Help sourcing wire and cable

[CalvinT]

For smaller gauge wire this may work. For larger gauge *cable* with their limited bend radius, not so much.

It's close enough. You'll probably end up with a little more wire than you need. I always add a foot anyway.

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[Brian_B]

Do you or anyone have a specific recommendation on a budget crimper model? I need to get one for my 4 gauge amp power wire install. Reviews of various models online are all over the map.

Also when selecting wire, another thing to consider is the type of sheathing. Specifically some outer sheathing stinks ... literally. I've got a nose like a bloodhound and have had to return several items due to smelly plastic off gassing. Unfortunately it's difficult to know if rubber/plastic stinks until giving it the sniff test.

This isn’t the exact one I have but I suspect all the Chinese ones are probably the same. It’s all about the dies more so than the hydraulic end anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/YUZES-Hydrau...03066&sprefix=hydraulic+cable+,aps,311&sr=8-3

The one I have works well enough - the dies tend to leave a bit of a tab around the die seem when they crimp but they crimp tight. For about $40 it wasn’t a bad investment and I’ve done dozens of auto cables (and 480v cables for work) so far.

For professional stuff we usually use Greenlee, but that equipment is $$$$ - and honestly apart from the tab doesn’t really crimp any more securely.

 

[CalvinT]

I'm an (all trades) ICC certified building inspector. Picky about my builds, and know a few things about wiring. I would like to make the power point for 100 amps. That's probably more than I would ever need, 1/0 wire is large to run and expensive. On the fence about running #2 or #4 instead.

The ampacity standards for buildings and automobiles are different. THHN insulation is rated for 75C. The wire in our Broncos is rated for 125C.

Buiding codes usually specify a maximum voltage drop of 3% for branch circuits and 5% total drop for feeder and branch circuits measured at the farthest outlet at the rated current. A long run may require increasing wire one size. For example 14 gauge is normally used for a 15 amp circuit. But if it's a long run, code will require you to use 12 gauge. It's not unusual for a circuit to have greater than 100 feet total lenght.

Automobiles have shorter runs. Also SAE standard typically allow a greater voltage drop for a circuit.

So you can safely run smaller wire in an automobile than what would be allowed in a building.

 

[Phil B]

The ampacity standards for buildings and automobiles are different. THHN insulation is rated for 75C. The wire in our Broncos is rated for 125C.

Buiding codes usually specify a maximum voltage drop of 3% for branch circuits and 5% total drop for feeder and branch circuits measured at the farthest outlet at the rated current. A long run may require increasing wire one size. For example 14 gauge is normally used for a 15 amp circuit. But if it's a long run, code will require you to use 12 gauge. It's not unusual for a circuit to have greater than 100 feet total lenght.

Automobiles have shorter runs. Also SAE standard typically allow a greater voltage drop for a circuit.

So you can safely run smaller wire in an automobile than what would be allowed in a building.

Agreed. And thanks for your input. I don't have anything specific planned that would give me set requirements, I'm just tired of tearing all my plastic trim out every time I come up with a new project and want to have a place to land things without going to the battery again.

 

[23_Badlands]

It's close enough. You'll probably end up with a little more wire than you need. I always add a foot anyway.

Not to belabor this, but I got the impression the OP was asking about ordering a made to order wire/cable set. For a DIY situation, I agree it's a no-brainer to add a foot.

 

[Phil B]

Not to belabor this, but the OP was asking about ordering a custom made wire/cable set. For a DIY situation it's a no-brainer to add a foot.

LOL, in my career as a inspector, I've seen some creative work done to add a foot of wire. I've seen plenty of attempts to stretch lumber too. Plumbers have it easy unless we are talking about keeping pipes in a wall.

But yeah, I'm looking for a trick set of cables, probably #4. Something like in the picture. Im also fine with just building my own. Easy enough to put wires in a loom, I would need to buy a crimp tool and it might be cheaper to go premade.

 

[swamp2]

Fitvyhd small crimps both butt and terminals J love my Wirefy Crimp set.

https://a.co/d/fdQNOEo

For larger power cables this iCrimp is great.

https://a.co/d/fdQNOEo

The wire in our Broncos is rated for 125C.

Yes for under hood exposure, typically GXL grade, but for body and interior PVC jacket with the GPT spec is used, either the 80 °C or 105 °C spec.

 

[CalvinT]

I'm just tired of tearing all my plastic trim out every time I come up with a new project

I agree. I've only opened the trim up once. I'm not doing it again until I have everything ready to do all changes at the same time.

 

[Phil B]

I put Armorlite flooring in with a Soundskins sound deadening kit under it. Two days to install, and 3 days to recover. Everything had to come out.

 

[Naiknomu]

I’ve run power to the rear before, and 4 to 6 gauge works well for most accessory setups if your charger isn’t pulling huge amps. I’d fuse it close to the battery and use Anderson SB50s so you can unplug things without fuss. Pre-loomed cable is hard to find, so I usually loom my own. Funny enough, tuning my fiber optic cable production line at work taught me to appreciate good shielding and clean routing.

 

[CalvinT]

Andersons make the rear hookups easy.

Anderson connectors are great. Just make sure you're getting real Anderson connectors and not clones. The dimensions aren't the same. Using genuine Anderson connectors is the only way to make sure you can get matching connectors later.

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