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0321_Bronco

0321_Bronco

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I added a 3/8" sheet of OSB with folding "ramps" to level out the height difference and covered it in rubber mat. Works well for sleeping in the Bronco on the Deepsleep Overland mats!
20220823_185142.jpg

20220823_185015.jpg
Very nice setup. Functional and practical.


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0321_Bronco

0321_Bronco

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Triathlonfun

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Looks great! Have you noticed any rattle or noise from the drawer?
 

sklnbnzaz

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*UPDATE AT END*

Ordered the Ford (Bronco branded) cargo drawer from the dealer today. Those Ford Pass points covered the cost which was not an insignificant factor in the final decision to go with the Ford box. First, I went back and forth between the drawer and the full enclosure. I ended up with the drawer because I carry more than my fair share of gear and my preference is to organize it. Configurable panels and removable dividers gives a host of options. The drawer actually leaves ample room on top for gear bags, range bags, coolers, etc. I cut the rear rug to size and it's a nice addition. A rubber mat or a piece of automotive carpet would be fine too.

IMG_3440.jpg


Once I decided on the drawer, I did some research. Over the years for me, TruckVault has been the gold standard. impeccable quality, first-rate security, lots of options. They are also 4x the price of the Ford unit! I got to put eyes on the Ford drawer and I was impressed with the fit and finish. Ball bearing slides, clean welds, carpet on the drawer, and a solid lock. Having used the TruckVault to secure firearms, ammo, tactical gear and the like, the Ford unit gives me the same feeling of security as the TruckVault. Nothing is impenetrable and this post isn't to suggest the Ford unit is any better or worse from that perspective. Like a good safe, the goal is to slow down or deter the attack and this box does that, hands down. I also learned from the instructions that it is made by Tuffy for Ford and Bronco-branded.

The install is super easy and doesn't warrant an entire post. Pop the plastic covers off each of the four tie downs. Remove the bolts, replace with the install hardware, set the box and secure it. Super simple. Use power wrench for the 13mm nuts and torque to the specs on the sheet.

BTW, consider removing your jack and gas filler adapter before you put the drawer in. Now this is optional. I prefer a bottle jack that I'll store in the drawer. But, if you do not remove it, you'll simply have to remove the drawer to access your jack. Given that when you pick up that nail and have to change the tire, it will be dark, wet, dimly lit, muddy, with snow and wind in the forecast, choose wisely.

box wo drawer.jpg


After the install, the front 'gap' where the tie downs where is left exposed. It's really a bad look when everything else is so tight and orderly. In the above photo, the (now custom) cover is in place on the left and the right side is what it would look like w/o a cover.

opening.jpg


With the drawer installed, the opening and exposed threads are unsightly. And, the plastic cover you removed doesn't snap back in. So...

With an air grinder and a couple blasts, I removed everything above the lasso graphic on the plastic cover.

Grinder.jpg


cut piece 1.jpg


cut piece.jpg


After that, a touch of glue/adhesive and it looks just like it did before the install!

glue.jpg


cover right.jpg


left side cover.jpg


Once the drawer is installed, it's looks stock, again. Hope this helps someone!

closed.jpg


*UPDATE* So after things settled down and I put a few miles on it. I noticed the bottom of the drawer was touching the plastic threshold piece. Over time, that would definitely show signs of wear. The contact point was very small, less than the thickness of a credit card. I'm sure this is just due to some inconsistencies in manufacturing, build, part variations and the like, but it bugs me.

So, in case you find the same condition or you want to avoid it during the initial install. Here's what I did. Remove the drawer and the four nuts holding the box. Remove the box and remove the 'pillars' at each corner. Insert a thick washer under the pillar bolt and one on top of the bolt (under the box). Do not put two washers together at any point or you'll loose the required bite to torque them down. Four washers under, four washers on top. Set the box in place and reinstall the nuts. This lifted the box enough to clear the threshold with no problem.

IMG_3448.jpg
IMG_3451.jpg


And that's it. Lifts it just enough. Now if you want to be fancy, put a thinner washer on top of the thick one just on the front pillars. That will give you the slightest amount of upward cant and assist with full drawer closer.

Hope this helps!

IMG_3449.jpg
We love this drawer as well for all of our gear. One thing on ours that drove us nuts our first time on a trail was a squeak that originated where the latch hooks. What I did was put a piece of rubberized electrical tape around the steel post and problem solved in 1 minute.
 

tdiddy

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We love this drawer as well for all of our gear. One thing on ours that drove us nuts our first time on a trail was a squeak that originated where the latch hooks. What I did was put a piece of rubberized electrical tape around the steel post and problem solved in 1 minute.
I had the same problem and used the same solution. Great minds...
 

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BostonSasquatch

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Nice job, and thanks for the detailed write-up!

What's the separation between the drawer handle and the inside surface of the rear gate? I have a Rockslider fold-out tailgate table I have yet to unbox. It looks about 2 inches thick. I wonder if I'll be able to close the tailgate with both these installed. Even if it fits, I'd probably put a bit of foam on the handle's outside to protect the two surfaces.
 

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@BostonSasquatch You'll have space. I have the JCR Tailgate table with a bunch of gear strapped to the molle and everything clears without issue
 

BostonSasquatch

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@BostonSasquatch You'll have space. I have the JCR Tailgate table with a bunch of gear strapped to the molle and everything clears without issue
Thanks. Last thing I'd like to figure out would be a simple way to create a flat surface extending the storage box's height forward, over the collapsed rear seats to create a firm & level sleep platform. Anybody have any ideas?
 

EveryDayBronco

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Just installed mine 2 days ago! Fits some firearms nicely too!
IMG_0425.jpeg
Stresses me just looking at that amount of stuff.

Did you say you replaced the jack with a bottle jack? Have you checked that it extends tall enough to lift the front wheel off the ground?

I found the oem jack to be pretty good and there are two different height extensions so if you have a base or big bend and increase tire diameter you would need the taller extension. They're around $25 from ford. I don't know of a bottle jack that can extend as high as this oem jack with it's extension, especially one that fits inside the vehicle. If you actually take the bronco off pavement it's one items I wouldn't compromise!
 

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0321_Bronco

0321_Bronco

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Nice job, and thanks for the detailed write-up!

What's the separation between the drawer handle and the inside surface of the rear gate? I have a Rockslider fold-out tailgate table I have yet to unbox. It looks about 2 inches thick. I wonder if I'll be able to close the tailgate with both these installed. Even if it fits, I'd probably put a bit of foam on the handle's outside to protect the two surfaces.
I have the Ford tailgate table and if fits just fine. I think you have at least 5" to play with.
 

SS Bronco

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Last edited:

BostonSasquatch

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I have the Ford tailgate table and if fits just fine. I think you have at least 5" to play with.
Thanks. That's a few more inches of space Ford could have used for greater capacity. I guess they have their reasons for not bringing the forward edge closer towards the gate.
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