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Comparison of aftermarket 7-pin tow solutions

AZSky

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Can you compare the published here solutions to add a DYI tow package? How do they differ in hardware and labor cost, features still not resolved (like sway control?) etc. ?

When I start reading some threads
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/easy-diy-7-pin-tow-package-complete.65386/
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...scan-as-built-data-without-error-codes.49906/
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...roller-adapter-7-way-trailer-connector.58491/
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/adding-factory-7-way-to-first-edition.34696/
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/factory-trailer-brake-controller-installation-feedback.28232/

after a while it gets above my head. I will need to find a car electrician and most likely point him to a specific solution posted here to give me an estimate.
I have a spiffed up to my needs OBX which arrived without the tow package but this feature is crucial to my needs to tow a trailer with electric brakes. Right now, only the receiver is installed. I am so desperate that I am now listing the car for sale to start anew.
Thanks for your guidance.
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RagnarKon

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Okay... so for starters I'll just describe what is necessary for the 7-pin. There are four parts:
  • Turn/stop/marker lights
  • Reverse light
  • Aux power
  • Trailer brake controller
The turn/stop/marker lights is exactly the same as the 4-pin trailer connector. Generally speaking this is installed by splicing into the factory tail lights on your Bronco with a converter box, such as this from Ford Accessories.

The reverse light is optional. If your trailer has reverse lights, you can connect that pin if you want, otherwise you don't need it. Legally there is no requirement for reverse lights on the size of trailers the Bronco can tow. If you do connect it, it's usually done by splicing into the factory tail lights.

The Aux power is just a 30 Amp 12V line. Your trailer may not even use it. If you don't need it... you don't have to connect it. If you do need it... just have to run an appropriately gauged wire (8 - 10 AWG) from the battery to the rear of the vehicle with a 30 Amp fuse.

The trailer brake controller depends on what trailer brake controller you buy. Some receive a signal directly from the vehicle's modules, some splice into the brake lights and use those lights to determine whether to turn on the trailer brakes or not, some use a combination of the vehicle's signal with a internal gyro... it really depends. But fundamentally trailer brake controllers look at your vehicle's brake lights to determine whether to apply the trailer brake. One stupid-simple brake controller is the Curt Echo. You just plug it into your 7-pin connector and you are good to go (it does need the 30 Amp aux power line I mentioned above to power it).

And... that's it. Every DIY or aftermarket solution solves for those four items. The exact solutions may vary, but it's all fundamentally the same.

---

If that just was all just way over your head and you are uncomfortable with electrical wiring, then yeah... I could understand the struggle. In that case you may just want to talk to an aftermarket shop and simply say "I need a 7-pin trailer connector with a trailer brake controller" and see what they come up with.

You may want to start with your dealer and see if they have an aftermarket department. Just about all Ford dealers will install Ford's official accessories... which doesn't really help you because Ford's accessories only offer a 4-pin connector. BUT, many dealers do have an aftermarket department that will install other components. If they can't do it, they will probably know of a local shop that can.
 

Gtrekker

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Just a suggestion... take it to a trailer shop, simple stuff. GL
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