pedal. hopefully this clears up my previous statements.

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