Help adjusting Eibach coilovers

[Solfive]

I just installed Eibach Pro-truck 2 coilovers on a non-squatch badlands. I have a couple of questions about adjusting final ride height. My goal is to have the rear at the lowest possible setting and the front level with the rear to reduce the need to replace control arms:
1. When I’m adjusting the collars do I need to lubricate the shock body threads? If so, using what ideally?
2. This feels like a dumb question with an obvious answer but I’d kick myself if I didn’t ask to be safe…to accomplish the smallest amount of lift height do I just simply move the collar to lowest available thread?

Thanks in advance for the guidance.

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[omi205]

The vehicle has to be lifted before you can change the hight. As in wheels hanging. Not sure about the rest.

 

[PWillette]

I just installed Eibach Pro-truck 2 coilovers on a non-squatch badlands. I have a couple of questions about adjusting final ride height. My goal is to have the rear at the lowest possible setting and the front level with the rear to reduce the need to replace control arms:
1. When I’m adjusting the collars do I need to lubricate the shock body threads? If so, using what ideally?
2. This feels like a dumb question with an obvious answer but I’d kick myself if I didn’t ask to be safe…to accomplish the smallest amount of lift height do I just simply move the collar to lowest available thread?

Thanks in advance for the guidance.

I have the Eibach 2.0s, very happy. As mentioned above, you'll want all the weight off the suspension...jack stands/lift on the frame. No lubrication is recommended...they do go pretty dry and the Eibach tool isn't the greatest so go slow. With that being said, it's easier to adjust down vs. up. I'd recommend first installing as they are out of the box and put a couple miles on before making adjustments. There should of been install instructions showing the minimum and maximum collar adjustments...if not check the website for instructions. You won't want to go all the way down on the threads.

 

[Solfive]

I have the Eibach 2.0s, very happy. As mentioned above, you'll want all the weight off the suspension...jack stands/lift on the frame. No lubrication is recommended...they do go pretty dry and the Eibach tool isn't the greatest so go slow. With that being said, it's easier to adjust down vs. up. I'd recommend first installing as they are out of the box and put a couple miles on before making adjustments. There should of been install instructions showing the minimum and maximum collar adjustments...if not check the website for instructions. You won't want to go all the way down on the threads.

Thanks! Unfortunately there weren’t instructions in the box but I’m going to check their website for them now.

 

[PWillette]

Thanks! Unfortunately there weren’t instructions in the box but I’m going to check their website for them now.

On the rear you'll want to leave 1/2" of threads exposed so that you have the ability to fine tune. If you go all the way down you won't have room to fine tune other than going up.

 

[Solfive]

On the rear you'll want to leave 1/2" of threads exposed so that you have the ability to fine tune. If you go all the way down you won't have room to fine tune other than going up.

Excellent! Sounds like a good starting point to me.

 

[Spooled]

The stock UCA's are actually pretty good. On a friends rig we lowered the fronts and ended with 2.25" lift at the front of a 2-Door OBX and we lowered the rears almost all the way. Alignment was able to be brought in spec with the stock UCA's.

 

[Solfive]

The stock UCA's are actually pretty good. On a friends rig we lowered the fronts and ended with 2.25" lift at the front of a 2-Door OBX and we lowered the rears almost all the way. Alignment was able to be brought in spec with the stock UCA's.

Thanks for the reference points to work off of! I’d rather be a little low than a little too high to save CV angles and replacing other components prematurely. So your guys help is appreciated!

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